Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

  Geo:
   I do take the voltage readings at the end of the secondary output coil (red wire). With a 25 watt bulb it reads 32 volts, and with no bulb (or load) it reads 35 volts. Only dropping by a couple of volts if adding a second 25 watt bulb, down to 30 volts. Obviously I need to have higher voltages for these bulbs to light properly. The Fets stay cool without  any bulbs connected while the oscillator is still on, and the meter reads 35 volts.

  I have another question. I tried to connect a couple of different Pc fans to cool the Fets, as they do get hot after about 3 to 5 minutes running time. But can get neither fan to spin. Both fans have three wires coming out of the fan, red, black, and yellow wires. But, no combination seams to get them to work on the 12v battery. Any ideas...

Nick,

The fans will need a filtered supply. Try a 10nF and 10uF across the fan red & black wires close to the fan. You may find a series resistor before the caps (under 100R) also helps. If this does not work, a separate supply will be needed. The yellow wire should be left disconnected as its a tacho lead. Check your fans work straight from a 12V battery in case they are damaged.

You will need quite a few more turns on your secondary winding to light higher wattage bulbs. If you do this, I would advise that you go for the bigger TO247 package mosfets which have higher power ratings.

[Ed morbus]

Hi I have tested with Royer circuit irfp260 mosfets
Ring toroid transformer pri 125v and sec 24v 25w bulb
12v 7AH battery 75% bright
with no load voltmeter go on tilt and go off

[Thaelin]

   For what its worth, the fan wires are red for +12  black for ground
and the yellow is the tach wire to tell the computer what speed its running
at. They are typically not protected so easy to blow up. That may be why
they do not run.

[Khwartz]

Hi Nick

Yes, perfect. Now I see, thnx for uploading the pictures, and haha Alot of cats I see lol
Hmmm soo the 100W bulbs work,. but don't light up at all.. that is odd.
did you measure the output as how I did it too right? just with the meter at the output coil?
yes the choke does play a role giving it more voltage in a way. But in many ways when i put bigger load, it gets hot over time.
Maybe we should introduce a Frequency generator to this Concept, raising the freq, for more brightness. more load .
Will see how I put this together already have an idea to this.

Cheerz

Hi! GeoFusion

Thanks for keep going and stay so alert to help everybody here who could need it :d

For the "odd" effect: remember that filaments in a 100 W are not the same than in an 50 W.

I mean: You don't have the same amount of truns inside and not necessarely in the same ratio! Not necessarely half turns in half nominal power consumption bulb!

All this to make everybody remembering that an incandescence light bulb for alternative current especially, have a reactive component, has in themselves a own harmonic frequency, etc., should probably to be care about in your kind of devices, and could explain few of other said "odd" behaviours when you change bulbs

Cheers.

[NickZ]

  Yes, each bulb lights in a different way, depending not just on the wattage, but the brand, as the voltage is the same, all are 110v.
  So, the load becomes part of the circuit, and some lower wattage bulbs, like a 40 watt bulb will light much less that a 50 watt bulb. Possibly a 60 or 75 watt bulb may light better yet. Although I can dimly light a 100watt bulb on 12v, 500mA, but not off of the battery.

  My pc fans are not burnt, but may need a start capacitor that may be included as part of the pc motherboard that they were original mounted on. Although one would think that kick starting the fan by spinning it be hand at first would start it, like a start cap would do, but it doesn't.