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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Lamp

Started by Lynxsteam, May 11, 2012, 01:26:52 AM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Lynxsteam

Great Links B-rads, Nick Z!  Tough to beat those LEDs for $1.50, and I have used that solar charger, it is very good and well worth the $$.

Seems like the forks in the road are these:
1.  DC power 12 v, no mods
2.  DC pulsed 12 v - to see if power draw can be dropped without damaging bulb circuitry
     I think an aircore or transformer could be used in much the same way as LaserSaber's design but with about a 1:1 ratio of turns, and rectify the output for 12 v bulbs.  If we can pulse or chop the DC it might reduce power draw and still give off the same light.  The flyback will be high voltage but perhaps a capacitor can smooth the ripple.
3.  DC/AC convert for powering multiple bulbs using the AirCore (my main interest)
4.  DC/AC convert for powering multiple bulbs using E-Core or RS transformer (that area is being covered pretty well over at EF)

I am glad my house grid watt draw was looked at by someone else.  It was puzzling to me that a 7.5 watt bulb would pull 15-20 watts off 120 v AC.  Unfortunately my other watt meter isn't showing a screen.  I will use a clip on amp meter.

I am excited about the many improvements I have made to the Aircore.  I just want JouleSeeker to confirm if I am right and the results are significant.  I can't wait to share the changes, just want to make sure.  He should receive the newest LJL Wednesday.  Then I made another significant change after shipping to him.  I wish you guys lived next door, we would have this done a lot quicker.


NickZ

  Just thought to add, that the 10 watt solar panels are only $10 more than the 5 watt ones. So, they are even more cost effective, and can be used to light more bulbs.
 
  10watt solar panel Mono crystalline 12v charge batteries Rv marine | eBay

Lynxsteam

The weirdest thing!

My watt meter, which I have used often and I trust, doesn't register CFLs or LEDs correctly.  But correctly with a DMM amp setting?

For a 14 watt CFL I get 40 watts on the watt meter, with an amp meter I get .115 amps x 120 volts = 13.8 watts
For the Utilitech Pro 7.5 I get 16 watts on the watt meter, but .072 amps X 120 v = 8.64 watts
For the Phillips 3 watt LED I get 8.4 watts on the watt meter, but .022 amps x 120 v =2.64 watts
For a 40 watt incandescent I get 37 watts on the watt meter, but .315 amps x 120  v = 37.8 watts  close to the same!
For a 60 watt incandescent I get 59 watts on the watt meter, but .502 x 120 v = 60.24 watts close to the same

So why does the watt meter register motors, incandescent and the toaster correctly but not CFLs or LEDs?  Does the circuitry in these bulbs mess with the inductive sensor on the Watt meter?

SeaMonkey

The various types of AC wattmeters have limitations to
their accuracy.  Particularly when dealing with non-
sinusoidal waveshapes and reactive circuits.

The Wikipedia article
is fairly comprehensive.



b_rads

@SeaMonkey:
Great to see you here and your input is most welcome.  For those of you who have not had a chance to interact with SeaMonkey, he is a very valuable contributor.   8)

Last night a thunderstorm ripped through and knocked out the power for a little over three hours in my neighborhood.  My first true test of several of the lighting systems I have built.  Master bedroom and bath lit by the small 12v 5AH and 4 of the SMD modules.  Family room lit with the LJL and 4 - 7.5 watt LED bulbs.  Kitchen and dining room used various mini joule ringers and joule thief lights.  12 Volt battery with 200 watt inverter powered box fan and laptop.  After much lighthearted teasing from the missus, I was a hero for about three hours last night.  What a wonderful feeling to know I have choices in a situation like that.

Brad S   :)