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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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0 Members and 73 Guests are viewing this topic.

AlienGrey

Geo hi there' Orange? it's coming up mustard on mine  :D it's the phase shift winding and its buddy in front is a wave shaper modulator probably 50 hhz or 60 depending on where you exist on this globe any way thanks it's nice to see how it all should be done, it's all a permanent learning curve. I need to get out more Nick is slowly picking it up as it gets more complicated.
I like this one, ' *It says in the some of the texts, the load must be connected only after diode bridge, not befor.ect.'  ;D

AG

forest

Somebody lately posted interesting schematic , possibly about Kapanadze device with a diode bridge on secondary side connected to primary side. If you know what I'm talking about please repost it !

NickZ

   Geo:   Good to see you posting again. I looked at the schematic that you uploaded a link to, but, it's too complicated for me to figure out, and try to incorporate into my device.

   I been trying to tune my device by changing the C1 and C2 cap values. But, funny thing, that although the frequency does not change by much at all using different caps, the output can really be changed and improved, by a lot.
   The first step for us would be to get the feed back circuit working to at least run itself and powers the device, with no load on. Then try to see to what point it can be taken after that. That is why those little caps (C1 and C2), and choosing the proper caps is very very important, otherwise you won't get enough amperage to self run. But, the funny thing is, that they don't change my running frequency hardly at all, It's as if my device locks onto certain frequencies, and won't change, or resists any change.
   Although those caps are very important, yet I don't have any more of the 1000v to 2000v WIMA caps, which can make a big difference. So I've just been using the brown MKK types like you were also using. As they do work, although not as well as the wima caps.   I have my device running now, so I've been continuing with the tests.
But, it seams that my 7ah 12v batteries don't last more than a year, here for me. So, I have another one of the two batteries, that is about to bite the dust. And they are not so cheap, to keep having to replace them. And, I've had to replace several of those batteries, as well a the 24v PS. This is not a cheap project to invest in...   
   So, I want to make the simplest working version of the device that I can. But, I don't like batteries...at all. As they all fail, in too short a time, as well as the cheapo PS.                                                                 NickZ
   

T-1000


On the schematic Geo uploaded there are 4 main differencies from the rest of circuits:


1) The "katcher" circuit - instead of having complex on/off switching the power supply of circuit is simply going on/off on needed moment. And the power transistor is MOSFET instead of bipolar. Which is going straight to the ground on the gate instead of secondary coil going to the transistor to the ground.
2) The way whole coils are placed. On the picture they ALL have windings onto same direction with new layer beginning from same place as previous. And the top 4 layers are equal length + they are another half length with long coils in total.
3) The connection between Tesla coil is involving capacitor in series. Which makes perfect sense for stepping up voltage in series resonance.
4) The all parts of circuit (push-pull/on-off cycle of Tesla/output of grenade coil with capacitor in paralel) are calculated to resonate on same frequency. This includes Tesla coil which is also resonating on 17th harmonics upwards for that frequency.


So here goes nothing.... :)


Cheers!

Hoppy

Quote from: NickZ on May 22, 2019, 12:47:05 PM
But, it seams that my 7ah 12v batteries don't last more than a year, here for me. So, I have another one of the two batteries, that is about to bite the dust. And they are not so cheap, to keep having to replace them. And, I've had to replace several of those batteries, as well a the 24v PS. This is not a cheap project to invest in...   
   So, I want to make the simplest working version of the device that I can. But, I don't like batteries...at all. As they all fail, in too short a time, as well as the cheapo PS.                                                                 NickZ

Nick,
I warned you way back that those small slabs have insufficient capacity for the experimenting you are doing. They need to be re-charged using a proper SLA battery charger before the terminal voltage drops below around 11.5V on load, otherwise damage to the battery can result over time. A couple of car batteries would be more suitable.