Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Here are a couple of pics as requested by TK.
  Now the TL494 does not want to produce an output. It's getting 12v, to pin 1, and16, and between them and pin 8.
   And,  I'm now getting 5v between pin 13 and pin 7. Which previously I could not read. But, there is NO output now at pin 9 and 10.
  I've ordered new driver chips, and sockets for both the 8 pin chips, as well as the TLs 16 pin sockets.  And also some more new IRFP260N mosfets, in case they are to blame for the current condition, although they test out to be ok. As now the TL board is dead.
   I'll wait until I have those parts before trying to rebuild my current driver, or to build up a new driver, or both.

[Hoppy]

Yuk - that's nasty looking Nick! Start afresh with the IC sockets and use much thinner tinned copper interconnecting / hookup wire for all low current signal connections. Such as: -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCB-Fine-Link-Hookup-Jump-Repair-Wire-Red-Black-6cm-Tinned-Wire-x-40-/252827267632?hash=item3addadf230:g:PNAAAOSwXYtY1Cgx

You can cut down the supplied lengths as required.

[verpies]

Are these interconnects made with an enameled magnet wire or a bare wire?

Do you have a solderless breadboard ?

[TinselKoala]

Nick, thanks for posting those photos. Layout and routing are perhaps the hardest parts of circuit construction, and your skills will improve with experience. Best to start over I think, rather than trying to fix this board.

It's hard, I know, to put your work up for criticism like this. I know it took you a lot of time, thought, and effort to put that board together. But with the advice we can give you, your second build will go much more easily and will have much less chance of failing or confusing you.

Sockets for the TL494 and for the driver chips (in the DIP version not surface mount!) are mandatory. Also, use resistors that are of the power rating appropriate for the job. They will be smaller in size and easier to position and work with. Think of the circuit as happening "between the rails", that is, between the positive and ground supply. Play with the layout on paper or on a solderless breadboard until you find a layout that involves the fewest "crossovers" and the shortest interconnecting wires. No need to use or powerup the breadboard version, just use it for layout and routing ideas. It may be helpful to start at the mosfet end and work backwards to the 494 and the power supplies when doing the layout and routing. When you finally start soldering stuff together, use a little extra flux from your flux pen, and proper heat, to make the solder flow smoothly rather than blobbing up. Practice makes perfect, and anyone who has tried to build circuitry has "been there". So please don't get discouraged or feel embarrassed. You will probably get some rather harsh comments but just shrug them off.

[AlienGrey]

Hmm! perhaps it's better to use one of the PCB's designs that are available our Russian friends have published a lot why not utilize one of them, and do yourself a favor if your handy work isn't quite so good.

Ask Enjoykin or someone if they have a layout you can use borrow ect.