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Overunity Machines Forum



The Gabriel Device, possible COP=8

Started by Feynman, March 22, 2011, 04:07:09 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.

broli

Good to hear you're still keeping it alive. The toroids by any chance are they toroidal cores used typically in audio amplifiers?

And wouldn't you kill for one of these  :P :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lvm3FGTHSI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-FpeRf3RvQ

Crappy part is that they cost a fortune: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300mmOD-large-core-Toroidal-Transformer-Winding-Machine-/260597933444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cacd8e584

However with the advent of 3d printing we can build things like that very easily ourselves.

rfmmars

Quote from: matthewklinko on April 03, 2012, 07:58:25 PM
Hello Mav, any updates?
Yes here's the best update

David Klingelhoefer, RemeroUK= FAKE

Whats wrong with you people?

Richard

JouleSeeker

  I appreciate the vid, Mav -- very interesting and breathes some new life into this approach.

When you do another vid, may I suggest you take data over a sufficient time that the ENERGY can be shown, both input and output energy?   I found an energy meter that measures down to 0.0001 kW-hr, whereas the Kill-a-Watt just gives down to 0.01 kW-hr.  I found that by plugging one of these meters into the Kill-a-Watt, then plugging the test device into the 2-meter set, I can measure power (W) and energy (down to 0.1 Watt-hour) simultaneously; or I can measure watts on both and compare.  The agreement has been within about 4% comparing meters in this way.   I now have two meters of each type, so two paired-sets.

I would be glad to buy for you and send you two of these higher-precision meters for your work if you wish to try (at my expense of course).   Then you could use one pair for input, and one pair for output.  Really nails the measurement with this redundancy, adds confidence! 
Let me know (you may email me directly at ProfSJones@gmail.com).

Good work!  Thanks again for the vids.
Steven J

JouleSeeker

Attached photo shows the paired meters -- the one on top gives kW-hours down to 0.0001 precision, which I find very useful.  Again, the redundancy in the meters allows for a good check.  I have been using these pairs extensively of late.

Mavendex

Quote from: JouleSeeker on April 30, 2012, 02:24:53 AM
  I appreciate the vid, Mav -- very interesting and breathes some new life into this approach.

When you do another vid, may I suggest you take data over a sufficient time that the ENERGY can be shown, both input and output energy?   I found an energy meter that measures down to 0.0001 kW-hr, whereas the Kill-a-Watt just gives down to 0.01 kW-hr.  I found that by plugging one of these meters into the Kill-a-Watt, then plugging the test device into the 2-meter set, I can measure power (W) and energy (down to 0.1 Watt-hour) simultaneously; or I can measure watts on both and compare.  The agreement has been within about 4% comparing meters in this way.   I now have two meters of each type, so two paired-sets.

I would be glad to buy for you and send you two of these higher-precision meters for your work if you wish to try (at my expense of course).   Then you could use one pair for input, and one pair for output.  Really nails the measurement with this redundancy, adds confidence! 
Let me know (you may email me directly at ProfSJones@gmail.com).

Good work!  Thanks again for the vids.
Steven J
Thanks I may take you up on that offer, but really I need something that can handle super high voltage I found that if I go over 180 volts on those killowatt meters they tend to fryout then I have to take it back to menards and get it replaced go go insurance.
I have been using a 110 watt florecent ballast as input for the last few times had 800 volts .15 amps going in and 120 v 2.5 amps comming out, so I had that device sent off to a company to wind it profesionally, and really get the boat a rockin should have some good results by monday im guessing we will output at least a few more amps since all the turns will be perfect.
the bad part about the ballast is it drops the frequency down to 10hz or so but free is free and there is always ways to store it I have another device here at the house Im going to video to show the anomolies I had a friend come buy we put one of my volt probes in a plant and took the other volt probe to a lead while the device was charged and got 300+ volts comming out of the machine as well the input leads from the ballast have a katty corner effect on the actual line comming off the ballast we have .15 amps which is normal its a 110 watt ballast its not going to output more than that but then if I run the clamp over the device lead that is connected to the ballast it will read something like .75 amps which is really wierd on the return its opposite .15 amps on the device lead and .75 amps on the line going back to the ballast.
so my guess on that is I can splice off those leads that say .75 and run that to a make before break switch and see if we can close the loop on input which would most fantastic. waiting on the switch from mouser should be here next week. Trial and error fun fun fun
Mav