Has anyone seen Lasersabers new motor runs on 1000uf cap

[mikestocks2006]

It almost seems like if the air drag was eliminated, it could increase in RPM by itself.
He needs to do two tests.

1: Spin it up to about 1500 RPM with no electronics and time the spin down.

2: Make sure the capacitor is dead. Spin it up to the same RPM and then connect the electronics, then time the spin down.


Make sure the capacitor is dead and to connect the electronics after the initial RPM is reached so that all imparted energy is the same in both tests.

Yes, that would be a great informative and simple test to run.
Nice work, good posts.

Thanks
Mike

[DreamThinkBuild]

Hi Magluvin,

So the coil was pushing on the magnets field in the direction of rotor motion, instead of pushing/squashing it against the rotor.

Actually that would be easier.

I would only try after a working model is made and then experiment beyond.

That is the beauty with 3D printing you can keep the original design and just swap out a new rotor or stator with a different angle for testing. At this scale it probably take less than 20 minutes to print the rotor. Keep everything modular like the coils so they can be snapped in and out of the different designs since they take the longest to make. Use friction hold on the magnets so they can be taken out and re-used. Lots of options for experimenting.

Hi LaserSaber,

Just a quick question. What is the infill percent for the rotor?

[conradelektro]

I tried to replicate LaserSaber`s first 3D-printed motor as shown in his video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esphle_MsXI

My version was done by hand (super glue), therefore it is not precisely built.

The axle is a needle which sits in a little hole (in a bolt in the centre of the base) and is held upright by a magnet above its upper end (also like in LaserSaber`s motor). The needle top does not touch the magnet, the distance to the magnet is about 2 mm.

When I blow air at the rotor its starts to turn and turns for about a minute (the needle bearing is that good).

I will use one coil as a trigger coil, see the scope shots over one coil when a magnet passes rather slowly. May be the trigger coil will need a special shape and will have to be placed at a specific location (as a seventh coil). We will see, if all fails I use a Reed switch like LaserSaber.

I will try with the transistor 2SK170 or ALD110800 or ALD110900, because they switch with very low Voltage at the base (zero offset).

The coils are from six 12 V relays, about 90 Ohm DC resistance. The diameter of the base is about 120 mm.

Greetings, Conrad

[Magluvin]

It almost seems like if the air drag was eliminated, it could increase in RPM by itself.
He needs to do two tests.

1: Spin it up to about 1500 RPM with no electronics and time the spin down.

2: Make sure the capacitor is dead. Spin it up to the same RPM and then connect the electronics, then time the spin down.


Make sure the capacitor is dead and to connect the electronics after the initial RPM is reached so that all imparted energy is the same in both tests.

Untill we know more, its hard to say what rpm it can run at. It seems the cap voltage changes with rpms, where maybe 1500 rpms might breach the 16vdc of the cap rating.

What it seems like is he can just spin it up from a stop and 0v, and it will be at whatever voltage associates with the rpm. When he did the speed up with the air from the straw, the voltage went up and rested basically at that rpm level.

Im very eager to see details.    From what I see and think about what I see, this is what everyone should concentrate on once revealed.

Mags

[Magluvin]

I tried to replicate LaserSaber`s first 3D-printed motor as shown in his video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esphle_MsXI

My version was done by hand (super glue), therefore it is not precisely built.

The axle is a needle which sits in a little hole (in a bolt in the centre of the base) and is held upright by a magnet above its upper end (also like in LaserSaber`s motor). The needle top does not touch the magnet, the distance to the magnet is about 2 mm.

When I blow air at the rotor its starts to turn and turns for about a minute (the needle bearing is that good).

I will use one coil as a trigger coil, see the scope shots over one coil when a magnet passes rather slowly. May be the trigger coil will need a special shape and will have to be placed at a specific location (as a seventh coil). We will see, if all fails I use a Reed switch like LaserSaber.

I will try with the transistor 2SK170 or ALD110800 or ALD110900, because they switch with very low Voltage at the base (zero offset).

The coils are from six 12 V relays, about 90 Ohm DC resistance. The diameter of the base is about 120 mm.

Greetings, Conrad

3D printing or not, you did a nice job. 

I think the 12 coils, with less space between them allows for a push and pull between coils, as he stated alternating polarity of the coils.

What relays did you get those coils from?  I like those. 

Mags