Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[GeoFusion]

   T-1000 or Geo:
   Can you please draw a little circuit diagram showing just how the diode is connected up to the transistor emitter?
  I already have an earth ground line going to the emitter. So let me know what to do with that, when I install the diode onto the emitter.

Hi Nick,
See the pics below, made a small Diagram for you and for all to view.
Simple connection. Make sure it's a Ultra fast diode. needs Super Fast Recovery.

Cheerz~

[NickZ]

   Geo:
   Thanks, I have a UF306 (600v, 3A), diode ready to be installed.

   I'm still getting drain voltages that are over 200v, which the FETs can't handle, especially when using the 200w bulbs. And, the non dissipative snubber is not dropping the spikes within safe limits on the higher wattage bulbs.
When running under 200v, things run a lot cooler.  So I'm still working on all of this tricky stuff, and trying to get my PSU to fire up, as well.

[Void]

   I'm still getting drain voltages that are over 200v, which the FETs can't handle, especially when using the 200w bulbs. And, the non dissipative snubber is not dropping the spikes within safe limits on the higher wattage bulbs.

Hi Nick, as I mentioned previously, you may need to put a lot more windings
on your toroids for the non-dissipative snubbers to get better results limiting
the switching spikes. It really depends on the type of toroids you have, but my toroids
have at least two layers of tightly wound windings, for example.

All the best...

[AlienGrey]

   Geo:
   Thanks, I have a UF306 (600v, 3A), diode ready to be installed.

   I'm still getting drain voltages that are over 200v, which the FETs can't handle, especially when using the 200w bulbs. And, the non dissipative snubber is not dropping the spikes within safe limits on the higher wattage bulbs.
When running under 200v, things run a lot cooler.  So I'm still working on all of this tricky stuff, and trying to get my PSU to fire up, as well.

Nick i'm not sure what we are talking about here the katcher or the push pull or both ?

It's a bit like the Dally device and the Akula device as they are both based on two different working principals is any one still working on the coax nano pulser ?  did any one get it to work ? and did any one get it to pulse correctly ?

[NickZ]

   Itsu, Void, and All:
   I've been doing some more testing and tuning. And, I've now I've been able to get all three of my 200w bulbs to partially light up. As well as showing some indication that there is some interaction going on now between the induction circuits, and the Kacher, even at the higher loads of 600w.
 
   Adding a UF 306 diode to the Kacher's transistor emitter did not change anything that I am aware of.
No higher intensity of spark, nor stronger signal was detected. But, there are some minor shocks that can be felt now, here and there, as Geo had also mentioned previously.
 
   One of the reasons that my induction circuit was not able to light those 3 big bulbs before, was due to one of the filter caps on the choke that's goes to the yoke's input, at the yoke's center tap. When I replaced that cap (an 1000uf, 35v electrolytic cap) with a 4.5uf, 250v AC cap, the three bulbs fired up nicely. So, those filter caps are very important in order to get the right results.

  So, now I'm also able to get the RM mode working on those three big bulbs. However, what I find is that although the RM mode, is the same as the chaotic mode, at times, it can also work and be heard ringing without going into this destructive avalanche mode. But, the RM mode's sound effects are very useful for finding the right tuning sweet spot, even though it is NOT sounding off at just the right spot, but close to it, like right next to it, instead. Which is why it makes that staticky ringing noise, which normally indicates that it's close to the sweet spot, but NOT in it's best sync point, yet. As at the actual optimum sync point, there is NO ringing noise, that I can hear.  I can't hear over 11kHz.

  Soliman's tuning method does seem to work to find the right tuning point. However, it's not exactly where the best output is to be found. As it's really to be found right next to the RM mode. So the RM's sound is an indication that the sweet spot is close by, but, the real sweet spot does not make any sound, at least that I can hear. And it's NOT affected by hand movement, as well as also having a higher output and with brighter bulbs. As well as a steadier signal, than whatever the noisy RM mode can offer.
At least on my device.
 
   Another interesting thing that I've found, is that although my efforts to reduce the over voltages on the fets in order to avoid the avalanche mode, were not enough to reduce the spikes sufficiently at the higher loads.  I was still able to reduce the over voltages at my drains, to whatever voltage level is needed, even under 100v, and still be able to achieve the SAME output levels.  That was news to me. As now I see that there is NO need to go anywhere close to avalanche mode to see the same "effects".
   I'm still working on all of this. But, I just wanted to make this important update on my findings.

   Below: On just 18v input from a laptop adapter, and the Kacher running on only 18v, also. I can now partially light up the 3 200w bulbs. While little heat and juice is being wasted by the components, as compared to before. So, I can now run the fets and other components are reasonable and controllable heat levels, while lighting up those big 200w bulbs.