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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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Hoppy

#5635
October 07, 2014, 12:43:06 PM
Quote from: NickZ on October 07, 2014, 12:16:08 PM
 
   I'm bit excited, as I got my new 12, 7ah battery fully charged now.
The battery would not charge up when using a 12v, 2 amp wall adapter, but it does charge when I used my car battery charger on it.
NOW, the 100w bulbs are brighter, and the Mazilli/yoke core cranks...
  So, now I can continue with connecting the air coils, the Kacher crt, and further testing and tuning.

  My idea was to compare my yoke's output to what your device and yoke's output can do by itself, while lighting some of the same type voltage/wattage bulbs. But, as some of you are using the 220 volt bulbs, and I use the 110v ones, that may not be a proper comparison.
  I still have a heat issue with the fets (one of the two IRFP260N), which I'm hoping to resolve to some degree by the addition of the air coils, as they are would cw, ccw, and should be self cancelling.
We'll see...

Nick,

If your 10A charger is designed to charge auto type wet cell batteries, the you stand to damage your 7A/hr SLA battery. Try to obtain a charger designed for charging SLA's. Also run a 12V PC fan to cool your heat sinks.

NickZ

#5637
October 07, 2014, 12:59:13 PM
  quote from Hoppy:
  "It also makes more sense to me that the kacher primary is powered from the main supply rail and pulsed by the nano-pulser".
 
   Agreed!  I've tried connecting the Kacher previously from the output of yoke, but
it takes too much draw or can cause some interference to that source. Be it from the 3 turns coil, or the bigger yoke secondary 24-28 turns coil.
In anycase, I'll use the Kacher connected to the main 12v battery input source, this time to see what happens, now that my new 12v battery is working properly.

Hoppy

#5638
October 07, 2014, 02:10:36 PM
The spec on the varistor sitting across the IGBT is as follows: -

300V AC, 385V DC, 1W. A better solution might be to fit an 'active clamp' from drain to gate, consiting of a couple of transils (TVS diodes) rated at say 150v and a fast schottky diode all in series. This should at least prevent the IGBT from getting spiked or smoking if its shorted out for any reason.
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