Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[magpwr]

HI MagPwr

If I remember correctly Pin#12 is the voltage offset for the Frequency range adjustment and can be left unused.....
His circuit has other limitations/drawbacks that I don't like too much either: ie; Hard switching on the Gating cycle,  the circuit will turn off the MOSFET arbitrarily during ANY part of the Switching waveform.....

Can be corrected by logic gates to time on leading edge and synchronize the switching signal (ZVS), easy mod, use a 4013N or 74HC74D flip-flop > AND gate: Drive signal > CLK & interrupt from GATING > D > AND gate.   Has to wait for cycle to complete before terminating MOSFET drive signal (output of Q only changes on next rising signal edge ).

Funny you should mention Super Corona Dope:  I have a bottle on the shelf from a number of years ago when I played a bit with the DL PLL also.  Never opened it,  one time used standard electrical varnish on the 316L tubes and it adsorbed water and eventually peeled off the tubes.

Sorry for the sidetrack......

Yes, PLL or  a *Phase Lead feedback driver* might be the way to go for small signal/logic control for the Ruslan device.  These are exactly what is used by the DRSSTC builders.  Learned alot myself about signal timing / resonance building SSTCs.  I believe some the same information is applicable in this case also.  Just how to apply it?

take care, peace
lost_bro

EDIT:  forgot to mention the good part of the DL PLL:  I really like the frequency autoscan for resonant freq.    Of course the values Dave used are for just a couple of KHz.....   would need to change some resistor value(s) to get the right frequency for the Ruslan project so the autoscan function and PLL would scan & lock at desired ballpark frequency range. (maybe fix so it will ZVS also)

hi lost_bro,

You mentoned -Funny you should mention Super Corona Dope:  I have a bottle on the shelf from a number of years ago when I played a bit with the DL PLL also.  Never opened it,  one time used standard electrical varnish on the 316L tubes and it adsorbed water and eventually peeled off the tubes.

Base on old article mention by scientist the Super Corona Dope once applied needs to be cured in a temperature controlled oven or put it out in the mid day Sun for few hours.
This Dope save time on the conditioning the tubes which takes 3 months to get white oxide coating base on their experiment which reduce current between inner/outer tubes and does create larger bubbles.

The white coating is the decompose part of stainless steel 316L.

Lastly please don't forget to sand the tubes "inner tubes outer" and "outer tubes inner side" before applying dope.

That's it.


-
Time to resume experiment with PLL after breakfast.

[NickZ]

  Verpies:
   Welcome back!
    I believe that the last Ruslan circuit build is still at the testing stage. And is why he may not have it self running yet. He's trying out different ideas, and driver circuits to see if the Kacher's driver can be replace by taking the input power from the output of the push pull yoke/grenade circuit. Seams to be working so far, but needs to be finished and tuned for higher bulb brightness and best output levels.

  I doubt that all the different circuits that Ruslan has shown are built by him...
He probably has hired someone to professionally make all those different driver circuits, which he then just connects them up to the yoke/grenade coils, to test the results.
Like I wish that I could do...

[Ed morbus]

Watch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czaYKb2sdwk

[Ed morbus]

Watch This Yoke info

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3piSivMXsdQ

[Ed morbus]

Watch Akula Generator

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmYfcgvf6Jc