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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 249 Guests are viewing this topic.

Hoppy

Quote from: NickZ on September 22, 2017, 12:59:40 PM
   Itsu: just how should I test for the current wave form?

    Hoppy: No, I have not connected the feed back circuit up, yet.
   There is no point in connecting the feed back circuit until I resolve the snubber heating issue. The induction circuit need to be able to work well by itself, first.


Nick,

This youtube video gives you a fairly simple method not needing expensive 0-scope current probes. By displaying both waveforms on dual trace screen, you will see the relationship in time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwQzMxNOenI

This is the type of resistor required: -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pcs-BI-TECHNOLOGIES-TT-TO-220-0-05-OHM-R050-J-SHUNT-RESISTOR-CURRENT-SENSE-/141778517512?epid=1952262068&hash=item2102a87e08:g:5n4AAOSwFnFV~CiR

PS. Monitoring current this way would also give you a good indication of current drawn from your source power supply. Without this information, you will never know whether or not your device is becoming more efficient in terms of getting closer to unity. Brighter bulbs, no matter how your device is tuned does not necessarily indicate that your device is getting more efficient. A further step would be to start looking at power consumption.

Hoppy

Quote from: NickZ on September 22, 2017, 12:59:40 PM

    Hoppy: No, I have not connected the feed back circuit up, yet.
   There is no point in connecting the feed back circuit until I resolve the snubber heating issue. The induction circuit need to be able to work well by itself, first.

OK. I assumed from your previous comment:" Adding another load by connecting up the feed back path is not going to lower the heating, but raises it instead." that you had done this.

AlienGrey

Quote from: NickZ on September 22, 2017, 11:10:33 AM
  I don't know what you're talking about. My fets and yoke are working fine.
Hey Nick! woo! No offence Nick, I'm not your enemy, ;) It's no bother, you're on a learning curve, you will get there, in the end, my friend. or anyone else for that matter. The sooner we all break even the better.

Allen

itsu

Quote from: NickZ on September 22, 2017, 12:59:40 PM
   Itsu: just how should I test for the current wave form?

    Hoppy: No, I have not connected the feed back circuit up, yet.
   There is no point in connecting the feed back circuit until I resolve the snubber heating issue. The induction circuit need to be able to work well by itself, first.

  Itsu: Is it possible to show in a short video of your induction circuit lighting 400 watts worth of bulbs, for a few minutes run time? As well as showing the lumin output at your bulbs, and the temperature of the snubber resistors?

Nick,

as Hoppy already mentioned, you can test the current by using a current probe, or a CSR (current sensing resistor).
I think the best way is to put a non inductive 1 Ohm resistor in the MOSFETs source line, so you can use your normal probe to measure the voltage (thus current) across this csr.

See the below video of my setup running for some time using 400W of bulbs (220V)
It also shows the current probe being used which was set at 5A/Div.  (second part of the video!!)

Nothing is really getting hot, but there is not much luminense on the bulbs either.
All temperature readings are in degrees celcius.

Video here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSfNrwqkPhM     (don't use IE to display).

Screenshot shows the:
MOSFET-1 drain voltage (yellow),
drain current (green @ 5A/Div.),
gate signal (purple) and the
MOSFET 2 drain voltage (blue).


EDIT: i realize that the green current drain trace was taken from a primary coil lead BEFORE the Oleg snubber diode, so it does NOT really represent ONLY the drain current.


Itsu

AlienGrey

Have a look at this Scope shot back from April sometime when I was experimenting with magnetic cores...

Yellow was Drain 1, Terkwoys was Drain 2 and Purple was the Grenade or was it the 4 turns core wind? anyway, it was with a 40-watt bulb driven at low power.
The effect was only from one type of toroid wind and nothing else worked like this effect. I didn't use a Katcher at all it was just set up on my work table. I stripped down the 'core and photographed the core windings which I posted on the database and shared with Nick and Void as far as I can remember before 'the issues began'  :-[ :-X :-\ >:( :( >:(! but some info has been lost due to my drive crashing in the gap.

To be honest, I can't remember if the Purple waveform was the Core 4 turn winding or the grenade output, sorry but the grenade was a Stalker design of his website.

Notice all the activity is in the dead time zone !!!!!!!!!!    ;D :D ;) :)

Nick
No offence Nick 'mate' but why doesn't your waveforms look like the one above?

How do I explain to you (in the nicest possible way) it's the core and the way wound and it's material!

Also, notice no spike overshoot or wasted energy sent to Earth, the circuit uses 2 UF4007 diodes in an and formation with a 4uf7 250v cap to earth and a 56-volt TVS diode feeding back to the 12 volt feed all fed in via a 100uh choke.

Allen

PS who knows how long the core can sustain the above effect or it's effect of the core material. will it turn to dust or wither away or just go 'pop' in a ferrite dust cloud?  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Bifilar wind it so it saturates with thick low wind numbers. Experiment outside the box. Notice the glass fibre tape.