Joule Lamp

[JouleSeeker]

  Here's the vid that goes with the air-core device above:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOwsEKN4S8Q&feature=channel&list=UL

Note the primary coil, the secondary, and a tertiary coil for pick-up... interesting stuff. 

[JouleSeeker]

  If we can run with incandescent bulbs on the output, or something that predominately puts out more heat than light, we can use the water-calorimetric method.  Let me describe a bit more fully:

Don Smith Device Project Part 31: 3 Watts In, 20 Watt Halogen Lit Bright - YouTube

So just throw it in a glass of water? It does heat up MAJOR so ok, i'll try that, hey what is the heat formula? anyone know off hand?

  Chet has a good idea here.  If I may make a few suggestions...  I've done many of these water-heating studies (mostly when I was working with Davey-Sonic-Bell devices).

1.  The heat formula for water is:
Eoutput = Qheating = 4.186 J/g-degC * mass of water heated * (Tfinal - Tinitial)

2.  and for water vaporized, we have:
Qvaporization = 2260 J/g * mass of water vaporized.

To keep it simple, keep the water well below "steaming" temp so you don't have to worry (much) about vaporization.  So you just use equation 1.

3. Suggest you use distilled water.  Tap water is much more conductive; it also can leave a residue upon evaporation.

4. Measure the temperature (Tfinal and Tinitial) in Centigrade with a reliable device, such as this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/TM-902C-K-Type-Digital-Thermometer-Thermocouple-Probe-/170858632394?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c7f7d4ca
-- a Type-K digital thermometer over a measured time interval (several minutes at least).  Suggest using a styrofoam or other plastic container, thus insulated to slow down heat transfer to the environment.  And be sure to stir the water right after the run-time (e.g. with a plastic spoon), and let the temp-probe come to a stable temp (several seconds).

5.  If someone gets to the stage where he/she could replace the output-light-bulbs with a heating element ready to immerse in water, this would be better in the calorimeter -- all heat output (no light).  I have an extra heating-element (R = 54 ohms); would be glad to send this on to the willing experimenter.

6.  Example.  We wish the actual output energy by measuring the heating of water for the or heating element immersed in water, and then the average output power is the Energy/Time interval.  Say we use 100g (100ml) of distilled water in a styrofoam container (e.g. large cup) and the water heats up 5.4 degrees C in 4.0 minutes.  (For more accuracy, paint the container black on the inside to absorb the emitted light.)

Then the output energy and power for this example are:

Eoutput = 4.186 J/g-degC * 100g * (5.4deg-C) = 2260 Joules,

and the average power output is:
Pout = Eoutput/Time-interval = 2260J/240seconds = 9.4 Watts.

Ah, that's so nice to have that number (for the actual device!).  We can do a bit better later; this is QUITE GOOD for now!!

The efficiency is Pout/Pin ...  :cheers:

[Lynxsteam]

Below is a schematic of the LJL 5.0.  I have moved through many stages of development gaining brightness from the bulbs and reducing power with each step.  I will send this design off for testing this week, but wanted to get the design out there for you to replicate and independently test.
The proportions and turns ratio are important.  You can make a smaller version with 30 awg 5" long, bell wire primary, total turns secondary 1100, primary 110.

The advantages of this newest version are multiple bulbs up to 3 amps, high brightness, dimmability power saving mode, no ringing, can run continuously with correctly sized 12 v solar panel.

I will post a "how to" video soon.  The are some simple ways you can wind these coils very quickly without special tools.  Wiring them up is straight forward and fairly simple.

[Lynxsteam]

Larger version

[JouleSeeker]

Thanks for posting these schematics, Lynxsteam!

I also much enjoyed your latest vid...  I have a question, though -- how did you manage to light two bulbs with just a small 9V battery running your LJL?  They seem very bright for the current and voltage which a 9V battery can deliver (considering internal resistance) - any further explanation for how you did it?