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Overunity Machines Forum



Free yourself with a real electric bike for under 1 thousand dollars

Started by JohnPhoenix, April 11, 2011, 06:12:41 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Magluvin

Just got home. The ride was good. The motor casing was just warm when I turned it off. When it was cogging after heating up, it would be hotter than this.  When I tested the old halls, one was noisy with no magnets. So if the controller was getting noise when cold. I imagine the the higher the heat, the higher the noise till cog temperature. Just before full cog, you could hear and feel it coming on.  Hmm. If the hall was that noisy, that would cause a bunch of spikes off the windings, maybe causing more heat? dunno. But I have more knowledge on these things now. More to go.

I didnt have a topped off charge on it but a full one. Was strong over the canal bridges. It feels just different in some way. Will have to put the speedo back on to check top speed. Im still a bit flabbergasted that my mod worked. Will have to scope out the outputs to see if the resistor is just a fluke or if they need a fine tune. Just seems to run smoother.

Its possible the analog swings of the halls smooths off the switching? Just thoughts before I check tomorrow. I would think what ever in the controller that determines the trigger sig to be 0v or 5v must be just looking at a crossover voltage level like 2,5v. If above 2.5 then on, and below 2.5 then off.  Looking into it to understand it better.

Anyway, I wonder how much heat these can take before going bad. And could the clamping of the trigger leads to gnd help reduce the work load the hall has to do, and maybe less heat sensitive?
Will update.

Mags

mscoffman

The design seems suboptimal. Having electronic sensors this close to coils that can heat up looks way bad.
You might want to look around for a way to use opto's. You could locate the driver/sensors away from
the coils with fiber optics. Use pulsating synchronous detection to allow for some sensor degradation.
The first thing to do is to go with one sensor and have a PLL phased locked loop sythesise firing the three
different detectors by means of a pic micro.

ramset

Mags
I think you saved me some Bucs today as well as prolonged my ownership of an old 1995 Subaru family heirloom.

Been having very odd and hard to track stalling issues while underway and sitting in traffic ,its been brutally hot in the NE USA last week or so ,and car drove "OK" until I put on the AC ,which dumps Hot air right into the engine bay.

a few minutes of that {AC on} and the car would hardly run, shut off AC and I could continue on,   albeit tenuously , was going to Check all connections and Grounds today ,but then I read your Post last night and remembered an odd detail about the Cam sensor
its mounting bracket had a hole and passages in it to assist air flow and "Air" cooling.

pressure washed 250K worth of Shmutz off the engine this AM [cleaning especially good around the Hall sensors ]
attempted to seriously abuse the cooling system, let her sit running for several hours in the high heat which would manifest the issue in ten minutes prior

Wallah.....

she gets to stay on the road ...

However your example of the Bike and how successful it has been In your everyday life is making me seriously consider
some type of Utilitarian [small payload] electric Bike or tiny car build.

That and my part of the USA is seriously kicking around a mileage Tax for autos [bikes and small electrics would be exempt]

thanks
Chet

Whats for yah ne're go bye yah
Thanks Grandma

Magluvin

Quote from: ramset on July 18, 2016, 01:16:01 PM
Mags
I think you saved me some Bucs today as well as prolonged my ownership of an old 1995 Subaru family heirloom.

Been having very odd and hard to track stalling issues while underway and sitting in traffic ,its been brutally hot in the NE USA last week or so ,and car drove "OK" until I put on the AC ,which dumps Hot air right into the engine bay.

a few minutes of that {AC on} and the car would hardly run, shut off AC and I could continue on,   albeit tenuously , was going to Check all connections and Grounds today ,but then I read your Post last night and remembered an odd detail about the Cam sensor
its mounting bracket had a hole and passages in it to assist air flow and "Air" cooling.

pressure washed 250K worth of Shmutz off the engine this AM [cleaning especially good around the Hall sensors ]
attempted to seriously abuse the cooling system, let her sit running for several hours in the high heat which would manifest the issue in ten minutes prior

Wallah.....

she gets to stay on the road ...

However your example of the Bike and how successful it has been In your everyday life is making me seriously consider
some type of Utilitarian [small payload] electric Bike or tiny car build.

That and my part of the USA is seriously kicking around a mileage Tax for autos [bikes and small electrics would be exempt]

thanks
Chet

Usually it is an idle air control solenoid to check first. It ramps up the idle for the additional ac load on the engine. They do go bad. You can usually find a forum that guys give decent tips for certain problems. There are forums for just about every make of car out there.

Mags

ramset

Mags


as I mentioned... Its fixed ,the baking / overheating Hall sensor was the problem , Didn't have to change it Just removed its greasy tomb and let it run cool [er]

running sweet !
IOU one ,It has been an ongoing issue for quite some time,  was a good day to use the Air conditioning

thanks

Chet
Whats for yah ne're go bye yah
Thanks Grandma