Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output

[Low-Q]

An engine with no need of oil should perhaps be made up of ceramic components which do not expand much when getting hot. And it will stand the heat much better than most metals used in engines. What about a jet engine which runs on HHO?

Vidar

[Doctor No]

The one only proper answer is as above. All our DRJ^s uses ceramic rings for insulation, to withstand temps and run for a long time. To this, they are not 2 cycle, but continous vortex. Had heard probably about Wankel rotary engines? Mazda is also using them for Rx models.

[XS-NRG]

that is either a 4 or a 2 stroke OHV engine.
it's no rotary wankel engine.

[Les Banki]

Zane & others,

Timer and its modifications.

First, a few words about this timer project:

I designed it for general use to switch any type & size of load.
Only the timer, the interphase circuit, a 12V power supply and a suitable relay is needed.

When I first got the idea that a timer would be desirable, I had basically two options:

Design my own from scratch, or buy a ready made one which most likely would not have the functions I wanted.

Considering the cost of a dedicated timer design, I looked around to see what was available.
Even after a thorough and rather lengthy search, I could NOT find a timer which would do what I wanted!
There are large number of timers available (some very cheap) but they ALL need to be modified and require to be interphased with the circuit(s) to be switched.

To cut a long story short: 
Of the large number of timers I looked at, this one (the one in this project ) won hands down!
It runs on a single AA battery.
A good quality Alkaline cell lasts for several years!  (my own experience)
It counts UP, DOWN and has a MEMORY function.

BUT, please note that the TIMER section is NOT tied to the CLOCK function and thus this project is NOT for programmed timing events!
(There are plenty of ready made units available for that purpose!)

Modifying the TIMER:

Since it is not easy to explain (or understand a verbal only explanation), I have attached some pictures which show the details.

1.  Open the timer.  Be careful not to break the 4 ‘hooks’ which clip the two halves together!
2.  Remove (un-solder) the 2 wires to the piezo buzzer and the 2 battery wires.
3.  Lay the timer face down on a flat surface and remove the 7 screws holding the circuit board. 
4.  After carefully removing the board, DO NOT touch any of the contacts (particularly those of the display!) and keep the box in the same (horizontal) position, otherwise all the buttons will fall out!
5.  The ferrite core coil wrapped in yellow tape (and the transistor next to it) you see in the picture named “ECU timer pcb-top” is the buzzer driver.
(the coil ‘transforms’ the low battery voltage to HIGH to drive the buzzer)
It is this buzzer driver signal we need but we cannot make a direct connection because that would upset its operation.
Isolation is achieved by adding a separate winding of 6 â€" 10 turns to this coil.

6.  To add this secondary winding, you need to lift up the coil a bit from the board, or, leave it in the same position but you need to remove enough of the hot-melt glue under it to enable those 6 â€" 10 turns of thin wire to be wound.
(If you wish, you can remove the coil from the board, wind the extra coil on it and then re-fit it.  This way it is easier to fit the extra winding but the whole job takes a bit longer.)

If you have some very thin, insulated ‘hook-up’ wire, you can wrap THAT around the coil and, after locking it in place, (with ‘hot melt’ glue again!?) bring out the ends!
(make sure the wires are long enough!)

One end of this added coil is connected to the jumper wire (to the right of the coil in the picture “ECU timer pcb-top”) and brought out of the box.
This (black wire in the picture) is connected to Ground (-) on the interphase pcb.
The other end of this coil (red wire) goes (through C5) to the base of transistor Q1.

7.  The third wire to be fitted as per picture “ECU timer wire solder”.

Note the black line: it indicates where to drill the 0.8 â€" 1 mm hole.
The wire is soldered to the pad next to it.
Don’t apply too much solder to this joint. 
(there is not much room between the pcb and the buttons)

This wire (light blue in the picture) is connected to C1/R1 on the timer interphase pcb.

To sum it up: 
Only 3 wires are coming out of the timer and are connected as described above.
(If you don’t need/want the noise from the buzzer, disconnect or remove the wires to it!
The battery will last longer!)

The above detailed description might give an impression of complexity but in reality the modifications are simple and easy, albeit somewhat time consuming!

Have fun!

Best regards,
Les Banki

[ramset]

Les,
You truly are a wonderful Man!Our Hats go off to you sir!thankyou for making your vast experience available to us.

Chet