Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

Yes, 10 turns is all it takes to be cool, I managed to make another core that holds on to 15 to 20 winds.

Cheerz

Geo / Nick,

I have just knocked-up the same flyback ferrite transformer (as Geo shows above) with a 120V / 60W lamp as load on the secondary, tuned to max brightness with 4uF of cap and with Mazillii running from a 24V SLA battery (2X12V). Mazillii cap - 1.76uF -  8 x 0.22uF in parallel. Some measurements below.

With 4uF tuning cap: -

Current drawn from the battery: 2.94A.
Pk-pk voltage across 4uF cap: 140V.
RMS voltage: 52V.
Frequency: 16.1KHz.

Without tuning cap: -

Current drawn from the battery: 1.60A.
Pk-pk voltage across 4uF cap: 108V.
RMS voltage: 35.8V.
Frequency: 21.74KHz.

A suggestion to reduce heat in the transformer secondary, would be to increase the gauge of the secondary winding by using heavier gauge ECW. Not having any plastic insulation should allow the same number of turns. This may also eliminate the need for the copper heat-sink strips.

I will build along with Nick and report my findings and measurements as we progress.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
   That's good news. Glad you decided to have a stab at it...  Please upload some pics.
   I find that a 100 watt bulbs will light brighter than a 25w, or 50w, or the 60watt bulbs. So, I'm trying to just use the 100 watt, 110v type bulbs.

   Geo:  My flyback is wound all the same clockwise direction, even though the primary looks like it goes in two different directions (in my picture) from the center tap, it is really going in one direction. The flyback secondary is also wound in the same clockwise direction.
But, it looks like in your pics, the secondary is wound opposite direction to your primary. Although it can be hard to see clearly what is being shown in the pics.

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
   That's good news. Glad you decided to have a stab at it...  Please upload some pics.
   I find that a 100 watt bulbs will light brighter than a 25w, or 50w, or the 60watt bulbs. So, I'm trying to just use the 100 watt, 110v type bulbs.

   Geo:  My flyback is wound all the same clockwise direction, even though the primary looks like it goes in two different directions (in my picture) from the center tap, it is really going in one direction. The flyback secondary is also wound in the same clockwise direction.
But, it looks like in your pics, the secondary is wound opposite direction to your primary. Although it can be hard to see clearly what is being shown in the pics.

Nick, Geo,

Here are some photos of my quickly cobbled together setup. the first two photos show the Geo style ferrite transformer and the Mazillii oscillator with 'massive' heatsink. Photo 3 shows the main coil which I used for the Dally replication, with two layers of 80 turns for secondary. I wound a rough primary using thick hi-fi speaker wire. This secondary windings are connected as per Geo's 180V - 240V windings. The core is filled with ferrite lumps. Photo 4 shows a 120V / 60W lamp running off the main coil secondary winding, tuned to max brightness with 8uF, drawing 7.2A . Photo 5 shows the same lamp running directly off the secondary of the ferrite trafo with a tuning cap of 4uF, drawing 2.94A.

As we know lamp brightness in photo is is very misleading. However, the lamp on the main coil secondary was a lot brighter and in danger of blowing! Although my bench lighting was the same on both photos, the camera had to compensate on the very bright bulb, which is why the background looks darker. Its important to have a means of measuring the input current, so as to get a good idea of power consumption as different loads are applied.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
  Thanks for the pictures and info on your new set up.
   One thing that I notice, that when using the square tuning caps, (like the blue ones that you have on), I only get decreased output. So, I've changed to the rounder brown ones which seam to work much better. Although after placing more than a couple of them in parallel, I don't notice any further increase in output. That's why I asked Geo which ones he was using, as they are all different, even though they may look similar.
  I just blew both of my fets, I don't know why, possibly a short circuit which I may have cause in testing this or that. So I'm replacing those with new ones now, and will continue testing.
  I have also noticed that the flyback core does not seam to provide nearly as much inductance as the much bigger yoke cores do. This comes as no surprise, as the yokes are about 5 times bigger, although also of unknown permeability.
  I'm also wondering if the 200 turn bifilar coil that Geo is using is really needed. Or, if maybe we can get by with just the single layer 80 turn output coil as it may just be enough, for just 110v bulbs. As it's not good to give the bulbs any higher voltages, than what they are rated at. For me, just using the circuit turned for the 110v bulb output would be adequate.
  I'm still trying to understand the need and purpose for so many extra coils, as just the use a primary, and secondary should be able to do the trick. Why are all these additional coils needed? Or are they, really needed???

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
  Thanks for the pictures and info on your new set up.
   One thing that I notice, that when using the square tuning caps, (like the blue ones that you have on), I only get decreased output. So, I've changed to the rounder brown ones which seam to work much better. Although after placing more than a couple of them in parallel, I don't notice any further increase in output. That's why I asked Geo which ones he was using, as they are all different, even though they may look similar.
  I just blew both of my fets, I don't know why, possibly a short circuit which I may have cause in testing this or that. So I'm replacing those with new ones now, and will continue testing.
  I have also noticed that the flyback core does not seam to provide nearly as much inductance as the much bigger yoke cores do. This comes as no surprise, as the yokes are about 5 times bigger, although also of unknown permeability.
  I'm also wondering if the 200 turn bifilar coil that Geo is using is really needed. Or, if maybe we can get by with just the single layer 80 turn output coil as it may just be enough, for just 110v bulbs. As it's not good to give the bulbs any higher voltages, than what they are rated at. For me, just using the circuit turned for the 110v bulb output would be adequate.
  I'm still trying to understand the need and purpose for so many extra coils, as just the use a primary, and secondary should be able to do the trick. Why are all these additional coils needed? Or are they, really needed???

Nick,

When you compared different types of caps were they the same capacitance?

How low does your battery voltage drop when lighting your 100W lamp(s)?

You raise a good question about all the coils. What Geo is doing with his main coil is stepping-up the voltage to a level that will light his bulbs reasonably brightly. With my 80 + 80 turn coil, I can light a 60W lamp very brightly. If I increased the turns to 100 + 100, I could very likely blow that bulb. The price paid for the higher voltage is increased current draw from the battery. Each extra stage of coils increases power consumption and results in heat losses as Geo has found. if highest bulb brightness is the objective, then the best approach would be to use just one suitably designed transformer. Geo could directly interface the Mazillii to a centre-tap primary winding on the main coil to remove the need for the 1:1 ferrite trafo. So, the answer to your question is no, they are not needed if the objective is to simply light bulbs brightly. However, Geo may have his reasons for using a multi-coil approach over and above lighting bulbs brightly, perhaps for self-running, so he will hopefully be explaining this in due course.