Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Ok, thanks a bunch guys for the info on the rectifiers. 

  I looked deeper into my electronics junk pile, and also found 4 of theses Schottky diodes : 
   STPS3045CT
   7SAGH  VW   
   PHL  702
  Which are rated a only 45v, and something like 15 amps or so, (I can't remember).
Do you think that as I have 4 of them, this may be a better way to go for now?
I can always change them if they don't work out.

I'm trying to return only about 13 volts DC, or so, from the rectifier/cap loop back to the circuit input, so as to not blow my 12v zeners with too high a voltage.
  Second yoke's core output (feed back yoke coil, red wire)  has about 70 to 80 volts AC, and the DC output once rectified was about 13v, this is also with a cap placed in parallel to the rectifier. I'm still testing to see which electrolytic caps work best.
  The feed back coils AC output can be adjusted by removing or adding turns on the smaller yoke's red coil wire.
  What I also need help on, is a diagram that shows how to connect theses 4 STP diodes together, and onto my feed back circuit. Similar to what Igor Moroz has been doing with his rectifier bank, to recuperate the BEMF, and send that to a cap bank, then back to the input side.  So, that's the plan,  Sam.
  I appreciate your help, from all of you.
               Thanks, again.
                                      NickZ

[MenofFather]

  Ok, guys:
   I've come across these two 200v, 20 amp rectifiers. I'm hoping that I can use them instead of a full wave bridge rectifier. As they seam to be fairly hefty, and I've mounted them on a heatsink, as well.
  Can someone direct me as to how to connect them up to my feed back coil, and feed back capacitor. Also, if anyone has any idea as to what capacitor(s) may work best for this feed back path, please let me know, especially if you've tried it yourself.
 
  The value on these high power switching mode rectifiers is:
   LT 448
   MBR20100CT

   Data Sheet: http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-7080483806733188774

"[size=78%]Can someone direct me as to how to connect them up to my feed back coil"[/size]
Nohow. You can only conect them in paralel and have half rectifing. Or you can use center tap from secondary coil, then like Don Smith make. Look how need conect bridge http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Diode_bridge_smoothing.svg/600px-Diode_bridge_smoothing.svg.png


By the way, one gay, who say, that replicated Dally divice, write me, then I ask him, that in his divice frenquency of nanosecond pulses is 553 or something like that, kiloherc (now not remember 523 or 532 or...). And coaxial cable not shorted at end. Other frenquency 27 kiloherc.

[gyulasun]

Hi NickZ,

I have drawn a possible schematic for looping back your AC output (red wire) to the DC input of your setup. It seems that if we accept the 70 to 80V AC output as correct,  then you have no enough diodes at the moment to safely rectify it. The 45V diodes (3045CT) may break down at the first switch-on. The MBR20100 types may work ok but you would need two more to build the 4 diode full wave bridge.

The possible feedback could be done via a series diode (I indicated it with a single MBR20100 (but a single 3045CT is good here too), the two diodes in the single package should be connected in parallel (MenofFather mentioned this too).

The loop back process would be: after building the setup as per the drawing, preload the output of the diode bridge with a 12V lamp of a few Watts (Capacitor Cp1 is to be tested for value, at least some 1000uF) and switch S is ON of course and then switch on the feedback switch Sfb and if you find no big change at anywhere (and the diode bridge does not heat up like earlier),  then switch off the input 12V battery with switch S for just a moment. 
And be careful to switch it on again quickly IF the brightness of the lamps starts suddenly increase... the battery can act as a very good 12V voltage hence current stabilizer: in case the output power is higher than input then a run-away situation happens when activating the feedback if there is no any voltage or current regulation embedded in the setup.
Ideally the feedback should be done by a hefty 12V DC-DC converter capable of supplying the 4-5A load current your setup may consume and such a converter should have a stabilized 12V output. The efficiency of such a converter can be around 90% so your setup should provide at least 110% (COP=1.1) to maintain just a self-run, without any additional outside load.

You mention the possibility of removing some turns from the red wire output coil: this is okay but then the received DC output voltage may not be enough for feedback from the diode bridge output.
Still you may try to remove some turns to arrive at say 40-45V AC output across the red coil and use the two diode full wave voltage double rectifier schematic I referred to above to arrive at the 13 to 15V DC across the Cp1 puffer cap (preloaded with a small lamp of a few watts). For this doubler rectifier you could use the two 100V MBR20100 types (individually connected them in parallel) and for the feedback then you could use one STPS3045 (also paralleled of course).

