Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  I would think that I'm pulling less than 4 amps at 11 to 12v from the battery.
  Here (below) is a previous video, (sorry about it being so blurry).
It shows the feed back path that I have used to connect back to the input side. Although this works to a degree, but it's still not self running. It may help to keep the battery from discharging at the same rate though. Similar to what Igor's video (below) is showing.
  More tuning caps and 18v zeners are needed, along with further tuning of the feed back coil windings, etz...
  My MRG feed back loop video:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbSJx91vtO4

  Here is Igor's latest video:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiwyiJOrSWk&list=UUVesA155Der2tRd5vpyYdJw
       or look for it yourself if this link doesn't get you there.
 
 

[Hoppy]

  I would think that I'm pulling less than 4 amps at 11 to 12v from the battery.

Nick,

That would be around 48W and divided between 6 lamps, would be around 6W per lamp, allowing for power losses in the oscillator and additional coils. I think you have more than that but of course its not really possible to tell from just looking at the brightness of the lamps, especially on a video that invariably enhances the level of illumination to the eye.

[NickZ]

   Hoppy:
   Ok, thanks for your calculations.

   Even if I'm pulling 10 watts per lamp, try to light a 100 watt bulb on just 10 watts, normally.
  The camera compensation is dropping the actual bulb brightness, not making it look brighter than they actually are. If I even glance into the 150w flood light, I'm blinded for a while.
  I still think that I'm probably pulling more like about 1/2 of that, or about 5 watts per 100 watt load.
  In any case, it's still a very economical device, that can be connected to solar, etz...

  Hoppy, if one were to connect a 12v battery to a regular inverter to light 650 watts load, you would find that the total draw would be higher than 650w. More like about 800 watts.
Even if the bulbs are not fully lit on my device, the 35 to 48 watt draw is less than 1/10 or 1/20 of what a normal battery to inverter would draw. 
So, this is very promising...
 

[Hoppy]

Nick,

The only way to be sure what current your battery is delivering, is to measure it properly. Only then can you determine the power consumption with any degree of confidence.

[NickZ]

   Perhaps you can help to test for this load draw, as I can't read it, nor am I actually interested in the input to output readings. I only comment about this because it has been brought up.  I'm still racking my head over a working feed back path.
  But, as mentioned, if the draw per bulb is only 5 to 10 watts or so for every 100 watt bulb, I would tend to think that that's not too shabby. This can also be improved by further tuning.
  Last night I connected a second yoke to the output of the first one. This second yoke's output is then rectified through a common bridge, then goes to a 200v 470uf electrolytic cap, which is connected to the input side. The results were not as good as when using the MRG coil, connected to the yoke output, and feeding that output to the input. As the rectifier gets very hot, somewhat like what Akula's first device did.
  But, the yoke's output does seam to be much higher than that of the flyback, e-cores, or any other core that I've used so far. And so the additional heat at the rectifier may be due to that as well.