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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 259 Guests are viewing this topic.

Enjoykin

How to wind correct Grenade ?

Answer is simple - make Blue Grenade. Tested and worked 100%

You need to get from your Grenade as small inductance as you can get. Ideally 0 inductance.
Use LCR meter to test how good you are in winding Grenade.

Зелёная Граната Штопора

Void

Quote from: Enjoykin on October 16, 2014, 07:46:30 PM
How to wind correct Grenade ?
Answer is simple - make Blue Grenade. Tested and worked 100%
You need to get from your Grenade as small inductance as you can get. Ideally 0 inductance.
Use LCR meter to test how good you are in winding Grenade.
Зелёная Граната Штопора

Hi Enjoykin. What you are saying appears to be at odds with what Ruslan explained in his video
and elsewhere on winding the grenade coil, from what I understood anyway. Each layer is not wound
phase opposing (which would cancel out the inductance for each layer of two roughly equal and opposing windings),
but it has been explained that each layer of two windings is wound to be phase additive, and the final resulting overall
inductance is about 240 uH to 250 uH approximately (as shown by Ruslan in his video), not close to 0.
All the best...


Acca




Roman  (Akula0083) has a new Tesla power generator.. 20 Watt free power generator.
Look in HD and it's great !!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awy9OgRd-D8

Acca..

d3x0r

Quote from: Void on October 16, 2014, 10:07:14 PM
....(which would cancel out the inductance for each layer of two roughly equal and opposing windings),
but it has been explained that each layer is wound to be phase additive and the final resulting inductance
is about 240 uH to 250 uH approximately (as shown by Ruslan in his video), not close to 0.
All the best...
I'm not sure why it's not closer to 0... 1/2 of the turns is slightly wider in diamter for slightly more inductance, plus the 3rd layer being 1/2 again that much is also larger... which would be more towards zero than -3/4 would be...


260 turns at 6cm for 52cm length (2mm wire maybe) is 438uH ... same coil at 1/8" winds (82cm) is 283uH which is just the 49m wire wrapped as a [size=78%]solenoid... I thought the reverse windings subtracted inductance...[/size]

was trying to find a calculator for inductance of a straight wire... like if 49m isn't coiled in any way, what's it's inductance?  Is the real inductance of the coil +0 from the wire's inductance itself?

49m in 1 loop (15m diameter) is 32.8uH ... in theory...

d3x0r

have to string together some videos; was able to recreate modes where toggling the signal generator makes it work.  inbetween here and the start, the kacher would just NOT work.  so reverted from battery to power supply and started working.... 10V 0A for +/- 60V out at fair current... have to make better measurements I know... but after a time the current went up; so I assume it ended up working on the charge of the cap in the power supply... so I added a capacitor at the end, so I get a second and a half run time after turning off the kacher power... slightly longer with 45khz signal generator working.


But with the cap, the kacher oscillates for quite a while where it's not high enough to produce light on the LEDs... if I reconnect power to the kacher at that point, with the signal generator on, the kacher does not power up correctl.  If I toggle the signal generator off, then the kacher resonance goes up, then I can turn the signal generator back on, and the output increases.     This is with the grenade output also connected to the ferrite core... the other end of that is not connected.  think I had to restore that connection to make it work again at high output.


the battery seems is just stuck at 'won't resonate'.
Also, I had good kacher output with the low-turn winding-cuff coil disconnected from their capacitor... then connecting that capacitor kills the output... to like 10% voltage.   so then turning it all off, connecting that, starting the signal generator, then starting the kacher, then turning the signal generator off and back on seems to be a good start-up procedure.


Edit: adding the capacitor in front of the power supply changes it from 0.00-0.02A to 0.20-0.24A ... and when output is available the kacher transistor gets warmer to hot.


edit2: the low frequency resonance is better seen when the inductance of the grenade and the cuff are the same.


Edit3: replaced signal generator with power transistors and a 555 timer tuned for around 46Khz and 50% duty cycle.  Low frequency was resonating in wide 46khz bands, but it doesn't now... changed the load, so I have the grenade to the ferrite core to a rectifier to + and - which go - to an indandescnt and + to 60V LEDs.  tuning the 555 for various duty cycle could make the incandescent glow more brightly, but the LEDs would go out, connecting the kacher had minor effect on the incandescent and the LEDs lit up again.  Ended up heating my drive transistors pretty well, and actually felt some wamth from the bulb.. running off a 12V battery, and ground.  and the signal was more like a 1/4 duty cucle pulse followed by some small ringing ... not sure if somethig changed; if I was driving the 555 in an inversed duty cycle or something...