Gyula

[magpwr]

Hi NickZ,

I have drawn a possible schematic for looping back your AC output (red wire) to the DC input of your setup. It seems that if we accept the 70 to 80V AC output as correct,  then you have no enough diodes at the moment to safely rectify it. The 45V diodes (3045CT) may break down at the first switch-on. The MBR20100 types may work ok but you would need two more to build the 4 diode full wave bridge.

The possible feedback could be done via a series diode (I indicated it with a single MBR20100 (but a single 3045CT is good here too), the two diodes in the single package should be connected in parallel (MenofFather mentioned this too).

The loop back process would be: after building the setup as per the drawing, preload the output of the diode bridge with a 12V lamp of a few Watts (Capacitor Cp1 is to be tested for value, at least some 1000uF) and switch S is ON of course and then switch on the feedback switch Sfb and if you find no big change at anywhere (and the diode bridge does not heat up like earlier),  then switch off the input 12V battery with switch S for just a moment. 
And be careful to switch it on again quickly IF the brightness of the lamps starts suddenly increase... the battery can act as a very good 12V voltage hence current stabilizer: in case the output power is higher than input then a run-away situation happens when activating the feedback if there is no any voltage or current regulation embedded in the setup.
Ideally the feedback should be done by a hefty 12V DC-DC converter capable of supplying the 4-5A load current your setup may consume and such a converter should have a stabilized 12V output. The efficiency of such a converter can be around 90% so your setup should provide at least 110% (COP=1.1) to maintain just a self-run, without any additional outside load.

You mention the possibility of removing some turns from the red wire output coil: this is okay but then the received DC output voltage may not be enough for feedback from the diode bridge output.
Still you may try to remove some turns to arrive at say 40-45V AC output across the red coil and use the two diode full wave voltage double rectifier schematic I referred to above to arrive at the 13 to 15V DC across the Cp1 puffer cap (preloaded with a small lamp of a few watts). For this doubler rectifier you could use the two 100V MBR20100 types (individually connected them in parallel) and for the feedback then you could use one STPS3045 (also paralleled of course).

Gyula

hi Nickz and gyulasun,

Few days back i have achieve OU in the sense that once i kick start 4700uf capacitor with a touch from 3.9volt Li-Ion battery.
I am using the same 3inch green toroid with 37 turns secondary and connected "10" 0 "10" turns -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u6gAUPlnTQ
capacitor(-) is connected to mosfet (source)and signal to mosfet is supply via  1k resistor from signal generator and connected to cap (-).The collector of mosfet is connected to 10 turns and the other end to cap (+).

Using 1 diode from secondary connected to capacitor(+) and another secondary output connected to cap(-) at 2500khz  with 2% or  3% duty cycle only then i noticed the capacitor voltage is going up to around 3+volts without battery connected at all.   

My experiment revealed using 1 fast response diode produce result (capacitor voltage does go up without battery) produce results as compared to using full bridge consisting of 4 fast response diode 600volts(which is overkill for this experiment)which does not allow capacitor to sustain or increase in voltage but just the usual circuit current draw.

ButI was not too happy as the ou gain is in uA or <10mA.Someone did mentioned about this TS020 i think(not sure) a 1uA at 1v oscillator but i think it only do 50% duty cycle .








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u6gAUPlnTQ


Base on my rahter recent experiment

[gyulasun]

Hi magpwr,

I think I understand your test circuit (I mean its schematic, I made a quick sketch for myself as per your description).
What I do not get is: why you say you have achieved OU in ANY sense? Would like to understand your thinking.

I think you would have to consider the input power your signal generator provides for your circuit. It is okay you use
very low duty cycle, it makes input power surely low but I believe it can be enough to maintain 3+Volts in the 4700uF
after disconnecting the 3.9V battery.  And if you use the diode bridge instead of the single diode, the forward voltage
loss doubles (the charge current has to go through two diodes in the bridge) and the remaining lower current cannot
maintain the charge in the cap any more.
So this can also happen in this test circuit. You (we) do not know that in the single good diode's case how much excess
current would remain over the charge-maintaining current, which would be already enough to feed a tiny 2.5MHz pulse
oscillator with a few uA consumption from the 3+V cap voltage (provided of course that a low duty 2.5MHz  oscillator
could be built with a 1-2uA current draw, this may be possible).   
Would you tell the 2.5MHz input amplitude to the gate-source what the signal generator gives at its output? Just curious.

Thanks,  Gyula