Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   Guys:
   I'm still trying to replicate the original Akula device? Maybe the only person in the world, now.
   One thing that seams clear, is that Akula's inverter was providing the yoke's secondary coil wire, (red coil wire)  220v + input from his 12v to 220v inverter. Which first goes through a full bridge rectifier, and is rectified to DC 320 volts, which is then fed to the  yoke's secondary coil (red wire).
  So, the yoke secondary was getting lots of DC voltage, straight from his inverter/rectifier circuit.
This secondary red coil wire is connected at the other (second end) of the red yoke wire, to a yellow wire which leads to the mosfet driver/tuning board. This tuning board also provides the pulsed AC input, to the yoke's primary coil, which is being pulsed by possibly over 220v AC.
So, both 220+plus volts AC, and 320v DC, from the two coils mutual induction, are working together on the same yoke transformer. Which are also tuned to a resonance sweet spot, possibly using the metal AC run capacitor connected to the thick 3 turn yoke output coil's LC tank circuit. All 4 coils (three on the yoke), are working together to this point. 
   Something like this diagram (below).  I'm sure that Grum and T-1000 remember it.
   Correct or add anything you feel is overlooked or needed:


 


 
 

[d3x0r]

Dear d3x0r.

With regard to the above video I have attached the schematic.

I have just come back from the lab after looking into this one "yet again" !! Now this scheme may look simple enough but that little box in the lower LH corner is in fact another switch !! It cannot be substituted with a Diode I have just failed with that !! I am able to raise voltage on output storage cap to 300 V within a few seconds with the diode removed but as soon as you reconnect the diode nothing happens.

I was using a 12 V LAB and a simple relay switch with change over contacts.  Driving into a 35 / 35 V  to 240 V transformer. L1 was my 240 V leg and L2 / L3 the 35 V legs. What is unknown is the timing. Could it be 1. 2. 3. in 360 deg's  ??

Perhaps someone could Sim this ?? I do know that L1 is 100 turns and L2&3 are 50 turns.

Cheers Grum.

The schematic has coils all together; but they say in the description that some are anit-phase...
where did you find the relation for the coils? although it makes sense somewhat that L2+L3 = L1

[NickZ]

  I just uploaded to youtube my first "Round Core" replication video.
  I just want you to know that I'm not claiming to light all the 500 watts of bulbs, to grid like brightness, or intensity, just what this old battery that I'm using for now, can do to those 5 bulbs. That's all.
  The bulbs are running on a old beat 4.5aH, 12v battery, but it can still light 5 100 watt bulbs, at least partially. The best light output is obtained by using only one or two 100w bulbs, but it can also light 500watts worth of bulbs, or even more bulbs.
I don't have a 1000 watt incandescent bulb, yet.
  The load that is drawn is shared by all the bulbs, and the magnetite magnets can also help to improve the overall lumin levels obtained.
  I still haven't got my order of the 0.33uf, tuning caps, so I expect that an even higher output can be achieved when those are installed. I know that it can be improved by doing so, as I've already run some preliminary cap tuning tests.

  So, I think that I've more than just replicated Geofusion's original "Round core with new circuit"  video where he's showing the lighting of 260 watt bulb load test, by almost double the amount of bulbs and watts.   
   Although the bulbs are only partially lit,  even as they are at this point, they can light up my house to a fairly usable degree. Of course, more light would be even better.
 
  Here's the link to my "Round Core Replication" - 01 video:

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSrTvodBoo0&list=PLMFbdQP8Qjcwcriv3jhkRXyURt04wVDn0

  BTW:  I just wanted to mention that I was also "BARE FOOt", and standing on a tile floor, you can even see my feet and toes, while standing on my labs tile floor (kitchen table), at the end of the video. 
  And, NO SHOCKS!  From any part of the circuit or bulbs.
  The "Ringing" can be partially reduced and controlled by tuning the running frequency, using the magnetite magnet(s). The stronger those magnets are, the better, as more light output is obtained.
 
 

[d3x0r]

Dear d3x0r.

With regard to the above video I have attached the schematic.

I have just come back from the lab after looking into this one "yet again" !! Now this scheme may look simple enough but that little box in the lower LH corner is in fact another switch !! It cannot be substituted with a Diode I have just failed with that !! I am able to raise voltage on output storage cap to 300 V within a few seconds with the diode removed but as soon as you reconnect the diode nothing happens.

I was using a 12 V LAB and a simple relay switch with change over contacts.  Driving into a 35 / 35 V  to 240 V transformer. L1 was my 240 V leg and L2 / L3 the 35 V legs. What is unknown is the timing. Could it be 1. 2. 3. in 360 deg's  ??

Perhaps someone could Sim this ?? I do know that L1 is 100 turns and L2&3 are 50 turns.

Cheers Grum.

Okay I built a sim using LTSpice; (Falstad doesn't have the right kind of coupled inductors). 


there is a couple signal generators... the top left is to 'initially charge the capacitor'  It is long enough to make sure there is a full charge, then the first pulse is after the power source is removed.


I used switches where possible, because they are more like digital components; mosfets have a potential slow rise/fall...


the -plot is the first cycle after having charged the capacitor.


The timing looks like you should open S1, allow current to flow to a maximum in L1, and then close S1/open S2.... if you wait too long, the energy in the capacitor is completely drained, and the maximum momentum is lost.   So it depends on your inductances/resistances.


Vn001 is the voltage in the capacitor C1
Vn005 is the voltage on the 'inside' of L2/L3 (the side not near ground)
  (this is drained through the switch, to ground when the S2 is closed)


I(L1) is the current through L1....


The issue I have with this simulation is the rising current I(L1) should produce a current in L2/L3... but; there is a voltage potential (Vn005) which is against this induction;so the simulation says no induction takes place.


1) a ferrite core will produce more feedback voltage... (inductors)http://collections.infocollections.org/ukedu/en/d/Jgtz041e/8.3.html  an air core doesn't have that spring back, and just goes back to 0... but a ferrite core will bounce all the way to the negative voltage the same as the positive; this is not represented. (can't really find external information which confirms this)


Adding a core does more than just increase inductance; it modifies the behavior of the coil.


So other than for purposes of projecting theoretical timing the sim does not demonstrate correctly the circuit.
Added other components to help it resemble reality; series resistances added to coils, some capacitance added..




*Since kapanadze thread is off of the page with a bad image, can we have the abililty to see images again; was page 1384, and we're at 1390 now*

[Grumage]

Okay I built a sim using LTSpice; (Falstad doesn't have the right kind of coupled inductors). 



The timing looks like you should open S1, allow current to flow to a maximum in L1, and then close S1/open S2.... if you wait too long, the energy in the capacitor is completely drained, and the maximum momentum is lost.   So it depends on your inductances/resistances.


*Since kapanadze thread is off of the page with a bad image, can we have the abililty to see images again; was page 1384, and we're at 1390 now*

Dear d3x0r.

Your efforts are greatly appreciated, thank you.

I have edited your quote to a couple of important statements. Yes you are quite right as regards the length of time the inductor is being charged. Dear Verpies provided us all some time back with a graph showing the optimum time the inductor requires to fully charge. After this time any extra energy applied is wasted as heat etc. The Greek letter Tau is fixed in my head but as to the link, sorry that has gone !!

And secondly, Dear Stefan, PLEASE,PLEASE,PLEASE GET US BACK TO THE OU. com we were used to. I find the downloading of images both tedious and frustrating !! My PC always has to do a retry for every image !! Surely a simple program could be developed to stop/block any images that are too large for the system to handle ?? Alternatively BAN the inconsiderate ******ds !! 

Rant over, Cheers Grum.