Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[conico]

Information from Ruslan how to find the working frequency of push-pull.

[conico]

I followed Ruslan's instructions and put on the 10 meter Inductor the function generator and on the grenade coil oscilloscope probe. The maximum amplitude was at 1690-1710 Khz but the signal did not dance in amplitude. At 1742Khz he began to dance. On 1750Khz the oscilloscope show me a wave like a fish. If i changed frequency at 1751Khz or 1749Khz the wave like a fish disappear.

I moved on with frequency and found at 1850Khz a wave that danced louder in amplitude. I changed the time base of the oscilloscope and found the fish wave. Changing only by 1 Hz frequency, the fish wave disappears

in my case the push-pull frequency can be 1750Khz: 50 = 35Khz or 1850: 50 = 37Khz

[NickZ]

Deleted.   

[conico]

NickZ, what I've posted so far isn't for you because you don't believe me and you don't believe Ruslan anyway.
I'll show you what your misconceptions are.
I have a maximum amplitude at 1.8Mhz and you tel me i must use 15-18 Khz in Push-Pull. In Push-pull I must use an harmonic of 1.8Mhz, that mins 50th or 60th or 90th harmonic at list 1800: 90=20Khz. If I use 15Khz as you said, that is 123Th harmonic.
I've never heard of the 123 harmonica, no one uses that.
Second mistake is the groud wire of 37.5m. Grenade coil have 37.5m but it is not connected directly to ground, it is in series with 28turns , another 5 meters of wire on Yoke.

[AlienGrey]

   conico:   None of your three frequency points are even close to what they should be for the Push-Pull circuit,  15KHz, or so.
If the rest of your set up is up to specs, including the proper 2000v frequency tuning caps, then, the push pull frequency should be found somewhere between 15KHZ, and 18KHz.  And, the Kacher's corresponding best frequency sync point between about 1.5 to 1.9MHz. Those are the number that you should be aiming for, and not 37KHz.
   The Earth ground line should match the grenade coil in size. 37.5 to 40 meters long. Not 5 or 10 or 20, nor any other size.
   I am not trying to reinvent the wheel, nor do I think that I know better.  I just try to follow the provided schematics, and instructions.  However, one tiny difference can make all the difference at the output, one way or the other.
   I don't need to know how this device is "supposed" to work. I am an electronic assembler,  and so, I can build it, but I can't design it.  Therefore, the design and schematic have to be right in the first place. Or we'll just be replicating some one else's errors.
Perhaps, that is what THEY want... and we have not disappointed THEM.

   NickZ

Does this help ?