Self accelerating reed switch magnet spinner.

[conradelektro]

@synchro1:  Thank you for clarifying further.

I attach a drawing which outlines the experiment I did just now. If you stick two "diametrically magnetised ring magnets" together you get the magnetisation regions (N and S) as I tried to indicate on the drawing, just to check that we agree on that.

I can now easily wind  a bifilar coil around this "tube magnet" (and connect the two wires in series), but it will take a few days because I am working on the drive circuit right now.

I will build the coil in such a way that one can insert two ring magnets, only one ring magnet or none. The length of the coil (axially) will be equal to the length (axially) of the tube magnet (two diametrically magnetised ring magnets stuck together). Is that right? How many turns of wire (a lot or rather a modest amount)?

Concerning the speed up: on the photo you see how I held the "tube magnet". Is this the right way to place it?  At a smaller distance it slows the spin down, farther away it does not change the speed.

I observed an increase of a rattle at a certain distance which I can also feel in my fingers holding the "tube magnet". My guess is that in certain mechanical situations a rattle can increase the spin (by decreasing the friction in the bearings). It did not happen with my contraption but it could have been the case in your test setup. This is of course just a guess, I do not doubt your observations, I am only reporting my little test. I measured the speed with my oscilloscope (in real time).

I am interested in this type of coil because I could feel this "rattle" in my fingers (which means "some strong force"), but the rotor did not slow down (the tub magnet has to be at a certain distance from the spinning magnet). That is interestingly strange. May be this "vibrating magnetic field" induces more current into the bifilar winding than one would expect. We will see, thank you for disclosing your observations I will try to replicate.

Greetings, Conrad

[synchro1]

@Conradelektro,


Quote from Conradelektro:


"I am interested in this type of coil because I could feel this "rattle" in my fingers (which means "some strong force"), but the rotor did not slow down (the tub magnet has to be at a certain distance from the spinning magnet). That is interestingly strange. May be this "vibrating magnetic field" induces more current into the bifilar winding than one would expect. We will see, thank you for disclosing your observations I will try to replicate".

You're right on target! That "rattle effect" generates a tremendous amount of current. I speculate along with you that the magnetic field is vibrating at a much higher frequency then the sensory vibration. You just struck the mother load. Congratulations!


I wrapped my output coil with 32 gauge magnet wire. Very thin lots of turns, but don't over do it. This will generate a great deal of high voltage A.C. current with plenty of amperage too. Wire that to a bridge rectifier and to a capacitor and measure the charge build up in the capacitor. You will go overunity with this kind of output coil, so be prepared for future shock!

[conradelektro]

@Conradelektro,


Quote from Conradelectro:


"I am interested in this type of coil because I could feel this "rattle" in my fingers (which means "some strong force"), but the rotor did not slow down (the tub magnet has to be at a certain distance from the spinning magnet). That is interestingly strange. May be this "vibrating magnetic field" induces more current into the bifilar winding than one would expect. We will see, thank you for disclosing your observations I will try to replicate".

You're right on target! That "rattle effect" generates a tremendous amount of current. I speculate along with you that the magnetic field is vibrating at a much higher frequency then the sensory vibration. You just struck the mother load. Congratulations!

1) Do we agree on the N-S-orientation of the poles in a "tube magnet" consisting of two diametrically magnetised ring magnets?

2) Is my description of the coil right?

3) Do I hold the tube magnet in the right position (approximately, the distance has to be adjusted)?

Please see my last post and photo. Just to check that I understood correctly.

Greetings, Conrad

[synchro1]

@Conradelektro,


Everything's perfect so far! That vibration tells me you found the sweet spot. Find a way to secure the output coil right there, and allow for some adjustment; Also, a high frequency Shottky diode in series with a high voltage capacitor is an even better way to rectify and store the high voltage output from the 32 gauge output coil magnet wire. You have no idea how long it's taken me to get someone to try and replicate this effect.                          

[conradelektro]

@Conradelektro,


Everything's perfect so far! That vibration tells me you found the sweet spot. Find a way to secure the output coil right there, and allow for some adjustment; Also, a high frequency Shottky diode in series with a high voltage capacitor is an even better way to rectify and store the high voltage output from the 32 gauge output coil magnet wire. You have no idea how long it's taken me to get someone to try and replicate this effect.                         

@synchro1: I will try to replicate. I am a slow builder, please be patient and Christmas is coming up.

But be aware that I also feel this "rattling" when holding an ordinary coil with iron core at about the same position. See the attached photo of such ordinary coils (with quite a lot of turns of thin wire and a soft iron core).

I do not know what that means, but this rattling seems to be nothing special by itself. The rattling is not that significant with a coreless coil (the same coreless coil I use as drive and trigger coil), but a coreless coil does not produce much current.

I also know from experience that the rattling becomes even stronger when shorting the generator coil. (But I have not done that test yet with this setup.)

One can speculate that a "tube magnet" inside a bifilar coil does something special and i will try to test that. It seems to be not that difficult and one does not need special materials. So, why not.

The flat pancake type coils shown by Skycollection seem to be much harder to build, so I delay them in favour of your idea.

I do not mind if an idea leads to nowhere, at least we will learn something from the tests.

I have high frequency diodes (UF4007, UF5408, 1N5711, BAT42, RB160L), also high Voltage capacitors, and I only need to rectify a few mA because I only feed a few mA into the drive circuit. The whole point of my "low power drive circuit" is to reduce the power which has to be recovered from a generator coil in order to show OU (if it is indeed possible).

If you look at the photos of my models you see that all my coils are mounted on aluminium L-brackets with slits and can be adjusted lengthwise (distance from spinning magnet) and in height. All bolts for fixing something to the wooden base plate are aluminium or brass. The last two models (the long horizontal and the high vertical) are the culmination of at least 10 magnet spinner attempts. All earlier models (which I posted all somewhere in this forum) have much more flaws than these two last ones. And the drive circuit should also be the lowest power I ever achieved with quite big spinning magnets. So much for bragging.

Greetings, Conrad