Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   MenofFather:
   Thank you for the corrections on the Akula diagram.
   I've taken the liberty of making the diagram bigger, and sharper, so that my old eyes can see it better, I hope that you don't mind.
   I still have many questions.  Like which is the yoke, and which is the Tesla coils, and which is the inverter, and what is G1. and the values of the Fets, etz...  As I'm still having problems trying to figure his diagram. I was hoping that it would clear up some of the questions of the previous device, and it's wiring routes.
   

   

[Grumage]

Dear Nick.

I can understand your dilemma with this new circuit. I have been in contact with T-1000 today and he seems to think it is another way of mixing frequencies... He keeps on saying to me that there are "many roads to Rome"!!

I am very sure that clarification will be available in the not too distant future   So for now my suggestion to you is to keep tinkering with what you have. You have all elements in place, I think. Do you have a choke within the main coil? This needs to be in parallel with a capacitor to create a freewheeling secondary frequency to that of the primary drive oscillations.

Dear MenofFather.

I think that choke you have shown as an error is for HF filtering. However I may be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.

Dear Verpies and Hoppy.

Attached is a picture of my "Watt Box". A simple device made from a Poundland Solar PV cell. Small micro ammeter. 60 Watt lamp and a 10k ohm pot for calibration. I wanted something that did not need to have  batteries  replaced....This is an OU site afterall!! I hope you approve??

Cheers Grum.

[verpies]

Attached is a picture of my "Watt Box". A simple device made from a Poundland Solar PV cell. Small micro ammeter. 60 Watt lamp and a 10k ohm pot for calibration. I wanted something that did not need to have  batteries  replaced....This is an OU site afterall!! I hope you approve??

I approve. It is not perfect because the output of a PV cell depends not only on light illumination but also on its temperature, but nonetheless it is sooooooooo much better than eye balling a light bulb or trusting a video camera with automatic aperture and white balance.

Calibrate your "Watt-Box" with known DC.  You can safely assume that multiplying input DC Amps by DC Volts yields Average Watts.  ...and make sure nothing moves inside after this calibration.
AC offers too many opportunities for error.

Tabulate DC results, and let one of us do some curve fitting for you, for interpolating intermediate results.

At high frequencies your "Watt Box" will under-register, because this bulb's filament is coiled and coils are inductors that don't allow high-frequencies through (in other words: the impedance of an inductor increases with frequency). 
Automotive bulbs for dome lights have straight filaments... but there is no need to go out and look for them now - just keep it in the back of your mind if you ever want to make high frequency measurements.

[NickZ]

   @ Grumage:
      There may be many roads to Rome, but asking someone who has never been there, which is the best way to get there,
may not be the best approach.

  You can bet that I'll continue to tinker,   to the last consequences...  You all have no idea how badly I really need this device to work.

    I feel that our Russian friends will save the day, sooner or later.  At least I hope so...
   
   If there were "hundreds" of these devices in Europe, the Baltic area, and other places, one of them would have come to surface, already. But, there aren't.  Even Akula is probably not telling the truth when mentioning that he is even warming his house using this device.  At least he is still around and possibly available, when he feels like answering questions.

  Nice test box you build there, Grum. 

  I understand what Hoppy is saying. That you may only get out what you put into the thing. As that has been the case up to now.

[TinselKoala]

TSL235A + Arduino = highly accurate light power meter.

Here I made one to evaluate JT output power to an LED. You would of course make a dark box with a standard bulb appropriate to your device under test, and diffuse or baffle it appropriately for the sensor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kzf7S-pOEM

I just made this a couple of days ago and I'm in the process of recalibrating it to read DC equivalent power, as well as the more traditional irradiance of microWatts/cm².

I like Grumage's system a lot too. Very simple and effective!