Friction heater running in my house

[mscoffman]

 It is indeed better to do calorimetery based in a fluid like water than it is to do the
same thing in air. The reason that it is better to convert your unit temporarily from a
furnace into a water heater is because you would like to integrate the heat into a small
volume of fluid, seal it, insulate it, mix it and measure it's net temperature. This is a
much easier thing  to do using a fluid such as water with it's high thermal inertia than
it is for heat in a large volume of air. It's trivial to convert your unit, just put the whole
lower portion into a secondary oil bath and put a copper pipe wrapped in a spiral into
the oil bath. The water then flows through the spiral tube. If the unit is properly insulated
eventual any heat energy input must come out.

---

You asked about the heat analytics equation;

As part of a LENR demonstration I calculated based on immersion element water heaters.

...That 1 Megawatt Continuous of electrical current (=1MWH) will heat 400 gallons of water
...raising the temperature 100 Degrees Fahrenheit above it's beginning temperature
...after one  hour.  These figures have more decimal accuracy then the printed numbers
...implies so I think it is a good way to remember and they can be scaled (down) easily.

Of course a resistive immersion water heater refer to the devices heating elements being
immersed under water in a tank, so any heat energy placed there pretty much has no where
else to go but into the water already inside the heaters.  The thermal momentum of your
converted device conduction maybe won't be as good initially.

---

Finally, Measuring or proving overunity efficiency or not after you have got the above working.

Here is a method that is based on my reading of a LENR  demonstration that can pretty much
be used to prove whether or not your unit produces *overunity* output energy. That is, produces
more heat energy out then resistive water heating.  (This assumes that you are not oxidizing/
scorching any oil, or any seals ect.) Unfortunately this method does not get away from taking a
power reading from your units input motor  - this must still be done accurately.

(1)    Take 2 x identical tankless point-of-use-hot-water-heaters and hook them up to an
         adjustable Variac autotransformer so that input power to the heaters is adjustable. Run the
         utility current  first to a center tapped  120VAC -> 12VAC stepdown power transformer where
         one leg of the input circuit is connected to the secondary center tap. This means that one side
         of the secondary will be running at a 5% higher voltage than line voltage while the other side
         will be running  5% lower than line voltage due to the phase difference of primary and secondary.
         Run one heater on the higher voltage and one on the lower voltage circuit.

    (2) Now run three equal volume water streams one into each heater. These can be taps
          adjusted from an input water manifold or better yet a three stream peristaltic pump.

Now turn on these unit and manually adjust the water heater Variac to keep the output water
temperature of your unit approximately centered between the temperature of the output of
the two water heaters. Record the input power levels and times of the adjustment.

Finally Compare the total amount of energy averaged  (/2) to the water heaters to the total
amount of energy used by your unit's motor. Overunity or not?

:S:MarkSCoffman

[JouleSeeker]

So
set volume of water,
start temp of water,
water temp rise over time and power taken for that rise. ?

So if I use 1 U.S. gallon and the heater runs at around 500 watts, how much temp rise should I get over over what time?
How much does 1 watt heat? or should it heat?

Hi.  Steve J here.

Since input ENERGY is measured in KW-hours, or Watt-secs = Joules, I would stick with International Units, liters, ml, deg-C, joules, KW, etc.  Conversion gallons to liters is easy
1 Gallon (US) = 3.78541178 Liters
1 liter = 1000 ml.

Energy in :   1 W-hour = 3600 Joules.  0.01 KW-h (easy to read on some meters) = 10 W-h = 36,000 J.

Heating water, energy called "Q"

Q (in Joules) = 4.19 x (grams of H2O heated) x (Temp-final - Temp-initial   in deg C),
easy.

If vaporizing water at 100 deg-C,
Qvap = (grams vaporized away) x 2260 J/g
   = (  )g x 0.628 W-h/g

Let me know if you have any questions!
Steve in Missouri

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi folks, Hi olddawgsrule, thanks for interest, will be posting pics and info. as i go.
Just started cutting stationary plates today, using router and guide plate, will post some pics soon, here and at other forum.

Hi oilpiggy, thanks for the reply, your reply here is good enough and thanks for the new video.
Hoping my ideas work out for this heater, we will see.
peace love light
tyson

[LibreEnergia]

So if I use 1 U.S. gallon and the heater runs at around 500 watts, how much temp rise should I get over over what time?
How much does 1 watt heat? or should it heat?

approx. 4.2 joules of energy will raise the temperature of 1 gram of water 1 degree Celsius, and a Watt is 1 joule expended per second.

So,  for  1 US gallon ~ 3785 grams of water requires 3785 * 4.2  =  15897 joules to raise it one degree Celsius.

500 watts is 500 joules expended per second so it will take 15897 / 500 = 31.7 seconds to raise the temperature 1 degree Celsius. (~17.6  seconds per degree Fahrenheit )

The above is only valid for temperature range of liquid water.

[oilpiggy]

Well I have not done the water test but I have done the How much my heat bill is test.

I have been testing this running in my 2010 5th wheel keeping it @ 78F at night, around 450sq. ft., new power grid @ .34 cents a Kilowatt.
The heater is running around 600 watts, for about 12 hours a day run time.
Tell me guys can a 600 watt heater from Wal-Mart heat a 450 sq ft RV? Out side temp at night here has been around 35 to 40F at night.
Lets just say Propane or Old School heater was not working here is the new School. @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBXnnagylls


Thank you
Gabriel Peterson