Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

    Bro:
   That's the kind of circuit that I'm looking for, both for the Kacher, as well as for the push-pull oscillator. Hopefully with adjustable frequency, etz...
   They don't ship to my country, but here is one that does, and is only $15, free shipping to my door.
   Can't beat those prices, just a matter of obtaining the right driver boards.
   I'm about to order a USB scope in the next day or two. Then wait for a month for it to get to me here, at least I hope that it gets here.

   http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZVS-Tesla-coil-driver-board-Marx-generator-Jacobs-ladder-H-Voltage-Power-Supply/271801573404?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D67963f93d9844586b574fc3ad23f69a1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121541256158&rt=nc&tfrom=121541256158&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal

   
    "Not reaching the *full-on* voltage level necessary"

   May be one of my main problems now, as the voltage does go down quickly once I kick on the device, which can also cause the fets to fry. I'll look into it.
   Thanks.

[TinselKoala]

    Bro:
   That's the kind of circuit that I'm looking for, both for the Kacher, as well as for the push-pull oscillator. Hopefully with adjustable frequency, etz...
   They don't ship to my country, but here is one that does, and is only $15, free shipping to my door.
   Can't beat those prices, just a matter of obtaining the right driver boards.
   I'm about to order a USB scope in the next day or two. Then wait for a month for it to get to me here, at least I hope that it gets here.

   http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZVS-Tesla-coil-driver-board-Marx-generator-Jacobs-ladder-H-Voltage-Power-Supply/271801573404?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D67963f93d9844586b574fc3ad23f69a1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121541256158&rt=nc&tfrom=121541256158&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal

   
    "Not reaching the *full-on* voltage level necessary"

   May be one of my main problems now, as the voltage does go down quickly once I kick on the device, which can also cause the fets to fry. I'll look into it.
   Thanks.

You are already using that same circuit, or a close variant of it. It even uses the same mosfets. You can build it yourself for even less than the 15 dollars, and you won't have to wait for delivery.  Finding the appropriate capacitors will be the hardest part. The frequency is set by the tank circuit's L and C values -- that is, the C value of the big black capacitors on the board, and the L value of the winding you put on the yoke or flyback core. The circuit is "autoresonating" in the sense that it automatically operates at the resonant frequency of the tank circuit, which can be calculated easily:
http://www.1728.org/resfreq.htm

The Ebay circuit's capacitors are selected to provide a resonant frequency of 20-30 kHz when used with the typical 8-10 turn center-tapped primary that people will wind onto the exposed part of the core of a TV-CRT flyback transformer. This frequency will generally provide the highest voltage output from the flyback transformer.

The Ebay circuit will work better because it is designed with proper layout: short leads, symmetrical output section, proper heatsinking, etc: things I have recommended to you long ago. It is the same circuit that powers the primary side of my hybrid SS-SG TinselKoil VII:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_VtbfhyvUU
The mosfets do not run hot in this application. Why not? Think about it.

The same circuit can be used for wireless power transmission, as I have demonstrated many times. The receivers of my system will indeed light up bulbs more brightly than they light up when powered by the straight DC supply to the transmitter, and the mosfets in the transmitter do not run excessively hot.

Your mosfets will handle the power levels you cite _only_ when in circuits that are properly laid out, properly supplied and switched, and properly heat-sinked with fan cooling. Lots of stray wiring all over the place will cause inductive and capacitive effects that will result in bad switching and wasted power that will only heat up the mosfets without doing anything useful.

As far as the USB scope goes... save your money and buy a real oscilloscope. You do yourself a disservice if your first scope is a cheap low-bandwidth USB digital scope. You may be able to find a used Rigol DS1052 in the 200 dollar range, but I recommend a good analog scope as the first scope, because you will learn a lot more by using the analog scope, and you can get a far superior product for the same money as you'd spend for a low-end DSO.

The image below shows the _same circuit_ built up for my TKVII. The capacitors give a total of about 1.5 uF at 500 V, and instead of a toroidal choke I used two cylindrical chokes (black ones). I only had one 3-Watt metal film 100R Base resistor so I used a carbon one for the other side; in the Ebay circuit you can see the big base resistors behind the heatsinks.

[Void]

  The Akula/Ruslan device is lighting the 220v AC bulbs with rectified DC, not AC. Why are they doing this?
There must be a good reason.  I have not tried that yet, but I will. Especially once I can find some big 220v bulbs.  NO luck, so far...
  Hoppy had once mentioned that using the 220v AC bulbs would cause the circuit to only draw 1/2 of the amount of current from the source battery, (or from it's own looped output source), compared to using 110v bulbs. Can someone confirm this for me, please. 

Hi Nick. Not sure about the pulsating DC (i.e. rectification using diodes or a diode bridge) being
important or not at the output. Ruslan has also shown using a filter capacitor as well in some circuits
to convert to pure DC. I don't really trust what Ruslan has shown however as being something to
base your circuits on. Ruslan was constantly showing different setups, and I personally have serious doubts
that anything Ruslan has said or shown is at all reliable.

