Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[MenofFather]

Nick, I get almost 100 precent eficienty, probarly about 80-95 on yoke with one mosfet. Input 18,2 volst and 2,7 amps, autput 55 W 12 volts lamp and it light bright. I paste squres with NE555 with 50 precent duty cycle. And parallel to rimary is 1-4 mikrofarads capasitor, I not remember now. But for ajusting need chose right capasitor and right frenquency. In mine divice seems about 10 kiloherc. I think important is get on output big voltage, so you can not use 220 volts. But on primary use 24 windings (in my divece is 24 vinding on primary and 19 on secondary) and on secondary let say 60 windings and you get on output, if input 20 volts, you get  45 volts, it similiary like in Akula divece. I think maybe is important big voltage on output yoke and modulation 100 herc and run this trouth capasitor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raydg7YpJ7Y

[NickZ]

 Sounds like neither you nor the video that you posted are obtaining any real results, as even 100% is not any gain. Just using about the same input as what is obtained by the output.
  Last night I had my Joule Ringer single transistor circuit light a 15 watt Cfl nice and bright, on 10v and about 1amp, but after a couple of hours the internal circuit in the warm white Cfl got hot, and burned out.
This same thing has happened to two 110v led bulbs, and two standard 110v 25watt and 15watt Cfls bulbs, now. Even though they are not running at the same brightness as when connected to the AC grid source.  It's very frustrating.  As the 15watt Cfl bulb was lighting quite nicely, especially when I place a 25uf cap between the Ringer circuit and the bulb, it helped, but the internal circuit still burned out. Too high a voltage, I think, as the current is less than needed normally, even though the draw from the load will drop the voltage considerably.]
So, yes, the frequency must also be adjusted to 50 or 60 hertz,  as well as the voltage output. 
  I think that this is the reason that an inverter is used, as it will adjust the frequency to 50 or 60 hertz 110v or 220v from the 12v input, or from the feed-back path circuit, also.  As I am feeding-back high voltage Ac into the transistor collector,  battery positive or negative rail. That may be the problem, also, it may need to at least be rectified, although that is not a problem with the bulbs  when using incandescent bulbs that contain no internal circuitry.

  Cheap 150 watt inverter: Used by Lynxsteam in his smaller version of the SolN1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812251025&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Power+Inverters-_-N82E16812251025&gclid=CM2X9rq2yrcCFWIV7Aod2V0AEw

[NickZ]

  Thaelin:
   The Fets along with the rectifiers can be placed on big motherboard heat sinks with Pc fans on them, as TK has shown, but at several Kw output, they may still get very hot. I think that the heat control part of it is doable. It's getting that big output from the small input that is the first step. But, you need a big current input, not mAs, from 12volts. That's why they are using a 400 watt inverter, and 12v battery. The inverter and battery along with the ground connection also help to control the heat issue, and keep the device stable, I believe.

[aaron5120]

Sounds like neither you nor the video that you posted are obtaining any real results, as even 100% is not any gain. Just using about the same input as what is obtained by the output.
  Last night I had my Joule Ringer single transistor circuit light a 15 watt Cfl nice and bright, on 10v and about 1amp, but after a couple of hours the internal circuit in the warm white Cfl got hot, and burned out.
This same thing has happened to two 110v led bulbs, and two standard 110v 25watt and 15watt Cfls bulbs, now. Even though they are not running at the same brightness as when connected to the AC grid source.  It's very frustrating.  As the 15watt Cfl bulb was lighting quite nicely, especially when I place a 25uf cap between the Ringer circuit and the bulb, it helped, but the internal circuit still burned out. Too high a voltage, I think, as the current is less than needed normally, even though the draw from the load will drop the voltage considerably.]
So, yes, the frequency must also be adjusted to 50 or 60 hertz,  as well as the voltage output. 
  I think that this is the reason that an inverter is used, as it will adjust the frequency to 50 or 60 hertz 110v or 220v from the 12v input, or from the feed-back path circuit, also.  As I am feeding-back high voltage Ac into the transistor collector,  battery positive or negative rail. That may be the problem, also, it may need to at least be rectified, although that is not a problem with the bulbs  when using incandescent bulbs that contain no internal circuitry.

Hi NickZ,
Please allow me to chime in, for I am familiar with this kind of burn out problem you are facing with.
The CFLs and LED internal circuit are built in with "Forced Obsolescence" in mind by the manufacturers. Since CFLs and LEDs do not burn out frequently, they put in AC caps which are slightly lower than the suitable working voltage tolerance in the guts. So when the lamp fails, it used to be the AC caps which had gone blown out.
You'd better replace all the AC caps inside the CFL and LED with capacitors of 2X the nominal voltage tolerance of the originals in the circuit, and you will have lights which will last for a whole life!
That was my personal experience with these appliances.

aaron5120

[NickZ]

   Aaron:
   Yes, thanks for the tip. I'm also familiar with the pop of the small AC caps inside the CFL or LED bulbs. They are the weak link, but I'm tired of having to replace them, with equivalent ones. I'll try the higher voltage ones, if I can find them.

   MenofFather:  I've been looking at the video from Akula, and have observed that the yoke's red coil wire on the right side is connected to the rectifier (black wire going to the red coil wire), and the opposite end of that red coil wire is also connected to a yellow wire that leads to the driver circuit. This is right when he touches the yoke and talks of the sound it makes.
  So, the yoke's red coil is getting 220volts rectified, after the inverter, as you had mentioned. I had to use the Hoppy way to stop the video and really look closely, and use a magnifier also, but I did see it.
And so this may explain how the 3 turn coil winding gets it's 220v and possibly several amps of current, from inverter then further raises the current, while dropping the voltage to about 50 volts, or so.
  Hopefully that is another step towards unraveling the puzzle.