Joule Lamp

[Lynxsteam]

Jbignes5,

That is a different application which is why I haven't jumped on it.  If you are running different numbers of LEDs it might not work as well.  But if you parallel all LEDs it shouldn't be an issue.  Lets think, if you parallel all LEDs you need about 3.5-3.9 volts.  What voltage will you run?  Is it 12 volt?  You aren't running 120 volt bulbs like we are doing.
If this is 12 volt then you need a step down transformer.
If your primary is 90 turns and your secondary is 30 it should be fine.  The voltage spikes will be higher than 4 volts but will be absorbed by the LEDs as amps.
Look back in this thread and see the LJL Mini.  I would make something like that but use bell wire or CAT5 wire for the primary and secondary.  One layer of secondary, 30 turns, 3 layers of primary, 30 turns each.  You may also want to wind this on a Torroid or one of those snap together ferrite chokes.
Build the circuit as usual and tie the main power into your ignition switch "run" position.
Then feed the secondary output to all your light switches.  You may need to have at least a couple of LEDs running somewhere (tail-lights) all the time so the circuit is oscillating.

In modern cars the LEDs are configured in series so they run off the normal voltage.  I think they use 6 in a string for 12 volts.  Check the LED package.  Reds run on lower voltage than whites, yellows, blues....

[JouleSeeker]

Joule Seeker,

Thank you for doing the testing.  While some of us are after new heights in lumens/watt, I am more interested in brightness using what I gather from the solar panel.  Considering I am using and converting energy that would heat a 2' x 3' rectangle of my shingles each day, I would rather get good brightness from my circuit.  I don't mean that to be a slight.  I am very excited that with this same circuit we can get some outstanding efficacy.  But I would have been disappointed if while attaining efficiency the light given off was paltry.
One last question.  How does the "Blackberry" performance compare to total lumens using grid power?  And lumens/watt using grid power?

The light emitted is substantial, as we see by comparing the performance using grid power.
Using the grid -mains - at 120 VAC, with the same 6 corn-cob LED bulbs in the same light-box, I measure:

120VAC  3.5 W  407 lumens   116 Lm/W -- which is essentially the same Lm/W as using the LJL (both cranberry and blackberry versions reach 114 Lm/W) -- using the ferrite rods.  This suggests to me that the device is probably not OU; since the Lm/W is essentially the same with the LJL or with the grid.

Without the ferrite rods, the Lm/W goes down, but the total lumens goes way up:
Blackberry  gives 1130 Lumens @ 12.8 V (air core), 13.2 W,  86 Lm/W. 
And at 11V, the LJL blackberry  gives 728 Lumens @ 11 V (air core), 8.1 W,  90 Lm/W. 
Lots of Lumens, compared with the 407 lumens from the mains!

Thus, with the LJL, one can easily get VERY BRIGHT light given off.

[Lynxsteam]

Thank you for posting this comparison.  The fact that we can run as bright as using grid power has been my quest.  That's what I was hoping for.

I didn't endeavor into this project to conquer "Over Unity".  While Joule Thief type circuits seem amazing, they are pretty simple conversions circuits.  However, this forum also goes by the name "Free Energy" and that is what we have when we take solar power and light a garage, outdoor lights, or the house.  You can use solar through a grid tie inverter, into a battery and through an inverter, or direct to 12 volt appliances.  What is special about these circuits is they are perfect for lighting and use less power than standard inverters and can be made in the garage workshop.

Getting the simple dimmer circuit developed was a bonus.  Not having to resort to capacitors, diodes, potentiometers and resistors is nice.

Next up for me is a Morph between a Bedini like motor and a Joule Thief with no solid state components.  It should provide 60 hz AC.  Give me a week.

[NickZ]

  Steven and All:
  Those are very encouraging numbers there.  I'm hoping to be able to reach them myself sometime. I was also wondering the same thing as Lynx was concerned about, as to how much brightness was obtained comparatively, but had no idea that it would be as high as the 110v grid connections, but at much lower current usage levels. 
Great results guys, especially when using the smaller and more affordable "Blackberry Version".

  Overunity does not exist, and is a misconception, and a misnomer.
You are already there, when connecting to solar panels. Free is free, even if it costs a bit to initially set it up.
Maybe the 6 to 10 led bulbs can be lit from an affordable 10 or 20 watt solar panel set up. Which are not that expensive to buy now.  2  10 watt panels, costs only $60 now, for a total of 20 watts.  So, that's not too bad... especially when using the $2  104 lumen led bulbs. 5 bulbs for $10 = 500+ lumens. Total cost less than $100.
 
  I now keep the joule lamp on all night long lighting a single CFL, I've used two AAs, and after two nights they are still at 1.5 volts. Wow!

  BTW:  the link to the cheap $1.99 2 watt Led bulbs listed on E-bay (about 104 lumens each), that I had mentioned previously are what Hitman uses in his videos. So, they do work well even off of his 6  small 3 volt garden light solar cells, charging a 6 volt battery. I've been working on replicating his set up, also, but it's been overcast the last several days here, and so my 6 tiny garden light solar cells don't add up to much current, when trying to charge a 12 volt battery.

  Also, just letting you know that the CFLs, can be dimmed when they are gutted, and the warm white CFLs give off a light that is very similar to regular incandescent bulbs, which are still my favorites.  I'm still using CFLs, as they are free to reuse when they die, an early death, as many of them do. So, no need to throw them out, and they will never burn out when they are used as in my "Mango Version" of the Joule Lamp.

  Thanks for all you've done, it has not gone unnoticed.
                                                                                  Nick

[JouleSeeker]

Thanks Lynxsteam and Nick; looking forward to further working with you.

"Next up for me is a Morph between a Bedini like motor and a Joule Thief with no solid state components.  It should provide 60 hz AC.  Give me a week.

Can you make the frequency "tunable"?  I'd like that!
Anyway, sounds like a great project.  Pls keep us updated on your progress.