Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   I doubt it Hoppy. As Tariel did not even have a yoke on his device. Just air.
So, then NMR from the air?  Maybe,  that's what Akula said, according to T-1000. But again,  I doubt it.

   I was up till 1am again last night working on this spike/ringing snubber protection thing, which is no easy matter to achieve.
   I'm still working on it.
   
    Itsu: So, what exact ringing frequency should I be aiming for then? Around 900KHz, or so? In order to tame the ringing to 1/2.
As it's a bit confusing to me still especially when using this older scope with no readings to go by, and having to do all the math.        I may not have all the exact needed capacitors for this test, either. Therefore I don't have a full assortment to chose from.
Should I try a 102, instead of the 152, or the 222. I tried the varistor 14D271 on as well. But, it doesn't drop the voltage under 200v.  So, I'll stop trying to get the voltage down under 200v, for now, and focus on the 1/2 ringing frequency.

   Once I can also get the ringing down to under 160v or so, I'll place the new fets on. As the new fet could fry before I know it, at 250v or higher voltages. And I don't have access to other car bulbs for now.
   If I use a 12v power source (7AH battery) for the yoke input, won't that change the ringing frequency? And confuse the needed ringing clamp voltages?
 
    The older fets are working well enough to test with, and get into the snubber ball park. Once those fet are working under 200v, I'll place the new fets on. And also re-test and re-adjust the snubber ringing using a higher load at the bulbs.
Maybe one of my new 200w bulbs, (or two, or three bulbs) on the output should drop the voltage somewhat. 
On the Mazilli those bulbs would actually raise the voltage, instead of dropping it.

   I'm wondering now, what will happen when I connect my Kacher onto the induction circuit. It has 5mm streamers, so it's over 5000v. What will happen then... Should I look for smoke signals? While keeping the scope further away from the flames.
Anyways, I'm not there yet.
 

[Hoppy]

   I doubt it Hoppy. As Tariel did not even have a yoke on his device.

A yoke is not the be all or end all Nick for use as a transformer core.  Anyway, could you see inside Tariels green box or tin box etc?? Even my magnifying glass won't let me do that.

You will be wasting your time with working out the snubber values using your 24V bulb, as you need to have a supply current that is limited but in the same ball park as that expected when you have a reasonablly sized lamp load. This is why I suggested that you get hold of a couple of 12V/50W auto lamps that will give you up to around an 8A draw with two in series / parallel or 4A with just one in series with the PSU supply line.

[itsu]

Nick,

you should try to half the ringing frequency you have, by adding a cap across the drain / source.
A lower voltage should not influence this ringing frequency as it mainly is caused by the inductances and capacitances of your yoke coils (primary and secondaries).

Last screenshot you showed a ringing frequency of 1.98Mhz, so based on that you should try to aim for 900Khz ringing frequency by adding a cap.
I think it would be more easy for you to wait for your new scope which probably shows you the ringing frequency (expanded) in boxes on the screen.

I cannot calculate this half ringing frequency for you as you have a unique setup there, so you have to find it yourself by trying out different values of caps.
The procedure i have linked says to start with 100pF and continue from there untill you find the correct cap.
You don't have to solder in the caps each time, just carefully make a connection with a drain / source and see on your scope what it does.
You should see a double time inbetween the 2 ringing peaks, that means half the frequency.


My kacher had little or no effect on the yoke signals, but it could influence / damage electronic stuff around it (scopes, PS's, DMM's, laptops, etc.).

Itsu

[AlienGrey]

A yoke is not the be all or end all Nick for use as a transformer core.  Anyway, could you see inside Tariels green box or tin box etc?? Even my magnifying glass won't let me do that.

You will be wasting your time with working out the snubber values using your 24V bulb, as you need to have a supply current that is limited but in the same ball park as that expected when you have a reasonablly sized lamp load. This is why I suggested that you get hold of a couple of 12V/50W auto lamps that will give you up to around an 8A draw with two in series / parallel or 5A with just one in series with the PSU supply line.

The Hoppy / Nick transformer thing there is another device where some guy (i don't know SR193) forget his name uses a similar size  tube with a EHT driver and winding driven by a tuned frequency and what looks like a grenade on top a bit like the Don Smith thing) my point is this (ignoring negative stupidity) as Nick said no yoke, well if he uses no yoke the must go in at HF end  the frequency) are you with me up till now ?  well if the Mustash WV is 3 x F what is F ? or perhaps a harmonic all you have to go is find your magic frequency where you live and you're in business? but at a perhaps reduced power? if the phenomena works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbkvXoDfk7g

Also TK clip with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4fEkoPQIQo

[forest]

About Kapanadze 2004 year device : there is a very interesting moment when he cannot get spark from the inverter powered by a battery and they talk about battery being flat.