Joule Ringer!

[stprue]

Jesus here are a few of the vid's you were referring to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXI7B0j0Ajc&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXI7B0j0Ajc&feature=related

and here's one I did using a large cap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI3t8JcAfjw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

[nievesoliveras]

@stprue

Nice equipment you have and good work you have done.
The playlist of your videos is kind of slow on my machine.
I saw as many as I could.

The how to make a sec is the one configuration I was talking about with a camera trigger.

Jesus

[lasersaber]

This post is a response to a post from Lidmotor on the other forum in regards to his new video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5CKK_lFoZw


@Lidmotor

Great job! I have seen those same exciter effects on all my units.

Now that you have made a working bifilar coil I am sure you can see why I did not really feel the need to try and give exact specs for making one. I had a lot of bifilar coils just sitting around my shop from NS coil projects. Because of this I had a lot of them on hand to test with and they all worked pretty well. I think I first noticed this "Joule Ringer" effect a long time ago while trying to power an exciter with a dry NS coil. Because the NS coil was made with cotton covered wire the mostly dry cotton must have acted like the leaking diodes because I just hooked up to the two outer wires and left the two inner wires free. Anyone who has worked with NS coils very much knows that they also act like a capacitor. In the end I had that exciter running on almost nothing it ran the tube lit for a couple days on a 650F Bcap while dropping in voltage very little. At the time I did not know what was really happening. So later when I decided to try and get a Fuji circuit running on capacitors alone it was pretty natural to try throwing a NS coil in the mix. Since I had a lot of coils sitting around including non galvanic ones, like the floral wire coil you just made, it did not take very long to notice this effect all over again. It's kind of funny how one thing leads to another.

@everybody
I started using a tip31 and an avromenko plug feeding back to the Cap from the lights. With this setup I can run it on well over 100V input with no problems. The tip31 stays stone cold. I will show it in my next video.

[conradelektro]

Now it runs about 1 minute on a total of 20.000 μF caps:

Using a better bifilar coil on the basis of the transistor helped. The bifilar coil (3 layers of about 70 turns each, 0.5 mm enameled copper wire, on a 25 mm diameter plastic pipe) allows a 25 Volt power supply. The circuit uses about 10 mA at 25 Volt. The circuit needs a higher Voltage (more than 10 Volt) to work well.

Termination of the bifilar coil still poses a problem. Because I do not have any 1N60 diodes, I used a wet paper towel, which kind of works. One end is in the wet part and the other in a dryer part of the paper towel. If both ends are in the wet part, power consumption (and brightness of the lamp) shoots up. Be careful, shortening the ends of the bifilar coil burns the transistor with a bang (also using diodes in the wrong direction).

I found little fly back transformers (from these cold cathode lamp sets which I bought a few years ago http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/998859/KALT-KATHODE-10CM-BLAU/SHOP_AREA_17692&promotionareaSearchDetail=005) and will continue with them (because the big tower coil is not very practical).

Xee2's ideas look very good too. I ordered some surplus fly back transformers (from old PC monitors  http://oppermann-electronic.de/html/fernsehersatzteile.html ZT1 and ZT2).

Greetings, Conrad

[slayer007]

Now it runs about 1 minute on a total of 20.000 μF caps:

Using a better bifilar coil on the basis of the transistor helped. The bifilar coil (3 layers of about 70 turns each, 0.5 mm enameled copper wire, on a 25 mm diameter plastic pipe) allows a 25 Volt power supply. The circuit uses about 10 mA at 25 Volt. The circuit needs a higher Voltage (more than 10 Volt) to work well.

Termination of the bifilar coil still poses a problem. Because I do not have any 1N60 diodes, I used a wet paper towel, which kind of works. One end is in the wet part and the other in a dryer part of the paper towel. If both ends are in the wet part, power consumption (and brightness of the lamp) shoots up. Be careful, shortening the ends of the bifilar coil burns the transistor with a bang (also using diodes in the wrong direction).

I found little fly back transformers (from these cold cathode lamp sets which I bought a few years ago http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/998859/KALT-KATHODE-10CM-BLAU/SHOP_AREA_17692&promotionareaSearchDetail=005) and will continue with them (because the big tower coil is not very practical).

Xee2's ideas look very good too. I ordered some surplus fly back transformers (from old PC monitors  http://oppermann-electronic.de/html/fernsehersatzteile.html ZT1 and ZT2).

Greetings, Conrad

Nice one Conrad.

A variable capacitor from the emitter to the base will help with current intake also.

Also removing the LED( But not the diodes) and replace it with a coil the same size as L2 coil(I use a pancake coil the same as the L2 coil).This will make a big difference when running it on low voltage like one AA battery.

You can also add another tower and put the second pancake coil around it.And collect power from the two open ends of the second tower.

Maybe put the second pancake coil around your bifilar coil.