Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[AlienGrey]

Nick my advice is to drive the katcher with a 4046 vfo and some logic and an out put stage, then divide it down with decade chips like hef 4017 or 4522 down counters then lock it to your chosen earth resonant frequency that way it's always spot on, and use a frequency counter to check  it out and your scope to make sure your coils are in tune and phase control is spot on.

Even kapanadze used logic to phase lock he says so in his video, one of them is subtitled in English.

PS Ruslans last video to me it looks like he has a high voltage winding on his 50mil pipe insulated, then his tuned katcher wave length on top with a grenage coil in the next wave on the same pipe. Hope that helps. it looks like a mini version.

good luck A

[itsu]

Sorry to hear about your Laptop Itsu! Your absence was noticeable..

I also have problems with my new setup. When i fire Kacher, a lot of noise gets into my yoke coils even with separate power supply and ground points. I started rewinding my yoke and isolating the two halfs just to see its behavior. My old setup was fine and with isolated halfs!

Itsu, your old setup's snabber had 47nF caps. What resistance value did you have? If i remember right, it was something around 1Kohm? And what wattage?

Tnks Jeg

ps. Nick i wish i could help you man but tuning is a b...itch! Everyone has his own!!!

Jeg,

i had (both burned up too) 10 Ohm ¼W resistors in series with the 47nF caps (across these resistors, there was a UF4007 diode which is still ok).

Itsu

[itsu]

Itsu,

As I suspected, the Allegga snubber arrangement appears to be inadequate. If you decide to go with Verpies clamp arrangement, make sure you don't inadvertently open circuit one of the electrolytic caps whilst running. I did this and blew the PWM mosfets, drivers and voltage regulator to smithereens! However, I did find that the waveforms improved considerably with the clamp. I used 2 x 4 stranded 1mm Litzed ECW for my primary and clamp.

Regards
Hoppy

Hoppy,  thanks, good to know.

I was (am) thinking on using that verpies circuit, but the present setup with the 2x 12 turns primary, 3-turn and 28-turn secondarys is somehow greatly adjust to deliver 220V DC at the output caps
which we can use for connecting up a 220V/24V ps, bulbs etc.

I would have to redesign the secondaries to match this same 220V DC output as the primary would be much more turns (whole circumference, and that severall times).
How does that pan out at your "verpies" setup?

Regards Itsu

[Jeg]

Itsu.

I wonder how is your 10 Ohm 1/4W still alive with the 47nf cap!

Also, I think that by using more turns and thinner wire for your primaries as that you consider to build, is gonna affect the current levels inside inductor's line. We need enough current inside there.

Hoppy
Thanks for the info. Is 0.1Ohm resistor so essential for the operation? I don't have any resistance wire to use. If it is really needed I will break a wattage resistance to take some. 

[NickZ]

   Itsu:
    Have you tried to see if your set up will self run yet?

   I have not made a working full bridge rectifier yet, as the diodes that I had used previously melted their solder in just a couple of minutes running. But, that was before I placed the essential missing 0.68uf tuning cap on the Mazilli crt.
I need to find the right diodes for that full bridge, and the cap(s). I have two UF 306 diodes, which I may try next.
   I also tried two diodes in parallel, as shown previously by Ruslan, pointing towards the yoke, and the other way around as well, which did not overheat. But, when I tried to use the same two diodes in series pointing away from the yoke, as is shown on the newer diagrams, again the diodes would overheat. So, I don't have the full bridge set up yet. Nor do I have any additional gain from the Kacher's output to the grenade coils. So, that's where I'm hung up at, for the moment.