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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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0 Members and 178 Guests are viewing this topic.

apecore

Quote from: NickZ on August 21, 2016, 11:24:40 AM
   There is nothing hidden in the Akula/Ruslan pvc former tube.  I use ferrite pieces inside of the pvc to raise and adjust the output signal.
   If you have any trouble with the fets gate signal being too high or peaks to 236v or so, you MAY need those TVS diodes for gate protection from those spikes. Maybe that peak won't hurt, but who knows. In any case, it's good to buy several more fets than you think that you'll need.  I've burnt out several of them, as well as my 18v zeners.
   I wish that Itsu would step in and advice, as that is his forte concerning these things, like fet drivers, and filtering out the peaks. But, maybe he's out on vacation chasing wild geese.
   You guys may be living close to each other, maybe get in touch?

   BTW:  I knew just from your voice, apecore where you are from, my older daughter is now living in Belgium, and the accent is similar there.
   
   I can get over 1000v at my ZVS/yoke secondary coil with no load. And produce a clean sine wave, instead, with no peaks that I can see. The Mazilli circuit to the yoke with direct connections from the yoke secondary to 700 watts worth of bulb, will light them all to a partial degree.
But, the way I have it set up now with NO wired connection from the 28t yoke secondary coil to the grenade 168t coil, I don't get the same results. As the output is coming only from the 3 turns coil, and not from the 28t coil. That's without the Kacher circuit running, just the induction circuit's output.   
 
    It is as Menoffather mentioned, that the HV is loading onto the induction circuit's standing wave form. And so the scope shots will show a fuzzy wave form throughout the wave form when seen on the scope. Interesting right?
   Your system is running at 64KHz? Mine is at 71KHz. But, mine is with only the 0.47uf WIMA capacitor mounted, and running on 12v.
   
   Don't expect the sync to be where is supposed to be. Keep looking for it, where ever it may be.
   There is no spark gap in THIS replication of Ruslan's device. Nor a third coil. That was just used on another circuit, not this one.
   
   Look at Geo's videos to see what the "effect" looks like when the Kacher's output is added to the induction circuits.
   Remember not to disconnect your Earth ground line when the device is running.
   
   I'll look at your last video now, and get back to you.

   TVS diodes: Transient Voltage Suppressor diode.
   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode

  PS.  I'd buy some big bulbs, such as 300w, or so. Such as the one the Ruslan is using.  Try some 500w halogens, also, to see what happens, as they have thicker filaments which may work better.
  The big bulbs are what pulls in any addition gain into the system. From where ever.  The higher the load the better and stronger the Kacher circuit works, as well.
  I'd also buy (if possibly) some more earth ground line.
The best earth ground line to use is the thick black multi stranded welding cable, it's flexible and can also be just coiled if it's too long at 37.5 to 40 meters long. It's can also possibly be tuned to the same wave of the grenade output coil, using caps, or diodes, etz... but, I've not done that.

Haha,..no not Belgium.
I'm almost Itsu's nabour  ;)... so you are close.

I tried without kacher as you mentioned,....  car bulb (21W)  will light at highest at the 12.5 - 12.6 kHz
so this is my inductor frequenty


By the way i have 6 turns on yoke for inductor coil :-\...  i can try 3?

Also i have already from start TVR 18 Volt at gate connected....  so only output site mosfets i will try some as i mentioned before.

When i put the kacher online i get almost 60 Watt output as shown in the vid.
I have no mazilli circuit or mediator..

About the bulbs i must see,...  here we can not buy the original bulbs anymore it is all led and halogen.
i will see if i can get some online somewhere.
Ground cable (big multi stranded) is also what i must buy,... now using the normal solid 2.5mm2 copper


About the 64kHz,... i think the scope acte on the wrong period,... there it is indeed the 12.5kHz.
And i think i have the fuzzy waveform already,... the 1.25mHz is superpositioned on the 12.5 kHz,...thats the case i believe?

Also i will try some other caps,.. as GF mentioned not every cap will work properly.
Lots to do i see and also lots to purchase to come hopefully at the end.




NickZ

   It's better to use 220v 20w microwave bulb, for testing, instead of the car bulbs, when using small bulbs.
  The ferrite tube cores that comes on the ends of network cables, laptop chargers cables, etz, to choke the signal will also work, if you can't find ferrite like from yoke cores or flyback cores to use in the pvc pipe.
   
   So, now you need to load the system to see what it will do. With bigger bulbs, and such. Maybe 100w for a start.
Yes, order the bigger bulbs online. You may also need to get a 24v 10A PS, to be used as the feed back loop.
   Good to see that your diodes are not heating up yet. Your diodes (30A) seam like a good pick, but you have a small load on, still. Lets see what happens with those rectifiers at 500-1000w loads? Ruslan had to turn off is 4000w device due to the rectifiers diodes overheating.

   Here's another short video that I just uploaded.  I found that once I disconnect the scope probe from the WIMA capacitor, the bulbs would light much brighter.  I didn't show that in the video though.  So, considered that the bulbs will light two or three times as bright, using the same input sources, without the scope probe attached. As it really can mess up the results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-dh5QCSvF4&feature=youtu.be
   











 











NickZ

  Please disregard that last video. 
  I made a new on this morning, showing how the device works without the scope probe negative crock clip attached. As it kills the Kacher's output at the bulbs.
  Now I'm using 24v, from the PS for the Kacher, but, still the same 11.45v, 2.5A on the induction circuit.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeYIvbtDgKY&feature=youtu.be

  EDIT:  I uploaded it again, to public.  I hate it when that happens. 

AlienGrey

Nick ,it's a private video only you can watch it.

NickZ

  Play it again, Sam. It's public now.
  Thanks for letting me know it was private.