New comer needs any and all help

[TinselKoala]

That's a very neat piece of equipment, Tinselkoala. But the SSG's role is
to charge batteries. Where do the leads come from? If you could show
the Bedini circuit adapted, that would be great.

If you take out the neon bulb which is on the output of that circuit and put a diode in series with a battery or capacitor you wish to charge, you will indeed find that you are able to charge the battery quite well, and/or accumulate hundreds of volts of charge on the capacitor. I have another variant sitting on my shelf right now that took its own running battery from 1.26 volts up to about 1.35 volts in a matter of 4 hours, then it started running down slowly.... but it is still powering its LED right now, I think 5 full days after starting it up, and the battery voltage has finally dropped back down to where it was when I started.
Just as with the Bedini charging circuits, the battery eventually runs down.

But this is not the place to talk about those kinds of things yet. We are trying to help jhsmith87 get his circuit doing something... anything.... like running his pulse motor or lighting a neon.

[TinselKoala]

well i am not trying yet to recharge batteries right now, right now i am just trying to make the simplest bedini circuit i can.

i think maybe if some one could explain to me exactly how the transistor is working and what it is doing.
some one said a few post back that i could try a 2n3055 transistor that is self triggering? how is that different than a regular switching transistor?

It's not the transistor that is "self-triggering", it is the circuit as a whole. Mine seem to work in two modes: there is the true triggered mode, where the sense coil picks up a changing magnetic field, which induces a voltage in the coil, which then causes current to flow in the base-emitter loop, and this allows much larger current to flow in the collector-emitter loop. I always get pnp and npn transistors mixed up; one is turned on by the base voltage, the other is turned off by the base voltage. So basically what happens is this: the rotor magnet approaches the coil set and its motion induces a voltage in the sense coil. This causes the base of the transistor to turn on the collector-emitter loop, which causes a big current to flow in the main coil, pulling or pushing the rotor. This big current pulse also affects the sense coil and turns the transistor off, and the magnetic field of the main coil collapses, making a high-voltage spike that can be used to charge a battery, light a high-voltage bulb, or destroy your transistor. So the rotor gets an impulse, enough to turn so that the next magnet pulses the sense coil and the process repeats. This is the true "triggered" mode that will drive your pulse motor.

There is a second mode though, that you probably want to avoid, but it is the one I use  mostly. This is a real self-triggering resonant oscillation that depends mostly on capacitances in the circuit interacting with inductances... in other words it's a feedback squeal, but at very high frequencies. This makes the very highest voltages, which I use for my neons. You don't need this feedback mode, you want to stay in the true triggered mode for your pulse motor.

The reason that the 2n3055 is used in these circuits is because it is tough, it can take the abuse. And they are cheap and can be found in a lot of surplus gear. You want a transistor that can handle a lot of current and doesn't blow easily from high-voltage spikes. The 2n3055 is ideal, and there are also mosfets that will work but they need at least 4 volts on the gate (base) to work, so usually people use the bipolar types for this work. For a small motor you can experiment with the 2n2222a; the same circuit should work with the 2n3055 at higher power levels.

[WilbyInebriated]

a simple way to lay out the circuit on a 1.75" x 1.75" ratshack board. the black lines on top of the board show where the connecting 'traces' are underneath.

edit: to make the 'traces' underneath simply use the unused lengths of wire cut off of the diodes and resistor. or any other appropriate sized piece of wire. solder your connections and bob's your auntie.

2nd edit: i added a yellow box to show you what to omit if you aren't charging batteries. you don't need the white wire either.

[jhsmith87]

thanks for the pic man. honestly i didnt really understand much of what you was talking about in you post before that. i am very new to the world of electronics. so you may have to speak to me about electronics as if you were speaking to a child.. haha.

that pic seems very easy to follow. could you get me one back up a little farther? that way i can see where the wires going out of frame are connected to. also that green bulb that is your neon bulb?
i seen those at ratshack, and i think i have seen them at auto zone, do you know if they are sold at places like auto zone?

also if you will could you show me the pic i just asked for using the diodes as you mentioned instead of the bulb. and if possible take one from above as before, and from each side.
i have been trying my best to get mine to just spin without stopping after about 15 rotations. i have all the transistors you spoke of plus many more.

i know i have what it take to make it now that you said i could use diodes instead of a neon, i should be able to get this thing going.

i got a skate board wheel for a rotor, but realized the "crude rotor" i built before that spins so so so much better, it is a rc car wheel held up by a alum shaft in the middle, a plastic flange at the end sitting on a high performance bearing. all kept in place by sitting the shaft, flange and bearing, down into a plastic coin tube with a coke bottle lid at the bottom. i can give it a light push, go pour me a glass of milk and come back to it still spinning. so i believe that will be my rotor of choice.
only thing is it is quite large in diameter. aprox. 8in. so i am not sure how many magnets i should use.
and in the core of my coil i am using finishing nails, i am not sure if that is iron, but that should work right?

[WilbyInebriated]

thanks for the pic man. honestly i didnt really understand much of what you was talking about in you post before that. i am very new to the world of electronics. so you may have to speak to me about electronics as if you were speaking to a child.. haha.

yeah sometimes a simple pic is worth a thousand words.

that pic seems very easy to follow. could you get me one back up a little farther? that way i can see where the wires going out of frame are connected to.

the wire connections, using your previous a1,a2,b1,b2 schema are as follows:
a1 connects to the top blue wire.
a2 connects to the bottom blue wire (which is the negative 'rail' or 'bus' connection).
b1 connects to the green wire which goes to the positive of the battery.
b2 connects to red wire, the one on the left side of the circuit board.
the black wire connects to the negative of the battery.

also that green bulb that is your neon bulb?
i seen those at ratshack, and i think i have seen them at auto zone, do you know if they are sold at places like auto zone?

yes it is. got it at ratshack, i don't know if autozone has them.

also if you will could you show me the pic i just asked for using the diodes as you mentioned instead of the bulb. and if possible take one from above as before, and from each side.
i have been trying my best to get mine to just spin without stopping after about 15 rotations. i have all the transistors you spoke of plus many more.

i know i have what it take to make it now that you said i could use diodes instead of a neon, i should be able to get this thing going.

you need a neon. diodes cannot be used in place of a neon. sorry i didn't make myself clearer. if you bought diodes (or resistors) at ratshack they will have a inch and a half of wire on each side used to connect them, you don't need all that on a small breadboard so you end up cutting off the excess. that excess can be used to construct the 'traces' underneath the board. you could do the connections on the top of the board as well, it really doesn't matter on this circuit.

i got a skate board wheel for a rotor, but realized the "crude rotor" i built before that spins so so so much better, it is a rc car wheel held up by a alum shaft in the middle, a plastic flange at the end sitting on a high performance bearing. all kept in place by sitting the shaft, flange and bearing, down into a plastic coin tube with a coke bottle lid at the bottom. i can give it a light push, go pour me a glass of milk and come back to it still spinning. so i believe that will be my rotor of choice.
only thing is it is quite large in diameter. aprox. 8in. so i am not sure how many magnets i should use.
and in the core of my coil i am using finishing nails, i am not sure if that is iron, but that should work right?

that sounds like a great rotor... how big are your magnets? if they are the size of the ones i showed on that hard drive platter, i'd say 8 magnets. finishing nails should work.