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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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0 Members and 29 Guests are viewing this topic.

EMJunkie





Appologies, but if I may post my opinion and experience here as to why most people fail this replication:


Quote


Kind time of day. Maybe here we will find a common language. At once I will say that I do not sit at forums much. No time ! However, now for the 5th time I am collecting Akulin for a capacity increase. There are ideas ....

But in fact the people are looking for a bit of everything is not right.

All these systems operate on the basis of standing and traveling waves.

It is necessary first to catch the motion of particles in the coil. Those. as Kapanadze does with a tester or an ammeter.



Only at HF frequencies no ammeter will help and you will need to catch an oscilloscope.
   The first rule: Wind the coil 40 meters.
   2. Find out its resonant frequency (1/4 wave) Inductor 1/4 = 10 meters of the same wire (for example, 2.5mm) Connect the generator to a 10 meter coil, drive the rectangles at a frequency of 1 MHz and crawl higher until 40 meters do not appear sinusoid. The maximum amplitude. The generator is desirable to take a normal, laboratory! With output adjustment from 0 to 20 volts. We achieve maximum amplitude and move tenths of a kilohertz until it starts to dance. This is your wave resonance !!! We fix the frequency and voltage. It is for this all have to do the generators.

Further ... Tesla we shake under this frequency that the effect has turned out. Then we do everything as I did or the Shark. In this case, everyone wants to repeat this device. Forward! We fix everything beautifully and stiffly, without forgetting that the resonance and effect can escape in the case of fastenings on the snot. We need to get the effect itself and work, and not a ready device.

Once you begin to understand what to do next, you can already move. So .... Tesla, as we know, also wets the sinusoid. Suppose your frequency is 1.821MHz. The frequency, but alas. It is necessary to adjust Tesla on it. The shark used a critic between Tesla and the toroid (Antenna) over the inductor. This is just an accurate adjustment. It is needed before launching. Then the system holds and no matter what has slipped in not large limits. But! Again ... What where? On the Inductor we feed the signal of rectangles with a frequency of 1/50. Consider: 1820: 50 = 36.4 kHz pumping a rectangle through the junction (Pot) with 23-29 turns of wire 2.5 squares.

I repeat, you need to make the voltage on this harmonic not 10-20 volts, but higher by an order of magnitude. Approximately up to 50-60 volts and get the same dancing effect at the output. Further ! Do not forget that Tesla does not need strong power. Do not let sparks run and wet so that it breaks through. This is not necessary !!! It's better to make a controlled Tesla. Continue: The output voltage will be 195-200 volts. This voltage will not be higher. Why? Later we will return to this. It is necessary to rewind the transformer-reactor (Coil) so as to obtain the desired voltage. This requires experiments. Remember that we push the current in the reactor with a transverse wave. Created by Tesla. In the coil another wave is formed under the action of pumping by rectangles. The particles of which constantly rotate left and right. By giving them the movement of the pulsating Tesla, we disperse them in the very conductor. This is a gemmoroid understanding, but a fact. Tesla must operate in one half-cycle or one arm of the transistor. It is advisable to manage the Tesla pack - pulse generator. When everything is clearly adjusted, you will see how the effect manifests when changing the width of the pack. Consumption Tesla is scanty, and pumping does not strain at all.

The current at the output is up to 7 amperes and the voltage is 200-209 volts. Bulbs and PSU pulses work well. Now for removal:
   1. The coil is connected via a diode bridge. No parallel capacitors !!!
   2. You need from Tesla only one half wave. Otherwise Tesla will take what she gave, back !!! Therefore, and put the diode from the ground to the very take-off coil (40m) The shark did this at the reception. He removed one part of the sine at the reception itself. Because Tesla. No one knows this and -bip-tsya to this day, nichrome does not work. It's clear! You need to swing the swing in the coil of energy removal.

It is there that we push the current. By the way, the surplus from Tesla and the frequency setting of the Shark used a simple light bulb. Since the Inductor is galvanically isolated from the entire circuit, the light bulb serves as a resistive load to suppress surplus from cords and pickups. You can not bet, but do not rock Tesla very much. Do not ! Remember that the current is subject to voltage. This I see from experiments that I spent 2 more years ago. Next: The diode on the receiving take-off coil destroys one half-cycle and so we swing the oscillations without hindering them by the negative Tesla period. This, too, many do not know and continue to sculpt. That's why Roman (Shark) says that he is eating ground ... Everything is right!

