Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Pinoy_Tech]

   If your TL494 is not wired like the Pinoy diagram, we may not have the same signals at the same pins.
   But, my el cheapo volt meter seams to be able to read the output at pin 9 and 10 with no problem. If there is no signal, I get no voltages across it, or pin 4. But, if there is a signal there on the 9, 10 pins, it ranges from 5.2v down to 4.5v without glitches.
   The duty cycle runs ok at maximum 44% or close to it, and the frequency runs at the highest setting, or close to the highest setting. So, that is where I can get a signal. Probably not at 20KHz, or where I need really it to run at. 5Khz to 30Khz, or so.
   But, still NO output, at all. It does seam as if one or both fets are fried, but they haven't even had a chance to even burp, yet. And I also had re-checked these new fets yesterday. When I saw that there is nothing coming out at the yoke's secondary coils, from the 3t, or 28t coil.

   My voltages are somewhat different, but I'd rather not have to do all the math on each pin of the TL chip, if connecting the scope. I'll show the full scope reading and setting, next video.
   I had ordered a new multi-meter that can also read frequency. But, the small one you see is in the video was what was brought to me this time, from the US. Next time I'll get the one I asked for, I hope. You know that doing the math is not my thing.
Rather be fishing...

   The voltages on pin 2 will vary from about 10v down to 0v, if I wait for the 50v 4.7uf cap to totally discharge.
    The scope directly on the TL pin 9 and 10, and ground, show just the same thing as what I showed on my video, when showing both scope probes on the gates of the fets.
    PIN  #1  ground.
           #2  10v down to 0v
           #3   0.v
           #4   0.69v
           #5,  1.62v strange scope signal
           #6,  3.56v
           #7,  ground
           #8,  11.98v
           #9,  1.18v to 5.2v sometimes, depending...
           #10, same as pin 9
           #11, 11.98v
           #12,  11,98v
           #13, 14, 15,  4.6v
           #16  ground.

- Sorry if I'm not around for quite sometime. I been in Phil for vacation and lots of things done during that time.
  I'm working abroad and no chance to do actual diy projects due to limited source of spare parts from the place
  where I am working with, (at least almost 3 decades now he he).  [size=78%] [/size]
[size=78%]  [/size]
- You're asking me if I already tried to build the ckt. Just a bit on the stage of the pwm which is the 494 chip.
  About few combinations I've already done during the past and I can say that chip is a bit diy friendly. If we
  familiarized all of its pins then we can optimized its function. However, the circuit can be simplified to easily
  achieved its normal operation.


I'm posting the schematic diagram of what I have drawn (the pwm which you claimed you are following through)
plus the block diagram portion taken from its 494 datasheet.


Let us do it in different breakdown on the pin combinations;

- pin 12 is for (+) power supply, no matter what it takes it should receive supply --> in that case +12V
- pin 7 is for ic's power ground


- then pin 14 must have a CVS of 5V, no matter what happen that 5V must always be there. If it drops by any
   means, there must be something wrong! Probably its load or the chip alone.

- pins 1, 2, 3, 15, & 16 are for error amp 1 and error amp 2 and they are not being used, but their inputs
   must be wired-up to make their outputs to stay low. Thus pin 3 is secured to maintain logic "0". [/size][size=78%] [/size]
[size=78%] [/size][size=78%]  [/size]
- pins 5 & 6 are just for the local oscillator and can be manipulated their values to meet the requirements for
   any target operating frequency. Thus VR2 is there for that purpose.

- pin 4, this is one of the good features on this chip that there is a built-in dead-time control. Thus duty cycle
  can be manipulated by not hooking the feedback voltage from the finished product output of the entire smps.
  We can say that this pwm chip can work as a stand alone pwm control compare to other pwm ic's that required
  to hook signals from its pwm output in order to have a controllable pwm. If somebody have already done experiments
  on this, sure he can easily understand what I mean.


- pin 13 is just only for logic controlled NAND gate and is connected to pin 14 to have a constant logic 1.


