Joule Lamp

[JouleSeeker]

Peanutbutter asked a question over at EF -- may be helpful to post here, as this is where I plan to post on this subject in the future/  Here's my post over there, then:

@Peanutbutter -- you assumed incorrectly, but let me clarify:

Peanutbutter:

To first put aside the shown proven calibration variation (10-15Lu/w) between bulbs and just run with the above shown calibration (for all bulbs ever made), we end up with;

5480 Lux x [SIZE="4"].0793[/SIZE] = 434.5 Lumens (said 550)
434.5 Lumens / 6.018w = 72.2 Lu/W (said 95)

Above is using only Prof's conversion factor and Prof's shown numbers. This calibration was HIGHLY defended,[SIZE="4"] so I assume it's the same.[/SIZE] Again, we know calibration varies in favor of daylights; relative to warm white calibration with incandescent or compacts.

I have said (and further it seems rather obvious) that the calibration factor depends on the number of bulbs and will change when more bulbs are used.


Thus, the 0.0793 factor applies only for ONE bulb in this light box.  In the vid, I clearly say - and show inside the box - that FOUR bulbs are used!  so the calibration factor is NOT .0793 as you assumed.

I could leave it there, but you sort of asked, so I will note here that for four bulbs, I of course did the calibration, and the calibration factor for 4 bulbs in the positions shown is 0.103, so we have:

5480 Lux x 0.103 = 564 Lumens
564 Lumens / 6.018w = 94 Lu/W

I said 95 Lu/W because on run I did before making the vid, I had 5530 lux --> 570 Lumens, and
570 Lumens / 6.018w = 95 Lu/W (rounding).

Note that this small variation (94 or 95) is within the uncertainty (quite small) from run to run -- things are repeatable!  Again, that video is here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz2osV3NRDQ&feature=youtu.be

Hope this helps!

[Lynxsteam]

I think what Nikola Tesla was trying to teach us 100 years ago is that work can be accomplished with "Brute Electrical Force"  amps x volts, or by a more elegant form - voltage x frequency.    Its hard for us to view things in a different way from what we have all been taught about watts being amps x volts.  Motors and resistive loads need watts, but light has a frequency component.

Joule Seeker - can you try another experiment with the Cranberry LJL aircore?  I really want to see if we can get the same astounding results on 12 volts.  I assume you were using the full 107 primary turns.  Can you try 75 turns primary and 12 - 12.8 volts?  That should provide the same step up factor.

Thanks

[NickZ]

  If the 12volt version of the Cranberry air-coil is made, Please give us at least an idea on what the wire lenghts are, wire guage, and dimension of the pvc tube its mounted on, and type,  so it can be easily replicated. And the best circuit used on it,so far.
 
  I just made the "6 garden light solar panel" set up like Hitman used on his videos,  And so I am working on that replication now.
  I'm still wondering how long the charge on his little 6 volt battery lasts under the load of the 10  2 watt Led bulbs.  Might only be a few minutes?

  I'm using a 12 volt 4.5 ah LAB, connected to 6 solar cells, and all connected to my version of the Slayer Exciter set up, so it's now becoming a 12 volt Solar JT Exciter.
Total voltage output from the small series connected solar panels, is 15 volts, 30 mAs, for now. Not much current, but my Exciter will run on that, and even lower current.
I may have to add a couple more solar cells to that, to get higher current output.
  Just wanted to see if I can get close to Hitmans results, which to me are also pretty amazing.

I would like to make the Cranberry air-core, also.  I'll make that project into an actual Joule Lamp, too, to connect that to my Exciter type system.  Why?
Because I feel that once a strong main Exciter Oscillator coil (like magnetmans Exciter made into a lamp) is set up and working well,  almost any amount of additional lights can be run off of it, on Av plugs from a one wire connection, to run almost any amount of lights needed. I'm thinking about a very high-gain field Exciter, running off of 24 volt,  solar.
To what degree one can just keep adding more lights, is still to be seen. Maybe adding more lights will also work here, as it's seen that adding more leds can increases the light intensity on the Exciter circuits, as well. As the load is part of the "open" circuit pulling in ambient energies. But, possibly without the 5 to 10 bulb limit, that the direct wired closed connection to the oscillators transistor seems to be limited to.