Because it kills the half-period pulse at the reception, which is grounded. This can be seen in all his settings! I wondered for a long time why he decided to use this solution and realized that it's easier to pick up BB diodes. Since interference at such frequencies in Tesla will lead to its improper operation. In other words, it will not be possible to cut off the half-period. Kapa solved this issue with an arrester and rectifiers at low frequencies. There everything is simpler, but more wires .... So on the German installation the diode is small, Tesla is far away, the grounding cable is long. By the way is equal to the length of Tesla !!! Do not forget about grounding .... On this installation it is important and without good support (grounding) will not work. Do not forget that the systems use high voltage. As we know, it moves even in the air. That's why grounding is necessary. Plus wave resonance and safety .... Like that .....

Ref: Ruslan K





Connect this information to this Video and Translation:

https://youtu.be/_GO2ADSPbK0


Quote


and Oleg hello here look here such here
diagrams to you should have that moment
when you tune a standing wave here
when you deploy it
it should be like this just like that
you can get
then what do you need if you twist it she
will swim like this
Makarom
nothing else, if I am changing now
generator frequency before that is see
now 32 kilohertz now see
I will change, I will decrease, and although
no, I'll leave what I had now
there 32 yes that is, here we reduce the voltage
see what happens all the effects
Now yes, that is, it is practically absent
then that is the effect they are almost
so weak, weak but on certain
frequencies it will be strong yes that is it
I'm telling you once, look, look here.
quite imperceptibly if you twist it well
almost this standing wave no yes here it is
and then something is dancing this garbage
raise your tension here raise
tension raised a little
nothing yes that is no effect
raise about and go all go now
reflected wave here it is yes that is but
she is shifted a little bit to do so
so that it is not displaced yes that is, here
look here we adjust the frequency to such
degrees to stop
that is, it should be clearly well, at least
more or less to get
this is the main point that should
be he now if so look she
here it is 180 degrees to a turn and here
that is, she turns over here
now now if it's all stick together
together there will be such a picture here
she runs
that's what I can say the moment when
here the blow is an impulse here to this place
somewhere here right here at this moment goes
and as they say goes the same current
which we need here we need to achieve
if you do not achieve that is
it turns out if he
for example a twisting statue
there is the edge of a normal sine wave
nothing special is formed here yes
Now I'll untwist them stronger here she is
ordinary sine wave chose nothing
the usual
and she, as it were, has nothing underneath
no tone especially nothing happens
the one who loves is popping twitches
there is no standing wave
standing wave it is usually in such
Now I'll show you how Cyril
hi, in general, in short
achieve such a picture flooring about
column here pay attention
everything jumps doesn't mean if you look at what
shows 2 oscilloscopes tears return
this whole picture is how it is before
she cannot be stopped yes she is moving
constantly, well, that is, how would you
they tried to slow down the trigger
particles move
here they are it all here is such a picture
you should have flooring brofists
push apart this is a dancing sine wave but
it's not so visible but if
twist such fish run here and on
this oscilloscope is very visible
by the way, show it in different ways
this is better seen as
all these fluctuations happen see
frequency 1163
but it depends on which Conder
hang but the most interesting thing is that I
noticed what is being input
sine wave
that is, it is necessary to achieve somehow here
of this moment so that the sinusoid is
without a sine wave very bad resonances and
on these very harmonics here
get practically nothing
get of course everything is fine but not the one
effect that's so work for today
I will wind the cable and then I will show
further how what such here such
the picture should be visible
that the amplitude is constantly jumping
it's spinning particles current bounces to
at the top this is what we need to do when here
such a picture we will have then
get on 6 i






Ruslan is right, he is correct: "It is necessary first to catch the motion of particles in the coil" this is a critical statement! When you have done this, and followed Ruslans instructions, this will work for all!

