Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

[NickZ]

  If I were you I would continue with the solar cells.  As it would take about 1.235.545 of these crystal cells to make the same amount of power.  As there is no current to them, and without current you'll see that the leds won't light very bright, if at all.  Once your cells drop a bit more the leds will stop lighting. This will probably take another day or two.
Let me know if I'm wrong...

[triffid]

These panels here I can almost make for the price of food.I dont eat glue or copper wire of course or magnesium strip metal for that matter.I can make copper oxide solar cells which I did back in the early 1990s.They are less than one percent efficient.I see some use of it here in the crystal cells but it is a solar cell(the red oxide).I thought what I would do is make about four of these cells to fit inside a glass jar.Hook them up in series and run an LED off of them.Have a fully selfcontained LED nightlight that I can show off to some people.See how long that would last?




Other question I have is did my elmers school glue did not work because I did not have the right salt sub?


Also did you guys normal table salt cells not work because it had no fumaric acid in it?


If fumaric acid made my cells work would adding it to normal table salt cells make them work?
I need to get some pure fumaric acid to anwser those  questions I guess?

[triffid]

As a food additive, it is used as an acidity regulator and is denoted by the E number E297. Fumaric acid is a food acidulent used since 1946. It is non-toxic. It is generally used in beverages and baking powders for which requirements are placed on purity. It is generally used as a substitute for tartaric acidand occasionally in place of citric acid, at a rate of 1.36 g of citric acid to every 0.91 grams of fumaric acid to add sourness, similar to the way malic acidis used. It is also used as a coagulant in stovetop pudding mixes.[/size]
It is approved for use as a food additive in the EU[2], USA[3] and Australia and New Zealand[4] (where it is listed by its INS number 297).[/size]

[triffid]

test

[PhiChaser]

@ Triffid,
Thanks for your posts, most informative. I read in one of the earlier posts that you want Elmer's GLUE ALL, not the school glue variety you have been using. They have different ingredients apparently.
I still have a few purchases before I can start some decent long-term 'dry cell' experiments I would like to do yet, but I have been messing around a bit. I have some moist potassium chloride (Morton's salt substitute) that was measuring around 0.8v earlier when using aluminum and carbon rod.
Seems like carbon rod would work really well since it doesn't corrode and conducts like mad. Also, the carbon rod was giving me higher voltage readings than using copper instead.
@ Anyone: How much of a voltage drop is typical on a 'salt battery' cell when it dries out? I'm guessing you lose at least half...?
Cheers!
PC