Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

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How to Make Electrostatic LoudspeakersbyMark Rehorst markATrehorstcomcurrent version date: 6/7/96previous version date: 1/15/96 IntroductionElectrostatic speakers are the just about the lowest distortion drivers that can be made. But you already know about their wonderful attributes or you wouldn't be interested in making them, so I'll dispense with the BS. I present here a simple process for making ESLs. I have not included anything about crossovers or cabinets. This is strictly a "how to make the drivers" article. Warnings:Before we go any further, I want to warn you about a couple things you may not be aware of. Electrostatic loudspeakers use high voltages to operate. They need a DC bias of up to 5000 V and use AC voltages up to 5000 V. The DC bias is usually supplied by a power supply running off 120VAC electrical circuits which can be dangerous. The AC voltages used to drive the ESL are usually produced by connecting your stereo amp to a vacuum tube amplifier type output transformer. The voltages produced by the transformer are dangerous! Don't screw around! If you have little kids in the house or if anyone might for any reason touch the speakers while they are operating, design your speakers so that it is not possible to come into contact with the drivers. If you don't know how to handle high voltage circuits, enlist the help of someone who does, or buy one of the commercially available ESLs. Section I: Making the speakersBuilding ESLs involves the use of tools and materials that if handled improperly can be hazardous. Please make sure you know how to use these things before you begin. By all means, use safety glasses at all times. If would be foolish to trade your vision for the pursuit of audio ecstasy! What you need:1) Transformers, one or two per speaker - use tube amp output transformers, 4 ohm:8K -20K ohm. I have used Tango CRD-8 ( 4:8KCT) transformers that I bought in Japan. You can use transformers by Triad, Stancor, etc. Just get units that are good for about 15-20 W at 30 Hz and give a large impedance (i.e. voltage) transformation. Expect to pay about $50 each for transformers. Tube amp output transformers are available from Antique Electronic Supply, 602-820-5411, and other sources. 2) Plastic film for speaker diaphragms- Mylar or other polyester, thin (5-6 microns), and large enough to make the size of driver you want to build. This can be obtained from companies that make plastics for industry- this film is commonly used to make capacitors (don't get metalized film!). I bought a roll that is 1200 m long by 1 m wide for about $85 in Japan a few years ago. I have used about 15 m of it so far. I have heard of people using Saran-wrap, but I have never heard a driver built using it. If you're making small drivers, or experimenting, try it! It certainly won't cost much... 3) Powdered graphite, dish soap, or antistatic solution to coat diaphragm. Powdered graphite is available from K-mart or your local hardware store for lubricating locks. It will cost no more than $2 for enough to make about 50 speakers. Graphite has to be rubbed into the film using cotton balls. Dish detergent and antistatic solution will work also, and are easier to apply, but may not be "permanent". I use graphite. Someone in Australia suggested that drafting ink formulated for drawing on "film" (the draftsman's name for polyester) will make a good, easy to apply, high resitvity diaphragm coating. I haven't tried it yet, but applying a colored liquid ought to be easy and make it easy to verify that it only went where you wanted it. I wanted to park the formula for using graphite here.triffid[/size]

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[jbignes5]

 I have used graphite as both dopant and electrode. In solid form it degreades by fluffing up as salts pull the graphite rod apart. <- via Oxidation.
The elctrode worked very well by coloring paper with an thick even coating. Paper works well and the one electrode can be drawn on the paper. So we have paper+electrode all in one. I didn't try paper, graphite and aluminum. Carbons eat aluminum pretty well. I'm guessing carbon is full of water and hence eats the aluminum right through. The cap cans that I used are riddled with white puffs on the outside. These puffs are aluminum oxide. When there is plenty of oxygen the oxide grows like a mold. But like I said I didn't try graphite so.


Gold or silver leaf should be excellent as the other contacts. I am told brass works very well also.... This is due to the non magnetic nature of the brass. No reaction to current/magnetic fields unrestricts potential flow.


We want to emulate a capacitor but provide a potential to supply it's own current via the diode that gets created from the potential difference of the electrodes. You could think of it as an unlimited cup of potential that we can cause to dumpout and refill from the natural pressure of the universe.

Since all capacitors utilize static inductive capacitance they are the other side of our equation. They must be designed to balance each other while still creating swirls in the network we live in. These swirls can be harvested or channeled inductively and in a one way fashion or (diode) like behaviorism. These vacuum energy (swirls) can be used to provide the connection only of two or more bodies in space. They connect and a flow gets created.

My point here is one is the engine and the other is the gas tank in a way. If we create the tank within the engine you get near instant transitions that are magnified. Paired with the magnetic transistor, this would free up the back pressure and further insulate a direct short of the medium via inductive one way capacitance.

[triffid]

Just a short tutorial on LED lighting and how to get them bright enough to read by.   http://unclean.org/howto/led_circuit.html
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Found a new search engine that protects your privacy by creating no history of where you have been on your computer.
www.ixquick.com

[PhiChaser]

Didn't get to build a single cell this weekend... Had to put in a hot water tank and a bathroom sink... Ah well, maybe tonight! Hopefully I get my alum today. The mortar and pestle I ordered arrived with a broken mortar so I used JBweld to fix it. That stuff is awesome! I also received an old (1920's?) potentiometer that was used to test thermocouples. It takes an odd battery so I've ordered an old military one, maybe it will work... Also got a couple big analog meters but I haven't hooked them up to the switch/resistor setup that came with them. Each one has five or six ranges so I will have to figure it how to hook that up and put it (along with the other meters I have) in some sort of case or board...
Anyhow, nothing exciting to report for my weekend...
Happy experimenting all!
PC

[triffid]

Cute kid on u-tube using his potato battery to power a calculator.Pay attention to his electrodes   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufoOJfzro2c  Its never too late to learn something new.triffid