- pins 8, 9, 10, & 11 are for output stages and those transistors are configured as an emitter follower. Pins 8 & 11
   are directly hook-up from main Vcc while pins 9 & 10 are the outputs. PWM outputs can be practically calculated
   by --> (Vin * duty cycle). Your reading at Dmax seems to be ok; 12V*44% duty = 5.28V


- C2 is added for soft-start purposes, we can choose our own value.

[size=78%] [/size][size=78%]   [/size]

*** of course pict below are just to show that the pwm circuit I made is working... and for the pcb tracing, i always
  considered policy that there must be no room for error because i'm always do cad command from sch to brd linking..   

[itsu]

   If your TL494 is not wired like the Pinoy diagram, we may not have the same signals at the same pins.
   But, my el cheapo volt meter seams to be able to read the output at pin 9 and 10 with no problem. If there is no signal, I get no voltages across it, or pin 4. But, if there is a signal there on the 9, 10 pins, it ranges from 5.2v down to 4.5v without glitches.
   The duty cycle runs ok at maximum 44% or close to it, and the frequency runs at the highest setting, or close to the highest setting. So, that is where I can get a signal. Probably not at 20KHz, or where I need really it to run at. 5Khz to 30Khz, or so.
   But, still NO output, at all. It does seam as if one or both fets are fried, but they haven't even had a chance to even burp, yet. And I also had re-checked these new fets yesterday. When I saw that there is nothing coming out at the yoke's secondary coils, from the 3t, or 28t coil.

   My voltages are somewhat different, but I'd rather not have to do all the math on each pin of the TL chip, if connecting the scope. I'll show the full scope reading and setting, next video.
   I had ordered a new multi-meter that can also read frequency. But, the small one you see is in the video was what was brought to me this time, from the US. Next time I'll get the one I asked for, I hope. You know that doing the math is not my thing.
Rather be fishing...

   The voltages on pin 2 will vary from about 10v down to 0v, if I wait for the 50v 4.7uf cap to totally discharge.
    The scope directly on the TL pin 9 and 10, and ground, show just the same thing as what I showed on my video, when showing both scope probes on the gates of the fets.
    PIN  #1  ground.
           #2  10v down to 0v
           #3   0.v
           #4   0.69v
           #5,  1.62v strange scope signal
           #6,  3.56v
           #7,  ground
           #8,  11.98v
           #9,  1.18v to 5.2v sometimes, depending...
           #10, same as pin 9
           #11, 11.98v
           #12,  11,98v
           #13, 14, 15,  4.6v
           #16  ground.

Nick,

I build up my TL494 according to the Pinoy_tech layout / diagram i presented here:
http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg507286/#msg507286

If you have the same (which you confirmed), then we have the same circuit layouts.


Your el cheapo DMM will read a voltage, i am sure, but it won't be accuate above its specified frequency,
see its manual.

A DMM that can read frequency does NOT mean that it will show the correct voltage levels at high frequencies.
The max. frequency specs for voltage may be way lower than what the build in frequency meter can handle.
Use your scope to measure high frequency signals.


In my and your TL494 setup, pins 2 and 13 and 14 and 15 are solidly connected together.
Pin 14 is the internal 5V regulator output, so all those 4 pins should have a solid +5V!!

So i don't understand you are able to read "10v down to 0V" on pin 2, it should have a solid +5V


Pin 5 is the internal oscilator and should show a nice sawtooth signal, see the TL494 data sheet on page 8
(Voltage on CT).


Itsu

[itsu]

Ooops,

noticed Pinoy_tech answered as well,  will read it lateron.   

Itsu

[Pinoy_Tech]

Hmmm, i noticed that some of my typing letters are getting auto reduction
nor some sort of percentage bracket in between... No idea why


Any recommendation to avoid such? 

[verpies]

Pin 14 is the internal 5V regulator output, so all those 4 pins should have a solid +5V!!

I agree.
Anything below 4.95V on this pin is a sure sign of trouble ...a current overloading or a bad chip, most likely.
4.6V is unacceptable.