Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[AlienGrey]

The on going saga,

shall i give you a clue ? do you know haw the devise is suppose to work ? although this device is not standard transmitter at all. when i was a kid an old clever guy in R &D, he was an amateur radio bod where i worked in electronics. He asked me round one night to see his valve audio amplifier witch was absolute brilliant,  he also showed me his Amateur radio rig, witch was even better, he had a 10w rig and would drive it into a coil and tune it up for maximum power with a large coil with thick wire linked on the earth end and a tunning cap and a 100watt bulb hanging of it, he would gradually wind it up and tune each section and he did so until the 100w bulb was blinding, he would then laugh. that's all i'm telling you !

PS The inverter driver your using was in Wireless World Oscilloscope in the late 60s to drive your EHT driver, I have one i used components from an old PSU K2061's it does not get hot at all on my test rig , you can get the devices for bugger all look up 2SK20061, have you a big cap where it goes into the choke and a common earth for the sauce leg to earth.

[Hoppy]

The on going saga,

shall i give you a clue ? do you know haw the devise is suppose to work ? although this device is not standard transmitter at all. when i was a kid an old clever guy in R &D, he was an amateur radio bod where i worked in electronics. He asked me round one night to see his valve audio amplifier witch was absolute brilliant,  he also showed me his Amateur radio rig, witch was even better, he had a 10w rig and would drive it into a coil and tune it up for maximum power with a large coil with thick wire linked on the earth end and a tunning cap and a 100watt bulb hanging of it, he would gradually wind it up and tune each section and he did so until the 100w bulb was blinding, he would then laugh. that's all i'm telling you !

That's enough. 

[NickZ]

  Can someone point out on this Mazilli diagram, just where the protection diodes should go, please.

[AlienGrey]

they are the zener diodes from ground to the gates the UF4007 are the steering diodes. One thing to note the 680 Nf  is for the the ferrite core tuning, you have no ferrite core yours is an air core you might need to alter that value and the gate resisters in mine are 680ohm.
Suggest asking Tinsel what alterations he made in his Texas has resonance video. 

Also this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVYMLnXW9uo

Also see current control circuit, using SG3524 chip op amp r is 10k and 1 k gain control entering into pin 10 on/ off control , osc on pins 6 &7 is 30k and .01 for 20 khz  I use it on a stepper control circuit it saves the output fets if the motor stalls of fouls up. It will work at 24 volts.

[TinselKoala]

@Nick: Here, I've marked up your diagram with some suggestions. The MUR1560 diodes (or similar high current fast diodes) supplement the mosfet internal body diodes and should reduce your mosfet heating. The UF4007 diodes should be connected without long wiring; stray inductance in the Gate circuit is your enemy. The whole circuit should be laid out symmetrically. The capacitor value and coil turns make up the LC output tank circuit and should be adjusted (tuned) for your particular needs (desired frequency of operation). I thought you were driving a ferrite yoke coil; AlienGrey seems to think you are driving an aircore coil. My wireless power transmitters use essentially the same circuit but with a single turn, large no-core output coil and operate at 700-800 kHz. Getting up into the MHz range may simply be stressing your components, and proper layout becomes even more important at higher frequencies. The flyback transformer circuit in your picture will produce the highest output voltage from the FBT's secondary if you use 25-30 kHz for the primary tank circuit (choose capacitor value based on inductance of the centertapped primary, I use 5+5 turns on mine with a larger capacitor value to give the correct frequency.)
http://www.1728.org/resfreq.htm

(I didn't note it on the diagram but the Zeners should also be as close as possible to the Gate-Source pins of their mosfets. I consider the Zeners to be optional; most of the time I don't need them, but if they are used they should be right across the mosfets, not distant from them. Stray inductances are your enemy!)