Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

https://youtu.be/7Ldus3AQSpE


Wesley

Wesley,

Is this the 'surprise' part 3 video you told us you would be posting?

[Zephir]

@Wesley: I don't understand the principle of electrostatic pump conversion - it's still too ad hoced. Will you explain it in some future videos?

[NickZ]

If you do that, then pin 16 must be grounded.
That change does not alter the operation of the circuit I posted here.

   Got both #9 and #10 pins output signal back working as I had shown previously. Pin #3 needs to be left not connected.I still need to place a 0.1uf cap between pin #2 and pin #4. Which I'll do next.
   So, there will be No IC yanking, today.   Although, I've got a solder sucker now, and I was ready to go at it, pulling the TL494, if needed.  As I had suspected, the chip was still OK. 
  I think that I may just continue on now installing the mosfets and snubbers. And see how it goes...

[verpies]

Pin #3 needs to be left not connected.

If you do that, then the error amplifiers will be able to only adjust the duty cycles digitally - between minimum and maximum duty cycle (with only two discrete levels)
Pin 3 should be connected to pin 2 and/or pin 15 to have an non-discrete/analog adjustment of the duty cycle via pin 1 and/or pin 16.

Pins 2 and 15 are high-impedance pins, and they will not load down pin 3.  If they do, then they are broken (measure them with an ohmmeter to ground to verify).

It works for other people, so it should also work for you.

I still need to place a 0.1uf cap between pin #2 and pin #4. Which I'll do next.

Why?  That makes no sense.
What else do you have connected to pin 2 ?

[NickZ]

If you do that, then the error amplifiers will be able to only adjust the duty cycles digitally - between minimum and maximum duty cycle (with only two discrete levels)
Pin 3 should be connected to pin 2 and/or pin 15 to have an non-discrete/analog adjustment of the duty cycle via pin 1 and/or pin 16.

Pins 2 and 15 are high-impedance pins, and they will not load down pin 3.  If they do, then they are broken (measure them with an ohmmeter to ground to verify).

It works for other people, so it should also work for you.
Why?  That makes no sense.
What else do you have connected to pin 2 ?

    Verpies:
    Pins #13, #14, and also pin #15 are soldered and bridged together, and all three are connected to pin #2.
Pin #3 is left open. Pin #2 then also goes to pin #1 of the duty cycle pot, then the center pin of that pot (pin 2) goes to TL pin #4. Pin #3 of the pot goes to ground.  That's where the 0.1 uf cap goes, as shown on his diagram in the video link posted below. Between TL pin 2 and pin 4.  Why?  I don't know. Maybe you can see the reason as to why it's placed there.
   At least both outputs are working again.  The signal is as it was when I used the topruslan 7 version.
   If pin #3 is bridged to pin #2, I have problems. Stalker uses a toggle switch between pin #3 and #15, as his on/off switch. So, when that connection is closed, the driver STOPS the output signal.
   My set up is also the same or similar to what Stalker showed as his last push pull driver, on his latest video.
   Please look at his diagram, which I recommend that everyone look at, again. Watch his scope signal from the TL494, carefully,  please.
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YohJeG2DsSA

   I just finished getting my PC going again, so I'm able to place video links, and resized images, again. Thanks for bearing with me.