Safe One Wire energy transfer by Ton Kuiper: Quantum Resonant Gyrator

[samertje]

My replication is way messy, and having a hard time getting good video of it, but....
I have reduced the voltage (the 9v I'm using is 8.83v).  I can definatly say that this is a very sensitive thing to play with, and attaching the wrong sort of ground at the wrong place kills the thing quick.

With the higher voltage to start with, and a bad antenna connection, the LEDs light basically from the source wire and dim as the circuit is moved away.

With the lower voltage at the start, and a couple sheets of aluminum chained for fun, the LEDs are brighter at the end and dimmer at the start where the oscillator feed is.  If I connect my o-scope's probe ground to an aluminum plate also, then a few of the LEDs (every other one, with the one closest to the 'grounded' plate brightest) are bright, and the others are dim, to the point they are almost off at the source.

Crazy stuff.

I've tried to measure a few places with a few things, I basically made an AVPlug with a 1M resister to try and measure the voltage across that, but as soon as I ground either side of that plug it kills the whole thing.

I do have a 1ohm resistor inline between the power source and the oscillator circuit with a scope probe across that - supposedly that's the current draw from the power source, it oscillates pretty well, and looks like pretty well a sum of 0 current to me; but.... oh, right so when the circuit is running (best to remove the high ohm resistor from the transistor base during operation, it's sorta the starter jolt, like a car's starter solonoid....)  So anyhow I mentioned the osciollation visible on the power source 1ohm resistor inline with one side (negative I think), when I kill it that goes to a flatline.

NICE! weird hey? Do you think it's oscillating and giving of radio?

[d3x0r]

Well... It's an oscillator at a frequency range that includes RF.  On the scope I get signal spikes at 4Mhz 8Mhz 12... 20 is strongest, 24, .... so yes, but it's in the shortwave bands (this radio I have has shortwave2 which goes up to 22mhz, but I think it doesn't receive there).  I did have a sports channel from san francisco I was hearing (I'm in las vegas), and there was a background squeel... as I would move around the plates and stuff I have attached I could adjust the frequency, so it is otuputting at milliwatts level I'm sure. 

But from what I can tell an AM transmitter is just an oscillator with a single wire that is the antenna, then all we are building on is inline with the antenna.   (http://www.sparkbangbuzz.com/easy-ten/easy-ten.htm   https://www.google.com/search?q=am+transmitter&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&prmd=imvnsb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=rIQdT62qDIPKiQLTpoW_Ag&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CD0Q_AUoAQ&biw=1517&bih=1031#hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=simple+am+transmitter&pbx=1&oq=simple+am+transmitter&aq=f&aqi=g2g-S2g-mS2&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=2693l3528l0l3781l7l7l0l0l0l4l202l1048l0.6.1l7l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=6b11d7b929de8af5&biw=1517&bih=1031 )

Also, it looks like the smaller coil and the large cap shunted across the +/- rails look more like a DC power filter, but a battery is pretty stable, so I removed those and didn't see any change in the circuit behavior.  I'm also putting a momentary push switch on the high ohm resistor to the transistor base, since I just need to tickle it to get it to go. 

[d3x0r]

The scope top line is a FFT math on the second wave, the spikes are about every 4Mhz.  0 is at the left of the scope.  Added my messy circuit running without the other coil/cap.  (the black wire at the top from the left power rail into the circuit is where those would have been.    Output is at (34)... caps at bottom are parallel across battery, they last for a few seconds, the circuit oscillates for a long time below the level of making any light.  Oh the tickler at (17) next to the black wire is layin there unattached.  The flash drowned out the red leds.

[d3x0r]

Hmm I was misinterpreting or something.  I decided to work on bypassing other various parts of the circuit, and removing the other coil removed the sub harmonics, and it looks like I have a 20mhz oscillator specifically with the transisitor, the larger coil provoides like 1/5th? harmonics.   So I put back in the front coil and the oscillation was more intensense on the scope and the LEDs were brighter, so I've put it all back to 'stock' (other than 85uf caps since I couldn't find the 100's).

[d3x0r]

Having a great deal of fun experimenting with this.  So I had those caps in parallel with the battery, which was all well and good, but I also had a 1ohm resistor inline on the + power rail.  I removed the scope and everything died.  And it wouldn't start, and it was very frustrating.  So I worked to go backwards to get the battery itself connected, and it wouldn't start (I should say it probably did start, but was operating too low to drive any light from the LEDs).  So I eventually tracked it back that this circuit works good with a single 9V, if you attach a ground to the positive (or negative) side of the battery; although the LEDs light brighter when attached to the + side.


and it doesn't have to be the real ground, it can be the same ground that the antenna goes to... but then it causes the LEDs on one side of the diode circles to light brighter.


So my rhetorical question today is 'why does adding a ground to a battery powered circuit, ON the battery terminals directly, make any difference?'  (correction, putting it on the terminals works, but my batter is connected to the expirament board with a clip lead on both sides, and it's better to put the ground on the positive rail on the board. )