Best wishes, stay safe and well in these dire times,
   Chris Sykes

NickZ

   Twist, shake, rattle, and rock and roll.  That's it, and that's all, you have to do. Oh, and don't forget to include the hidden relay.
   No signs of a self running device, only low voltage scope shots without showing the end results.
   I can show the same thing, without the output actually having any OU. I'm not saying that that approach does not work, I'm saying that he or they are not showing it doing so. Why is that? So, Ruslan can charge $5.000 for his deco art...
   I did not just copy the TopRuslan 7 schematic, I made my own version of it. Just like Oleg did with Akulas second device.   So, what's with the relay??? That came later...when he had to shit, or get off the pot.
   NickZ

AlienGrey

Quote from: NickZ on June 20, 2020, 11:04:56 AM
   Twist, shake, rattle, and rock and roll.  That's it, and that's all, you have to do. Oh, and don't forget to include the hidden relay.
   No signs of a self running device, only low voltage scope shots without showing the end results.
   I can show the same thing, without the output actually having any OU. I'm not saying that that approach does not work, I'm saying that he or they are not showing it doing so. Why is that? So, Ruslan can charge $5.000 for his deco art...
   I did not just copy the TopRuslan 7 schematic, I made my own version of it. Just like Oleg did with Akulas second device.   So, what's with the relay??? That came later...when he had to shit, or get off the pot.
   NickZ
The last Ruslan video i saw it had a LOPT with a load of caps and a spark plug wired arse about face.
this device shown looks only half completed.

AG

soliman


greetings to all
this is for those who still have a weak (controlled) kacher.
the mosfet gate voltage must be at least 2.7 volts or something like that,
so it can start on and zero off
but when a voltage is slightly below 2 volts
the mosfet is not completely on. and therefore it is weak (the kacher) in its commutation and many times it overheats, the mosfet.
I have detected that by varying the value of the capacitor that controls the "pulse width" of the gate of the mosfet, good results can be obtained
thus increasing the gate output voltage, mosfet.
1.Disconnect the ground wire and there will be the kacher primary coil wire. I managed to adjust until obtaining 2.7 Volts approx. with oscilloscope and tester connected to the gate mosfet cable.
2. when you have obtained 2.7 volts with the width control
Take it to zero, then plug everything in and test it on by slowly raising your pulse width until the kacher starts working.
be very careful with the ground wire, because when connecting it
could damage or burn the mosfet.
now I have a very good Kacher (in my opinion) synchronized and with good interaction with the earth. I am using kacher 130 volts
if the kacher consumption is very high up to 2.5 amps or more
Consider varying the diameter of the kacher's primary coil.
or the lap number or the position of the laps.
in my case it is 1.5Amps.
Good luck.

AlienGrey

Quote from: soliman on June 21, 2020, 08:03:30 AM
greetings to all
this is for those who still have a weak (controlled) kacher.
the mosfet gate voltage must be at least 2.7 volts or something like that,
so it can start on and zero off
but when a voltage is slightly below 2 volts
the mosfet is not completely on. and therefore it is weak (the kacher) in its commutation and many times it overheats, the mosfet.
I have detected that by varying the value of the capacitor that controls the "pulse width" of the gate of the mosfet, good results can be obtained
thus increasing the gate output voltage, mosfet.
1.Disconnect the ground wire and there will be the kacher primary coil wire. I managed to adjust until obtaining 2.7 Volts approx. with oscilloscope and tester connected to the gate mosfet cable.
2. when you have obtained 2.7 volts with the width control
Take it to zero, then plug everything in and test it on by slowly raising your pulse width until the kacher starts working.
be very careful with the ground wire, because when connecting it
could damage or burn the mosfet.
now I have a very good Kacher (in my opinion) synchronized and with good interaction with the earth. I am using kacher 130 volts
if the kacher consumption is very high up to 2.5 amps or more
Consider varying the diameter of the kacher's primary coil.
or the lap number or the position of the laps.
in my case it is 1.5Amps.
Good luck.
My advice to you is to build a proper katcher driver and use a 50R imedance driver or better still use a PNP and a NPN common emitter driver and use 12 volt logic or rail shift circuit or if your using TTL HC use a Mos Fet driver it not worth the hassel faffing around!
and what is the wave form like your driving ir with ?

AG