  So,  the air-core has been having the best results? Even over those that were obtained from the E-cores, the 110-220v to 12v  iron transformers, and lastly the toroid air core???
   The cranberry air-core is the up to now all time output lm/w winner???  Great!

  Let me know if I got this all backwards, as my head is still spinning from watching all the different tests you are all doing, as well as others that are all going on now.
                                                                   
  NickZ

[Lynxsteam]

Since making the "Cranberry" LJL  I made some improvements that dropped amp draw 8% more on the "Licorice" model.  So if I detailed the specs and materials today they might change tomorrow.  As Joule Seeker records data we now are learning more about what changes cause what effects.
 
The Cranberry uses 736 turns on the secondary of 20 awg Essex magnet wire.  The primary is opposite wound 14 awg red insulated stranded wiring like you would use in a house, and full length is 107 turns.  Its on a 1- 1/2" PVC 14" long, using 13" of the PVC for the turns.  It uses just the 2N3055 as in Laser Saber's JR2.0.
It could be that more turns of 24 awg magnet wire would be better.  There are some insulating properties I am working through, and matching to the most efficient bulbs will take a bit more time.

But if you want to get started those are the main ingredients and you could start tweaking things yourself.
Keep in mind a couple weeks ago I was using 2.4 amps, and as I have made changes have it down to 1.21 amps for six 7.5 watt bulbs.  Joule Seeker's addition of the ferrite rod was the big breakthrough.  It allows the aircore to still act like an aircore but with nice efficiency.

It could be a smaller or bigger diameter PVC tube would be better.  Various shapes of ferrite might be better.  Could be that longer or shorter is better.  Rather than replicating you may want to try something a little different and find a better way to do this.

As is, this is a simple and convenient way to light a couple rooms with solar and a 12 volt battery.  It starts nice and is very robust.  The original size that was posted here originally is one of my best.  I think it is modified with 1360 turns and 150 turns. 

What some experimenters are doing is to find the highest efficiency which is important work, but not essential for lighting a few rooms right now.  Considering that solar is free, if your system is a little less efficient, so what?  Sometimes a solar controller just shunts power away to a dump load because the battery is full.  Any solar energy impinging on earth is here whether we use it or not.

[NickZ]

  Thank you for all that info... I will refer to it, when making the Cranberry, although I may have to name mine something like the "Mango Version", or something like that.
Here's a picture of someone that needs light in his hut, (picture below). No noddle pack.

   Today I'm noticing that while trying to make some light by using the recycled CFL's indoor lamp light. Which is being pick-up by my 6 garden light solar cells indoors.
Although that does work, the 13 watt Cfl's grid source light output is still rather weak. As that CFL light hitting a small garden light solar panel, of that artificial light coming from a Cfl bulb is less than a 1/10 as useful ( 2 mAs) in producing current through solar cells. Compared to the natural sunlight which gives 30 mA on each of my little cells, (compared to only 2mA) that is picked up from the 13 watt CFL bulb. with the bulb right on top of the cell, almost touching the solar cell. Imagine the light intensity several feet away.
  I can see the deficiencies that living under mostly CFL, or even Leds, can cause.  As the light from Cfls and possibly leds is not of a warmer full spectrum current carrying type, like sunlight is.   Led light is are more like,  moonlight.

  So, it may not just be about the volts and watts, and "frequency" in these circuits.  There may also be another one of those allusive little things hidden in there, to have to look into to understand.

  I think that to messure led bulb light intensity at a DISTANCE, is very important (6 to 8 feet away). As that kind of artificial Led light has a brightness intesity loss factor,  (with distance from the source), that is different and much more pronounced than found when using  incandescent bulbs.  So, for a truer comparison of Led to incandescent bulbs outputs, comparing their  "light quality"  not just light intensity, especially at "useable distances from their source", like 6 to 8 feet, would also be useful.   
The golden light that the  incandescent bulbs produce, seams to go further away from the source, to light up a room with an even, warm pleasant spread out,  kind of fire light quality to it.   Yes, I still love it...
   Now the warm white/cool white led bulbs are getting closer to natural sunlight, but are they?  What about the quality of the light from the different led bulbs tested, any favorites???    Like, what is also the  "Best Quality" light, for the buck?  Not only just the brightest, that may be so bright you can't even look at it....     It was so bright, but, no one could stand it...    Dimmers?

   NickZ