Practical Method for Production of Water Fuel with Piezoelectric

[ramset]

Powers to be,
Quote:
Water sonoluminescence is extreme power!.
---------------------------
SSSOoooooo......
your saying we can do this??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKPrGxB1Kzc

Now that would be very nice!!

Chet

[petar113507]

Can anyone here yet confirm that Zn0 actually amplifies the production of HHO?  I've got a humidifier that's just begging to be dismantled but would have to order Zn0, so it would be nice if someone could confirm its efficacy or lack thereof...

Yes, It produces HHo.  How much of it, will be determied by determined by our fuel chamber's geometries -- or by the process of "influencing" as listed above.

As for the test I used for that -- I literally dried out my first batch of crystals (they stuck on the inside of the masonry jar) -- and pointed the ultrasonic pond fogger at them, poured water in the 1/2 gal jar --- and I got little bubbles -- kind of like you might see a soda pop bubble up.

This was all the testing I needed before I began making lots of batches of crystals, and researching how to stick the crystals to the inside walls of your atomizing chamber.

As for adhering the crystals:
I have decided to go try an experiment with electrolosis -- if not, I can adhere the zinc by letting it dry out of the substance.  Epoxy, I feel would be a more last-resort way, because of the spring "cushion" feeling of dried epoxy (at least when I've done it).  I think the epoxy could be a minor wave-dampener. If any of these experiments dont turn out well, I will be using epoxy -- but there are equally simple ways to get the crystals to stick to another surface.

Goodness knows I haven't even looked into potential ceramic configurations. 
If you are creative about it, there are no shortages of answers.

I will be likely using folded up aluminum foil, made rough from sandpaper -- stacked side by side, glued/fastened to the underside of a dead CD.  I hope the sheer quantity of surface area, if put directly above the transducer (while in the water) will allow the vibrations to hit enough of the crystals -- quantity is the goal here) (to make them produce enough HHO to make the mixture combustable)

I suspect this will stifle one pond fogger, and not allow as much mist to be produced -- if any -- so I will have a secondary fogger running to produce the mist.  12 V fan could potentially run it into the intake manifold.

This is one "prototype" I had In mind.

Another will be mentioned shortly.

More recently:
I have been diverging my efforts into researching how to get the water to be dis-associated with the ion-wind/air pump.  I feel that if I can get that part of the process to be "good" -- we might not even need the crystals.

It took a little bit of thinking about what powerme meant -- but a TT might = a Tesla Transformer.
If anyone doesn't know -- Tesla coils & tesla transformers can be extremely simple to build if you know how to.

I have been reading for the past few days on all these tangents -- There is a very vast depth to this condensed information powerme is chucking at us.

This leads me to the second prototype (which may be able to bypass using crystals)

The pond fogger, pumps out finely atomized water -- producing HHO, as well as pumping the mixture into the intake manifold.

If too much HHO is made by the ionizer, you could bubble it through a secondary pond fogging-chamber, to "dillute" the HHO gas with more water.  A secondary fogger would produce additional mist, an additional 12V fan to pump mixture into intake manifold.

Making the correct ammount of HHO, would be a matter of tuning the tesla tranformer, to adjust the ionizer voltage, and frequency.  Like I said though, a little more research is needed to understand it (Tesla Transformers, How to build them, how to tune them, Spark gaps, (potentially) Home made Caps / Gaps & coils -- the whole thing, to build yourself) -- but I hope this gives you an idea of the potential secondary "function-able" prototype.

Either way -- I think it could work.  Making the crystals, seeing them produce HHO, have all passed my 'proof of concept' trials to great satisfaction.  I'm getting ready to test a few full setups over the next week.    My buddy who is helping me test, comes back tonight, so we'll be on the ball experimenting this next week.

====================
Powerme, thanks for the heads up about the Dew.  I had been thinking of a way to extract ORME's from the air and seawater (I can see them, darned it -- the little white dust dots constantly moving against the background blue sky)

I have a simple setup in mind which should collect quite a bit of dew.
=====================
Will write more in a bit,
==Romo

[fishman]

Yes, It produces HHo.  How much of it, will be determied by determined by our fuel chamber's geometries -- or by the process of "influencing" as listed above.

