Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[a.king21]

Nick Z:  I am interested in the part of your circuit where you fried a 150 watt bulb, but nothing happened to a 60 watt bulb.
Could you post that part of the schematic please so we can analyse it?

[magpwr]

Nick Z:  I am interested in the part of your circuit where you fried a 150 watt bulb, but nothing happened to a 60 watt bulb.
Could you post that part of the schematic please so we can analyse it?

hi a.king21,

Likewise i will be sold as well if Nick Z can just show us the just 1 photo of the fried 150watt bulb with glass still intact of course.

We are just bunch of curious minds waiting to be satisfied ...

[NickZ]

 Ok, guys, about the 150 watt bulb being burnt out.  Well, it's not true.  As I was also wondering about that, I pulled that bulb out from the trash bin today, and cleaned up the connections on it, and it fired up again.  Sorry to mislead. However it is all black inside the glass though. And any CFL will burn out in less than two minutes running. Neon bulbs also get chard, if left on the circuit.
  All my connections here next to the beach do get all corroded,  I feel like I'm getting corroded, as well.
  My point being, that higher wattage bulbs do draw more power from the generator, compared to smaller bulbs. Akula does not use 40 to 50 watt bulbs, for a reason. If your set up won't light higher wattage bulbs, then there is something wrong there.

   I'm fixing my 50 year old 10amp car battery charger, which also has all it's connections rusted out. And may be why my car battery is not being charged properly. I'll know more about that soon, but I do hope that I can get it working right again. As anything that works for that long a time, could use some help to keep it going, as it's been very faithful to me, up till now.

   Batman:  I would recommend that you follow the instructions given by Ruslan, or Akula, for the Tesla coil secondary, as what T-1000 mentioned are NOT the specs for the Kacher on this particular replication. There is a reason why the Kacher secondary is short, and not made to deliver 5000 to or more volts. As there will be practically no current coming from the output to the antenna, from a long secondary, mostly only voltage. T-1000 has never built this type of device, and is just guessing of how it should be made, and disregards what was mentioned by the real builders. Sorry T-1000, but it's true.  Or not?
   Just look at the spark that is seen on the original Akula second video device. It's only about 1 to 2 mm and does not stream, as does the one on Ruslan's replication of the same device.  But, of course that's up to you to decide which way to go on this.
  The higher output from a long Kacher secondary coil, will also interfere with all home electrical devices, to a much higher degree. As the idea is not to spew HV all over the place. And this may be why Ruslan's 2300w replication did not need an antenna, and the coaxial cable was wound tightly right next to the grenade coil.  This is still his highest output device to date. If I am not mistaken.
  The further the primary coils on the Kacher is from the secondary coil, the further the antenna coil will radiate. The closer that those Kacher coils are wound together, the stronger is the signal at the antenna. But that signal won't reach out as far, which is good,as it only need to reach an inch or two away, and not for a foot or a yard.  Ruslan recommends being able to put your finger in between the secondary, and primary coils, as a guide. This goes for both the Kacher coils, as well as the grenade/antenna coils.

[Hoppy]

  The further the primary coils on the Kacher is from the secondary coil, the further the antenna coil will radiate. The closer that those Kacher coils are wound together, the stronger is the signal at the antenna. But that signal won't reach out as far, which is good,as it only need to reach an inch or two away, and not for a foot or a yard.  Ruslan recommends being able to put your finger in between the secondary, and primary coils, as a guide. This goes for both the Kacher coils, as well as the grenade/antenna coils.

I seem to recollect that Ruslan recommended putting two stacked fingers between the coils. That's with the power off. 

Please post a photo of your not burnt-out but blackened bulb.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
  I remember Ruslan putting a single finger between the Kacher coils. But, it also depends on your circuit.
My Kacher will not work if I use one or two fingers distance between the coils. So, I had to do with only about 3/8 inch on the Kacher coil, and about 1/2" to 1"inch distance on the grenade/antenna coils. As my Kacher circuit is not very strong,  yet.

  I tried to take a pic of my not burnt out 150w flood light. It is not possible to see inside the bulb through the glass cover lens, when using the camera, but, just take my word for it, that the whole reflective mirrored finish inside of the bulb is black.

  This is a pic that you may have posted previously.
  Showing the distance between the Kacher coils, at least on Ruslan's replication.
  Also, please notice the SIZE of the Kacher's secondary coil, as these details can be very important.