Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Belfior]

I just watched some videos from kapanadze and Akula translated by stivep. It seems 80% of the circuit is just junk added to make it all look more difficult than it is. Now before I buy Kachers and all the rest I would like to know if there is any indication that it is all actually needed? Spark gap/Kacher and the yoke make sense, but can I replace the Tesla coils with a banana?

[itsu]

Nick,

it is very tiresome to keep up with you as you tend to skip advices given, do something completly different as adviced
and then again ask advice and suggestion for your new situation.
I think you should focus more on your present problem and fix them before going on,
perhaps go eat a snickers:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM4aD_B3WYA

Your drain signals look very different from each other, so there is something wrong.
As mentioned severall times now, your measured resistance (118 138 Ohm) is way to low, but you give no details on how you
measure it.  Also you give no info on if the MOSFET switches to 0 Ohm when touching the gate as adviced.

The advice to lower the duty cycle as the gate signals show almost no dead time inbetween is also ignored i think.

If your yoke is wound OK, which you should simply find out by looking at it, then no need to build a new one
Make sure its balanced (2x 12 turns same direction) and keep the 3 turns also in the same direction.

If you want to look into the lossless clamp setup, then look for the diagram in this thread as it was published severall times.
I had good results with it, but my system also worked reasonable well with snubbers, and that is not the case with you.
If your TL/UC board works OK (balanced) it should be OK for a lossless clamp setup.

To suppress peaks and ringing, your system needs to be working balanced first, then we can calculate again the ringing frequency
and try to calculate the values for an RC snubber filter.

Itsu

[Hoppy]

Nick,

Assuming your resistance readings are correct (measured with mosfets disconnected out of circuit), then as Itsu has pointed out a few times, your mosfets are shot. I advised you a long time back to obtain a current limited power supply for use whilst experimenting / tuning, as you run the risk of smoking even more mosfets! As Itsu advises, make sure you initially run on low duty cycle. Don't run with the yoke connected without snubbers and don't run with a 24V supply until your waveforms look reasonably decent at all duty cycle settings.

I see no point in you switching over to a lossless clamp at least until you have reasonable looking waveforms and even then, why do this when all of the claimed self-runners you have seen, do not utilise them?

[AlienGrey]

Nick,

it is very tiresome to keep up with you as you tend to skip advices given, do something completly different as adviced
and then again ask advice and suggestion for your new situation.
I think you should focus more on your present problem and fix them before going on,
perhaps go eat a snickers:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM4aD_B3WYA

Your drain signals look very different from each other, so there is something wrong.
As mentioned severall times now, your measured resistance (118 138 Ohm) is way to low, but you give no details on how you
measure it.  Also you give no info on if the MOSFET switches to 0 Ohm when touching the gate as adviced.

The advice to lower the duty cycle as the gate signals show almost no dead time inbetween is also ignored i think.

If your yoke is wound OK, which you should simply find out by looking at it, then no need to build a new one
Make sure its balanced (2x 12 turns same direction) and keep the 3 turns also in the same direction.

If you want to look into the lossless clamp setup, then look for the diagram in this thread as it was published severall times.
I had good results with it, but my system also worked reasonable well with snubbers, and that is not the case with you.
If your TL/UC board works OK (balanced) it should be OK for a lossless clamp setup.

To suppress peaks and ringing, your system needs to be working balanced first, then we can calculate again the ringing frequency
and try to calculate the values for an RC snubber filter.

Itsu

yes know what you mean!  100 R pull down you will be lucky if they don't blow something i used 680 or was it 820 R, any how on the brighter side he has kept the thread going but in saying that you could get an effect by just playing with a simple signal generator and a capacitor of the correct value and .47 uf is not it. you need to experiment rather than just building it and expecting a miracle !  playing is the key to cutting out the B>S. but you have to find the BS to cut out your self, Allen

[NickZ]

Nick,

it is very tiresome to keep up with you as you tend to skip advices given, do something completly different as adviced
and then again ask advice and suggestion for your new situation.
I think you should focus more on your present problem and fix them before going on,
perhaps go eat a snickers:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM4aD_B3WYA

Your drain signals look very different from each other, so there is something wrong.
As mentioned severall times now, your measured resistance (118 138 Ohm) is way to low, but you give no details on how you
measure it.  Also you give no info on if the MOSFET switches to 0 Ohm when touching the gate as adviced.

The advice to lower the duty cycle as the gate signals show almost no dead time inbetween is also ignored i think.

If your yoke is wound OK, which you should simply find out by looking at it, then no need to build a new one
Make sure its balanced (2x 12 turns same direction) and keep the 3 turns also in the same direction.

If you want to look into the lossless clamp setup, then look for the diagram in this thread as it was published severall times.
I had good results with it, but my system also worked reasonable well with snubbers, and that is not the case with you.
If your TL/UC board works OK (balanced) it should be OK for a lossless clamp setup.

To suppress peaks and ringing, your system needs to be working balanced first, then we can calculate again the ringing frequency
and try to calculate the values for an RC snubber filter.

Itsu

   Itsu:  Ok, I had the snicker bar.  I'm me now...

   I did do what you suggested. I measured all my fet's resistance values, and found that they are all different. The ones that are closest to a similar value are the ones that I mentioned. 118, and 138 ohms. If touching the gate does not go to 0,  I would considering it a dead fet. I tested about 8 different fets (that aren't dead), and none of them gave the readings like yours do. They were measured as you suggested. And which I have always done, in the same way.  As I've mentioned, I have order some more new fets. But, the two that I've mentioned are still new and measure the same as when I got them.

   I have always had the unbalanced condition on the yoke, so that is why I'm winding a new one, as I think part of the problem may be due to the YOKE, or it's windings. Therefore I'm testing a new one. And I'll know more about it later today.

   Stalkers yoke windings are not all in the same direction, and he does obtain self runners. So... that's why I'm making a new yoke with opposite windings. And also to make sure that the winding are all exactly the same.

   The gate signals are fine, the setting were on the full duty cycle on the blurry picture that I uploaded. But, at times they will also fire at the same time when adjusting the duty cycle, or frequency controls. This I believe may be due to the unbalanced condition. But, the TL/UC board works fine when the yoke is not connected up. Therefore I suspect the yoke to be part of the cause of the unbalanced condition. And is why I'm doing something about that. Not to detour from your suggestion, as I have always followed them, the best that I can.
   Anyways, I don't want to tire you out. Or myself, for that matter.  So, sorry for doing so.