When you use a 240V/220V bulb, it doesn't necessarily mean that you will reduce current draw at
the input, but a 240V/220V bulb will have a higher filament resistance than a 120V bulb for a given wattage rating.
How much load the driver circuit sees depends on impedance matching. Maximum power is transferred to the load
when the output impedance of the output transformer winding is equal to the impedance of the whole load that is connected.
Likewise, maximum power transfer occurs when the output impedance of the driver circuitry (ZVS driver or PWM driver)
equals the input impedance seen at the input of the transformer windings. The more light bulbs you are lighting with
your driver circuit, the hotter the driver FETs will get. If you are driving quite a high power load with your driver circuit,
your driver FETs are going to get very hot. This is normal and expected. The difference with what Akula and Ruslan are supposedly
doing, is they are supposed to be delivering a lot more power to the load than the driver circuit is supplying to the transformer windings,
thus they can (supposedly) light many hundreds of Watts of bulbs without massively overheating their driver FETs. If the driver circuitry
is supplying all the power to such a large load, the driver FETs would overheat very quickly.

So, if I raise the input voltage from 12v to 24v, will the current draw be reduced by 1/2.  Or not? 

No, it doesn't work that way at all. It is all about the impedance of the load, as compared to the
output impedance of the transformer windings which you are connecting the load to. The load the
driver circuitry sees depends on the impedance transformation ratio of the transformer windings.
Again, this is how it works for normal, non-overunity circuits. If you are getting extra power from
somewhere else other than what the driver circuitry is providing, then you can theoretically drive a larger
load without over-loading/over-heating the driver circuitry.

The fets that I use, IRFP260N should handle 50A, and 200v.

Not at the same time. Those ratings are max ratings of current and voltage individually,
which doesn't mean you can reach the max of both at the same time. The max power dissipation
for the IRFP260 is 280 Watts. It is not 46A x 200V = 9200 Watts !!!

Nick, what it boils down to is that with the Akula type circuits, or any over unity type circuit, you
are not designing and tuning to light as many light bulbs with the driver circuitry as you can.
The goal is to pull in extra energy from somewhere else and use that to power the load as
much as you can, while minimizing the amount of power that the driver circuitry has to provide.
This is a major difference in approach... assuming this really can actually be achieved.

All the best...

[NickZ]

   Quote from Void:
  "Nick, what it boils down to is that with the Akula type circuits, or any over unity type circuit, you
are not designing and tuning to light as many light bulbs with the driver circuitry as you can.
The goal is to pull in extra energy from somewhere else and use that to power the load as
much as you can, while minimizing the amount of power that the driver circuitry has to provide.
This is a major difference in approach... assuming this really can actually be achieved. "

  Ok, I get that. Just like SR showed in his video,  he disconnects his device from the power supply, when the draw on it had already dropped down to 0 volts , and is no longer providing any input power.

   TinselKoala:  Thanks for your thoughts.
   I believe that the modified Mazilli crt that I am currently working with has all the essential features that you've mentioned.
Like short thick wire connections well soldered, with no cold solder joints, UF serie diodes, 18v 5watt zeners, three current chokes, etz... but it can't handle 24 to 30 volts without overheating. The commercial board posted previously can....  Maybe.
  But the voltage drops too quickly at my circuit, when the 12v car battery (which can still start a car) is used.  Even when the battery is also connected along with a 10 amp car battery charger, at the same time. However the Mazilli crt can still light several 100 watt bulbs with useable brightness.
   I think that using 24v feed-back loop, is what may be needed for my circuit to shine as it should.
   My feed-back loop's output, back to the input side, is dependent on the power levels from the 168 turns grenade coil. Which are now about 12v, and will also now add brightness to the bulbs when it's connected up as mentioned.
So, I'm working on this aspect still, to minimize the input draw on the battery.
   I take the output from the 168 turns coil at both sides of the inline diode, then that goes to the rectifier diodes at the flyback core, and to a filter cap, and back to the input side.

   I don't know if using 220v bulbs will make any difference, or not. Or even the rectification of the output power to DC.  But, I do know that if the bulbs aren't getting the required voltage, the fets can burn out quickly, as well as the driver circuit that's in the the CFL type bulbs. Which in my case, any ungutted CFL bulbs only lasts about 1 minute, and will go up in smoke, when connected to my Mazilli.   But, it looks great, until then... 

  Here's a pic of my current Mazilli crt. 
 


 

 

[Void]

Hi Nick. Nice job on your Mazilli driver circuit.
I don't know how much wattage of bulbs you are lighting in total,
but if it is up around 200 Watts or more of actual power being consumed by the bulbs,
your Mazilli driver is going to run very hot, even if the Mazilli driver is running optimally,
and even if you have really good heat sinking and fans. You may just be driving too much of a load.
All the best...