Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[itsu]

Jeg,


Well, 800V (pp i guess) is much better then what you had earlier, i have about 570V pp across the inductor or wima caps.


The polarity does not matter, there should be / is a FWBR in that PS which will lead the positive always to the positive rail, draw it out then you will see.

Be aware that the DC voltage can go higher then 220V when using different loads, i have to load the Grenade with a 40W bulb to get around 212V DC.
If i use more load (100W), the DC voltage stays to low, if using less load it can go (too) high.

Off course, your 24V PS is different then mine, so no garanties 

I made a little video about my new loss-less clamp yoke now with the 28 turn secondary also installed, showing the both polarities ±212V DC connected to my 24V PS.

(The blue DMM does not change polarity as it was measuring the input which did not change when i turned the plug, therefor i made 2 pictures showing both polarities as input and its output, see below)

video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WHvVsTFTEs


Regards Itsu

[Dog-One]

Looks really good what you have so far Itsu.

You may want to try putting a controlled load on the output of the 24 volt power supply just to get a feel for the efficiency of your system.  I know my power supply will begin to oscillate at about one or two Hertz when power demand begins to exceed power input--I'm sure this has to do with the size of caps inside the power supply.  It's very possible with the loss-less clamps you don't need much to hit unity.  If you can add the proper signal mixing...

A looper might be just around the corner.   


M@

[starcruiser]

remember the 220vac is the RMS voltage not the P-P voltage. RMS is roughly 70% of the P-P and the 220 is only 1/2 of the P-P

since the 220V is rms voltage, which comes to +-312V peak (220/0.707), so peak to peak is 624V

[Jeg]

Jeg,
Well, 800V (pp i guess) is much better then what you had earlier....

If you consider that my previous setup was giving me something about 350Vpk-pk, then 800V pk-pk seems a good level.

The polarity does not matter, there should be / is a FWBR in that PS which will lead the positive always to the positive rail, draw it out then you will see.

Be aware that the DC voltage can go higher then 220V when using different loads, i have to load the Grenade with a 40W bulb to get around 212V DC.
If i use more load (100W), the DC voltage stays to low, if using less load it can go (too) high.

Off course, your 24V PS is different then mine, so no garanties 

I made a little video about my new loss-less clamp yoke now with the 28 turn secondary also installed, showing the both polarities ±212V DC connected to my 24V PS.

(The blue DMM does not change polarity as it was measuring the input which did not change when i turned the plug, therefor i made 2 pictures showing both polarities as input and its output, see below)

video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WHvVsTFTEs


Regards Itsu

Thanks for your opinion and also for the video. Your lossless clamp seems so ideal for this job!!!
I'll try to do the same experiment today with my +24V psu, and i'll make a video.

I wonder with just your inductor line in place (without using the 28T), what is the voltage levels that you reach across your output capacitor when your load is this 40W bulb?

Well. there is something more. It was happening to me while experimenting with my old push pull board but as i see, it also happens now with my new board. Even that now i use a ground plane, when i approach my finger close to the pot that varies pwm (tl494), a strange noise like hissing appears. The same time i see the current needle at my input to fluctuate. When i take my hand over the pot, this hissing sound disappears. Have you ever noticed something like that with your board? I use the attached schema.

ps.1 It doesn't happen the same with the frequency pot. hmm. I wonder if my body's capacitance affects the capacity that pin5 sees.  (CT=10nF)

ps.2 With a plastic screwdriver there is not any hissing. With metal screwdriver or with just my bare finger, hissing appears when i am as close to the pot as 1cm.

[itsu]

Dog and Starcruiser,  thanks,

yes i could try to load the 24V PS to see what effect that has on the 24V battery input.



Jeg,

i will measure the voltage level across the output cap with 40W bulb installed and the 28 turn secondary disconnected later tonight.

The hissing sound is very familiar, it happened with all my yoke setups, i call it the chaotic mode as the scope shows chaotic signals (MHz range).
I had it very strong with this same setup, but traced it down to a faulty soldering (using leadfree solder  ) of one of the TL494 output to ground resistors.
I had 1K Ohm resistors there (i see you have 600 and/or 800 Ohm), but verpies adviced to load it more to 100 or even 68 Ohm for better stability.
Be aware that with 15V on the TL494 at 100 Ohm they can get rather warm, so use 2W resistors or more.

Anyway that bad case of hissing went away, but still i have it now and then, especially when approaching resonance (short bursts only) or around the lower TL494 range = 11KHz.

Other things i did before i found the bad soldering was:
# use solidly decoupled supply voltage for the TL494 and drivers
# use short leads between TL494 and driver.
# use lower TL494 output to ground resistors, see data sheet.
# removed the metal clamps holding the yokes halfs together
# make sure the 3 turn winding is NOT directly over one of the Yoke splits (but 90° apart).
# isolate the yoke halfs with paper or in my case electrical tape.

Anyway, the hissing sound in the yoke and the movement of the current needles of my batteries input still happens sometime.

Itsu