Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Lidmotor's Penny circuit help needed.

Started by Dark Alchemist, September 27, 2013, 02:35:45 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

TinselKoala

I don't know how to interpret what you are showing on the scope. You may have to go back to the single-shot search like I showed before, until you have a setting that displays a whole period in one screen, without clipping voltage.

It sounds like your LED model is quite close to what I'm actually getting with these LEDs. How does your sim tell you the LEDs are shining? I mean does it light up the symbol or what?

I don't think the circuit being inside the toroid makes a difference but it's easy enough to check... if this battery ever runs down, I'll separate out the board from the toroid and test again. Since I heated the battery up, it's back up to over 340 mV again... actually just now went down to 339 mV. Still oscillating at 492.3 kHz, with 1420  mV peaks.

Legalizeshemp420

Those little arrow symbols on the LED light up with the color of the LED being tested.



TinselKoala

OK.... that's the envelope of the single pulse. It doesn't repeat this, it just does it one time when you apply power?

I can see that there is more power dissipated in the MPSA18 than in the BC337, certainly. But why don't our waveforms look more similar? I'm pretty burned out tonight, I've been working all afternoon, but I'll do some more testing after I've had some shut-eye.

Sometimes JT circuits need to be kicked into oscillation. You could try putting momentary-contact switches between base and emitter, and between base and collector. Punching the switch for a few microseconds or a millisecond might work. At least the real hardware often works like this, even with big JTs using 2n3055s.


ETA: Can you move your trigger point over to the right a bit? You have it at the leftmost edge of the screen, and this prevents you from seeing what happens in the "pretrigger" time. In most of the shots I've shown, my trigger is set horizontally at screen center.  Try dragging the triangular icon at the top left of the screen, over to the third or fourth horizontal division.

Legalizeshemp420

Quote from: TinselKoala on October 03, 2013, 01:55:09 AM
OK.... that's the envelope of the single pulse. It doesn't repeat this, it just does it one time when you apply power?

I can see that there is more power dissipated in the MPSA18 than in the BC337, certainly. But why don't our waveforms look more similar? I'm pretty burned out tonight, I've been working all afternoon, but I'll do some more testing after I've had some shut-eye.

Sometimes JT circuits need to be kicked into oscillation. You could try putting momentary-contact switches between base and emitter, and between base and collector. Punching the switch for a few microseconds or a millisecond might work. At least the real hardware often works like this, even with big JTs using 2n3055s.


ETA: Can you move your trigger point over to the right a bit? You have it at the leftmost edge of the screen, and this prevents you from seeing what happens in the "pretrigger" time. In most of the shots I've shown, my trigger is set horizontally at screen center.  Try dragging the triangular icon at the top left of the screen, over to the third or fourth horizontal division.
Dragging them has no effect because, unlike a real scope, moving those llines neither increments nor decrements anything.  Sort of worthless in that respect and they don't hide anything either.

WOW, I can't explain it but the kicking worked.  It increased the current it was giving by a LOT too.