best Solar battery

[tbird]

i have 16 (1760 amp hours when new) 6 volts, 2500 watt invertor that handles all my 110v use (not all at once).  also 2 12v frigs and verious  lights and acc (water maker included). i live off grid and no big gen.  my invertor showes 25 amps by itself with computer (desktop), tv, and other toys in standby on.  if i turn on the microwave, amps exceed 100.  remember, watts=amps x volts.  2 batteries are easily run down.  do you drink coffee? do you heat your water for showers?  do you like loud music?  this is only the tip of the iceberg.  remember, on a boat i have to make what you take for granted.  frig and water big demands.

for charging i have 600 watts (1000 would be better) of solar and 500 watt wind gen (lots of wind here in caribe) with a 1000 watt on the drawing board. to help when mother nature isn't helping, a 60 amp alt on main engine fills in (hate the nosie).  don't need it often, but when i do it's there.

lead acid batteries have a given life.  the chem reaction takes it's toll on the lead.  the more you pull power directly from them (cycle) the faster they die.  in your car, most of the power comes from the alt, thus a battery just big enough to start the engine will last a long time (provided the alt can handle all loads).  same with your setup.  if pulse charge will handle the load, you won't need a lot of batteries.  if load is great, more extra battery power is needed. if you can supply more power than you consume, a reg will help keep gassing to a min.  one way to get rid of extra power is to install a dump circuit that when your batteries reach a certian value, charge is directed to another load like a water heater.  seems i always find something else to run.

like all things, there is good and bad to each type of battery.  i like to have the ability to check the acid level and condition which allows for the gasses to ecape(not sealed).  having said that, the caps on these batteries are pretty good.  most come so that if gassing happens, it is first collected there.  if charging is stopped or reduced, then the gas will re-condense and run back into the battery.  no mess.  it's only when left to continue that the gasses escape.  mess and danger.

there is a lot of battery info on the internet.  i did a google search once and came up with more reading than i cared to do.

[tbird]

noticed you just posted a topic for battery tester.  i find a hydrometer very good too. the acid has a specific gravity.  if you can access (not sealed) the acid, you can determine state of charge.  the lower the reading, the more acid has already attacked the plates, thus less power left.  when charged, all acid will return to water making s.g. higher.  if big differences in cell readings, the odd reading cell probably has a problem.  if cells come up to full charge reading, i think about 1300, but don't deliver much power, they maybe sulfated.  this is usually a result of under charging and allowing the sulfer to cystalize on the plate.  usually starts at the bottom and works its way up. the more the plate is covered, the less power available. charging at a high volage (17-18 volts for a 12 volt batt) can sometimes revive them (knocks the solids off).  if not, it's time for a new one.  load testing with that tester needs to be kept to a min.  as you said before heavy loads = hard work for battery.  also high temp which can flex the plates causing connection problems inside.