Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[apecore]

After reading you, I will start something.
As I see you work on mounts with TL494, I like it.
I have seen that are differents model, what kind of TL494 may i use ?.
Can you tell me the 2 diagrams to realize, because there are many assemblies and I do not have your experience to avoid such a montage that works badly.
My oscilloscope is a HAMEG 303-6 2 X 35 Mhz. Digital multimeter and frequency meter.
If you live in Europe, where do you order your components?
Here we have CONRAD, but a little expensive.
Questions: I see a Nanoseconde generator, but a TL494 can not work at 1 Ghz, despite my reads I do not understand. If you can enlighten me.
I have not Yok from old TV.
Thank you.

Mister X,

Your from France i believe?
I live couple  hundred miles Nord of France, i purchase mostly China now but TME.com of maybe TME.fr is also better then Conrad.

Please try to read some topics in this thread and try to make yourself a approach based on your theorie, from this point of view maybe better to start discussion then let you begin at start as many did before you and stopped already.


succes,
Apecore

[NickZ]

   Itsu:
   Below is one of my drain signals, running from my 24v PSU, now.
   With the yoke connected to the TL494, and only the 3t coil on the yoke connected up. No connection between the yoke secondary 28t coil to the grenade 168t output coil. The grenade 168t output coil is only connected to the full bridge rectifier, going to a 10w 120v bulb as the load. Ground line is connected to the 168t coil (output side), and also to the TL/UC circuits. Volts/Div set at 20.
   Running only for two seconds in order to take the picture, one fet starts to heat up. It would probably go up in smoke in one minutes running time. The other fet is cool at least when running for only a few seconds. NO light at the 10w bulb.
   Although the spikes are not over 120v or so, the fet still heats up. This is with almost full duty cycle and running at the same 16.67KHz, as yesterday. Lowering the duty cycle does bring down the spikes somewhat.

[itsu]

Nick,

Not sure how your configuration is right now, do you have only connected to your TL494/UC/MOSFET the yoke with the 2x 12 turns primaries
while the 3 turn and 28 turn secondaries are left open?

its hard to see, but it looks like i see a 40V square like wave which has a sharp (100V) spike ontop of it during the MOSFET turnoff time followed by some ringing.

How does the other MOSFET (staying cool) drain signal looks like? Can you put on the both signals at the same time?
Can you expand the ringing and tell me the time between 2 of the ringing signal tops (see diagram)?

Itsu

[NickZ]

    Itsu and All:
    I've connected up both of my induction circuits up now to my 24v power supply, and I am getting some light at the bulb(s).
The one fet is still getting pretty hot after a while, the other fet is not so hot, but depending on the frequency it also can get hot as well. Both drains signals look about the same on the scope.
 
   I'm tuning the system up now to see what it can do. I have not fired up the Kacher yet, but I will later today.
   I'm still getting those spikes on the drains though, but possibly not so bad as before. But, I still need to deal with that issue now.
   I'll post some more scope shots soon, after I do some more tuning. 
   I was up to 1:30 am last night working on this, and so I'm feeling pretty tired this morning.

   Mr.X:  You might want to check out this video by Ruslan (below). It is fairly informative, if you can understand Russian.
I can only understand a fraction of it.
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd3ND7R0mFs&feature=youtu.be

   There are many ways to go about connecting these devices up. And no one can tell you exactly which way is the one that will lead to a self running device. So, you must test these things out for yourself to see what works for you.
   One of the first things to do is to build or buy the TL494 circuit. There are already commercially ready made TL494 circuit boards for sale on Ebay, for very cheap prices. I would recommend that you try out one of those circuits, first. There is one PCB which has the duty cycle and frequency controller already installed on it.  It can save you some time, expense and frustration.

[MonsieurX]

Hello,
What do you think this one, the prize is correct.
Juste add potentiomètre for frequency adjust.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/150W-Simple-TL494-Drive-Inverter-Booster-Circuit-Board-DC-12V-To-AC-220V-For-Students-Graduation/32702714554.html
Regards.