As for the test I used for that -- I literally dried out my first batch of crystals (they stuck on the inside of the masonry jar) -- and pointed the ultrasonic pond fogger at them, poured water in the 1/2 gal jar --- and I got little bubbles -- kind of like you might see a soda pop bubble up.

I don't mean to be pessimistic, i think the bubbles being HHO may be a good assumtion BUT  -
How did you confirm the bubbles you made where HHO?
Could those bubbles have been just normal cavitation bubbles? Something other than HHO?

It at least proves that bubbles are made by this interaction.

[petar113507]

I don't mean to be pessimistic, i think the bubbles being HHO may be a good assumtion BUT  -
How did you confirm the bubbles you made where HHO?
Could those bubbles have been just normal cavitation bubbles? Something other than HHO?

It at least proves that bubbles are made by this interaction.

I saw quite plainly with my eyes, where the bubbles were comming from.  It was near the crystal flake formations on the side of the jar, and near a "slush" zinc deposit on another side.  If you would like to conduct your own tests to see if the crystals produce a satisfactory result, you are welcome to observe.  The escaping gas mixture was enough to produce a flickering in a butate lighter held above the masonry jar.

I think using a different Zno substrate may be useful in obtaining more HHO bubbles. (Substrate =  zamak), Or, by adding magneisum chloride to the crystal 'mix' as it is cooking should add magnesium to the crystals.

I have said that the results I have as to yet obtained, have been satisfactory.  I beleive this project can work.  If I beleive that -- What was it that I was looking for?
In considering powerme's tangents in this way, it has been most helpful to me to getting more answers out of his statements, or hints.

==Romo

[petar113507]

This may help you come to your own conclusions about similar problems on this project. 

Just do a google search:
http://www.google.com/search?q=electroplating+zinc+oxide&hl=en&biw=1280&bih=614&prmd=ivns&ei=24CETem7GJP4swOb9dCAAg&start=20&sa=N

Pick off what looks interesting.
Between all these pages, you should get an idea what electroplating is, and how to do it yourself.  This what I had in mind.  This might seem painfully obvious to do, but this is the basic kind of searching we need to become accustomed to doing in order to understand all the information that's here (even in old books!)

Read the search results, and look at what is useful.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plating
on the wiki page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrogalvanization
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherardising

http://www.electro-coatings.com/electroplated-zinc-corrosion-resistance.php
http://nanomatetech.com/Download/Eco-friendly-coating-FastenerInt%27l-2009-10.pdf
http://deltaspecialtycoatings.com/Zinc.html
http://www.btr-plating.com/electroplating_page.htm
http://www.epi.com/pages/zinc-plating

effectively, between all these pages, I figured out there were basically two things you could be doing (along the tangent of electroplating)  These are two experiments I will be conducting during the day.

One process is effectively heating up the zinc crystals (or as it's cooling down from cooking), and letting them dry on a sheet of rough metal, or roughened plastic.  I figure, too much vibration can shake this off.  This has been since true with the substrates I have dried on the masonry jar to date.

My thoughts:
The roughened surface (looked kinda like fogged glass) allowed more crystals to stick in little nooks and crannies -- so there is a small ammount that sticks to the sides.  In the very least, this is the simplest method which will allow me to test the high surface area, alumium sheet.  Not a permanent solution.

The second process is the subject of this search: electro plating

As far as I could glean about electroplating, you basically run a currrent through the water with a finely suspended solution which has some charge to it (in our case zinc oxide) -- and it makes whatever stuff you've submersed/suspended in the water -- get little bits of that stuck on the outside of the metal.

So, I was thinking again -- either aluminum ( cause it's easy to get, from aluminum foil), or some metal sheets from the hardware store. 

Instead of letting the crystals completely dry out after I cook them (I usually recycle the ammonium.  When I would usually recycle it -- when I am "filtering" out the crystals -- I could just dunk them into a masonry jar with water).  Let the remaining ammonium evaporate, leaving a water crystal solution.

I could Then use the crystal-water solution for electroplating it onto sheet metals.

These this might seem a little vauge, or condensed -- if you read the information on the above pages, and then read these thoughts -- it will make much more sense.  I am trying to move in a more practical-application direction.

Either of these two methods are by no means complete, but this should let us get far enough to do some prelimenary tests.  The more people we have doing tests, the better. 

Back to work -- will report results this next week,
==Romo