Testing the TK Tar Baby

[TinselKoala]

I noticed these before. That's a great idea those sockets TK. Do you have a part number for them?

Thanks.

They are just ordinary molex cable connectors with spring contact inserts. They are made for cabling, but the inserts have a good strong springiness and even though they only contact the mosfet pins on one side, for this light-duty use they hold up well. My supplier has the shells in bins, they come in many different pin counts, and the contact springs themselves are packaged in blister packs by "Philmore" or other manufacturers. All my wires to these connectors are both crimped and soldered; I'm a belt and suspenders kind of fellow.

I have melted them down occasionally with severe service: you will note that in my TinselKoil I use screw-type terminal blocks to mount the transistors; no commercial transistor socket can take that strain, and a mere cable connector can't clamp down hard enough.

ETA: I consider mosfets as consumables, so I rarely solder them in place. I do tend to push boundaries sometimes.... and that's another reason I find all this Ainslie stuff so silly. Back in 2009 I tried to show Ainslie what properly-switched mosfets are capable of.... REAL large "overunity" performance. If the NERDs tested the TinselKoil with their analysis techiques.... they'd see massive OU numbers and no measly steam coming off a hot resistor.... they'll see power that's so great and concentrated that it burns the very air itself (that's what's making the white-yellow plasma in the arc photo-- nitrogen reacting with oxygen to make nitrous and nitric oxides, I believe.) Vaporise solder? Easy, I can even vaporize copper with this thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PXgksobjwc

[TinselKoala]

Hello TK
I'll answer you objections in full - later tonight.  I've been dying to get my teeth into that post of yours.  Right now I'm busy.  But nice to see you're concerned.

Rosie Pose

I'm sure you will post something "full" all right. But I also know... and so do some of the rest of us... that you won't be answering my objections at all.

Do you realise that my involvement here -- this time around -- began with your insane ridiculous "So. Do the math." statement? If you only had not fought for TWO WEEKS or more, denying what I and OTHERS tried to tell you about that bogus calculation... you would have saved all of us a lot of trouble. Had you corrected your error and retracted the claim based on it at that point, I probably would have walked away and let you alone to hang yourself in peace. But NO....you did exactly what you ALWAYS DO in that situation.... you do NOT acknowledge or correct your errors, and you STILL HAVE NOT TO THIS VERY DAY.

So everything you are getting from me, this whole affair... is your own doing, because you are WILFULLY IGNORANT and overweeningly ARROGANT, plus you are a baldfaced liar to boot.

[picowatt]

TK,

Thanks for the Vbatt scope shots.

If you have the time, I would suggest that you try to decouple across the batteries with whatever caps are required to show no AC across the full battery string.  You could do this with a paralled electrolytic and ceramic(s) directly across the most negative and most positive battery terminals.  Arrange the batteries so that the cap leads can be as short as possible.  Use as many caps as necessary to eliminate all AC.  If this squelches the oscillation, you may have to add a bit more wire between the Batt+ and your circuit board to add some inductance.  Scope between ground at the batteries and the most positive terminal to verify you have all or most of the AC decoupled/bypassed.  The object is to eliminate all observed AC at the batteries while maintaining oscillation.

If you can decouple the batteries as above and still maintain oscillation, do a quick check to verify you still have the negative wattage (current) component.  Now, place a 1R resistor between the Batt+ and the decouple caps (the end of the added caps that went to the Batt+).  Check again with the scope to make sure that no AC is observed at either end of the 1R resistor.  If a bit of AC is now seen at the caps/1R junction, add more caps as necessary in parallel with the previous decoupling caps.

If all has gone well up to this point, place a DC voltmeter across the 1R resistor and note the indicated polarity/magnitude.

Hopefully you see where I am going here..

I know its asking a lot, but if all goes well the results could be quite interesting and much faster than rundown tests.

The usual disclaimer applies, i.e., you've already done so much I hate to ask more...

PW

[TinselKoala]

@PW: Sure, I see exactly where you are going. My bulbs aren't quite _that_ dim !.....   

But today I'm going outside and setting up the TinselScope to take a look at old Sol. It's beautifully clear and might be so tonight as well. I've been missing some observing time at night because of all this present nonsense but if it's clear tonight I hope to get this season's first glimpse (for me) of Saturn. Mars, too, is presenting beautifully right now but is heading westward and will be setting earlier and earlier. The idiot city has started leaving lights on all night at the tennis courts at the park two blocks north.... and that kills my best galaxy viewing. I don't know how it will affect astrophotography yet... perhaps we'll see tonight if it stays clear and dry.

Stay tuned... when Rosemary wakes up there will be a lot more bold red stuff coming "with respect".

BTW.... has your "slow boat" full of mosfets arrived yet?

ETA: This test might have to wait until tomorrow. My running batteries have just now dropped a hair below 12 volts each no-load. So it's time for a Dim Bulb Test against the set-asides that were charged at the same time five or six days ago. Then I have to do a recharge and that will take overnight for all six batteries.

[MileHigh]

TK:

With some of your recent experiments with the oscillations running (let's assume 'negative' power) you had an in-line digital ammeter and an in-line analog ammeter showing that there was a net DC current flowing out of the batteries.  Correct?

PW:

Assuming the above is true, what is the rationale for your proposed experiment?

Rosemary:

My suggestion is that before you embark on a big grandiose testing program that you do a few basic tests yourself first.  Assuming that what I state above is true, then you should do the following:  Get some small batteries like TK has.  Get the oscillations going and show negative average computed power on your DSO.  Then put a multimeter set to measure current flow inline with the circuit.   What you should see is that the computed power on the DSO is still negative and the multimeter is clearly indicating that the batteries are discharging.  I am assuming that the NERDs never did this simple test.

Then do your standard test:  Charge all six small batteries.  Put two aside and use the other four to run your setup in negative oscillation mode for a few days.  Then do the dim light bulb test with all six batteries at the same time.  Repeat the test two more times where each time you recharge and shuffle the batteries.

The digital multimeter set to measure current flow is showing you that the batteries are discharging, not withstanding that your DSO is computing negative average power in negative oscillation mode.  If you did three test runs yourself before trying to engage academics and others you won't end up being embarrassed.

MileHigh