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Overunity Machines Forum



Building a self looping "SMOT"

Started by elecar, October 08, 2013, 03:34:35 PM

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0 Members and 23 Guests are viewing this topic.

LibreEnergia

Quote from: ramset on October 18, 2013, 09:01:32 PM
LibraEnergia
Quote
""magnetic attraction will allow it to rise up and then continue down. As it travels past the magnet the normal 'sticky spot' is overcome by the fact that the ball is travelling down an incline.''
------------------------------

Thank you for that observation,you have just described the "Effect" which is at the heart of the self runner.
Attraction and gravity..........
Chet


Unfortunately not. All that has happened is the 'sticky spot' has moved to a new geometric location. A supply of energy is still required to move the ball from that point.


lumen

Quote from: LibreEnergia on October 18, 2013, 05:57:39 PM
Nonsense.

Energy is required to slow a moving object. A force is required and it is exerted over a distance. Since the definition of work is force x distance then work is expended

Consider a rocket traveling to the moon (or anywhere in space) . To slow it down would require energy. We need to produce a force in the opposite direction of travel and that force is exerted over a distance. That is work done on the system.

That's interesting but you are transferring the reference frame to suit your need.
One could have a rope connected to the rocket and slow it down while turning a generator extracting energy from the moving rocket.
In space, the rocket did not know it was moving until you said it was moving from earth, so energy can be extracted now by the rope otherwise, from the frame of the rocket, firing the jets will cause acceleration and will require energy.


JouleSeeker

Quote from: elecar on October 18, 2013, 05:18:57 PM
Hi all, no mystery with the magnets and bars. All  the magnets are the same orientation, N or S does not appear to make any difference.
The bars are actually just some steel brackets and I just play with them for shaping the field. The reason there is one way over to one side is that it was on the board and got attracted to the array when I was taking the picture.
The piece at the front is just aluminum channel and is used to hold the magnets in place, because they are all aligned the same the sides are in repel and the tight fit in the channel stops them flying away from each other.
I do not believe the aluminum channel holding the magnets makes any difference.


This makes sense -- and is helpful to those of us trying to do some kind of replication.  I may be slow these days, but appreciate (both Elecar and Norman) the swift kick in the fanny to get me going.

Norman, you mentioned the odd behavior of your pendulum - swung higher than the starting height?  did I get that right?  Man, I'd like to try that, too, (if I got it right) --  if you could provide any pointers on how you set your magnets relative to the pendulum ball (steel, or a magnet?) to accomplish this trick.  Any info would be helpful and appreciated.

If the "pendulum approach" works, then the "track approach" should work also, and vice versa --- as well as several other innovative approaches using permanent magnets.  I've been thinking of one involving spinning rather than a track...

  This could get fun quick... it is already, to the builder/workers.  Not so much to the sniper/gripers I suppose... but I guess not everyone likes to tinker and test.   :)

norman6538

Jouleseeker said "
Norman, you mentioned the odd behavior of your pendulum - swung higher than the starting height?  did I get that right?

Yes you did. Norman

Man, I'd like to try that, too, (if I got it right) --  if you could provide any pointers on how you set your magnets relative to the pendulum ball (steel, or a magnet?) to accomplish this trick.  Any info would be helpful and appreciated."

There are several tricks to the pendulum and I will enumerate but I suggest that you work on the ball and track because it has more potential.

1. metal under the flat magnets around the clock so that they can be adjusted and respaced easily because it takes lots of tweaking.. and those magnets need to be a bit away so that they will not get stuck. There is one polarity that works better so flip them to find out which one is best. I forget.
2. a slight tilt of the pendulum so that gravity is not too strong.
3. the axle/axis is coat hanger wire sharply pointed and sitting in a centerpunched dimple so that there is almost no friction.
4. a small wooden block on that axle with a metal strip to hold the magnet and since it is off center I used a white paper pointer to show where its gravity center really is when it hangs straight down or else it is visually deceptive.
5. the metal strip has a curved bend toward the drop direction and where that curve starts is a small button neo mounted 90 degrees from the flat magnets around the clock.
6. and some times I doubled up on the higher magnets and played with the spacing so there is no sticky spot.

then I made a stop at 2 oclock and when testing used a stick or something to release it
so I didn't accidently add finger power and deceive myself.

It is very easy to construct ( not more than an hr)  but it will take a lot of patience. I usually work on it for awhile and then walk away and usually when I come back things click better.
You have the advantage of a video showing what it can do. I did not have anything to go on.

Good luck, it will defy current scientific principles because we have all been taught that pendulums cannot go past the level of the dropped point but this one does. So scratch your head and ask where does the force/work come from to make it go higher than its dropped point? That discussion will probably take 20 years.

If you make it and it does not perform then I will make a closeup of the pendulum details so you can better see it but without a photo you might get it to work better than I did if you tinker enough.

Norman

Paul-R

Which post, Norman, gives details of your setup. Your work looks interesting and I would like to have a go.

Paul-R