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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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0 Members and 154 Guests are viewing this topic.

Bat1Robin2

I got your back Nick, I am just way behind and in a bind waiting for parts.

Bat1Robin2

more pictures sorry about the size i know i know small pictures i study electronics not computers.

TinselKoala

Well... I approve of your home-made circuit boards!

May I offer some advice?

1. Those blue 3-position connector blocks make excellent mosfet sockets. Way better than soldering big wires to the mosfet leads themselves, and it makes it easy to change mosfets should they fail.
2. Ferric Chloride is a lot safer than HCl-H2O2 to work with to etch your boards. It takes a little bit longer but no noxious corrosive fumes are generated, and you can just pour the used etchant back into the original bottle, and then when it's too weak to work well, take the whole thing to the waste disposal depot.
3. I prefer to drill the holes first with a #60 or #58 drill bit, then "connect the dots" with the resist pen, then finally perform the etching. I find this to be the easiest way to do the boards. You can tape your paper layout pattern to the blank PC board material and use a sharp pinpoint to "prick" the hole positions for precise locations, then drill, sketch and etch.
4. With the Ferric Chloride etchant system, an ordinary "Sharpie" brand black marker pen works just fine for the resist, you don't need to spend more money for expensive special pens. Just sketch your traces in well and don't worry, it will work fine. Remove with acetone or alcohol after etching. You can also use ordinary packing tape for large areas, fine tape strips for lines, or even tape the whole board and use a fine hobby knife to cut and remove bits of tape to expose the copper for etching.

Nice work, best of luck to you!

(You can resize your photos in any convenient photo editing or graphics application, like Paint for Windows, mtPaint,  or Gimp for any platform. The maximum width should be kept under 1024 pixels wide so that comments don't run off the page and get hard to read ...)

;)


NickZ

  Geo:
   Thanks for the pics, and telling us what you are up to lately.

   Here's a few pics of my current set up. It may look similar to my last posted images, but I'm always changing things around, trying to find the magic combination.
  I've been using my android tablet to help me find the running frequencies, on the oscilloscope app, as well as an android spectrum analyzer app.  It's been kinda fun...  till I can get a real oscilloscope.

  If you are listening for the ringing sound from the yoke, you may be far from the 27.349khz (or so) frequency, that the yoke should be running at. You won't hear it ring at that frequency, unless you're hearing is like a dogs.  Which is why I'm using the spectrum analyzer now, as I couldn't tune the crt by ear. 
Neither of the Akula or Ruslans yokes can be heard audibly ringing...

  Good luck with your pcb layouts, and new circuits. Looking good so far.

Enjoykin

Good news from Russia folks !!  :D

NEW OU confirmed by Rik - 300 W output with near 0A input current. All trick is in bucking coil configuration on old TV ferrite joke core. Device need very precise timing and fine tunning. Tunning is very difficult. Don't try without good oscillograph and signal generator. To catach effect power supply must be minimum 30Vdc. Mosfet VDS=min 600V/20A. Coil: 16 sections - each 35 windings - 0.2 mm - magnet wire. How to wind look at picture.

Very bad news was: Forum trolls have done their dity job and Rik has escaped - forever.  >:(
On all forums same dirty story. No more comments.


Rik from realstrannik.ru
http://realstrannik.com/forum/svobodnaya-energiya/258-rabotayushchaya-ustanovka-s-kpd-ot130.html