Reactive Generator Research for everyone to share

[FatBird]

Can somebody Post a Schematic.


In some spots he has 2 Xfmrs & numerous caps & It's hard to see which wire goes where.


Thanks.

[gotoluc]

Thx alot man, quebec is proud of you.

I am trying to extract the essential here, So was there increased mechanical load or not and your input of motor felt nothing ?

Thanks,

Yes, that would be part of the essential. I was also able to drop the power on the input by about half and still output the same amount of power.

Luc

[gotoluc]

Dear gotoluc.

Very well done. Utilisation of reactive power.

One thing puzzles me however. I kept noticing the frequency was showing 60 Hz on your oscilloscope. Can you tell me where that was derived from?

As your drive motor never reached a speed of 3000 RPM (50 Hz single pair pole alternator) or 3600 RPM for 60Hz. I just wondered where this very steady 60 Hz signal was coming from?

Cheers Grum.

The Scope and power meter is only on grid side.

Luc

[gotoluc]

Great work Luc and Happy Birthday!     I picked up a nice 1.5HP motor recently (3 phase) with the idea of doing some experiments along this line.   I think some of this is similar to what has been done with Rotoverters on the EVGray Yahoo group except I believe they are using capacitors to try to make use of reactive power BUT I don't believe I've ever seen anyone using a MOT along with Caps.    I think the combo of the Caps and transformer you have there is a very good way to get the balance needed to make use of reactive power.    While I think I understand your hookup could we get a basic schematic of input and output setups?   Values on parts are not needed as I know that will vary depending on motors and many things.   Just a basic schematic would be great.   
     
   One small item I think may help your results even more.   I suspect you are losing some power with the apparently small gauge clip leads you have feeding the Ryobi motor.   Maybe not much loss but I've made up some of my own clip leads using 12 gauge wire for such purposes.  Excellent video and even with the motor noise I could clearly understand everything you said.   I downloaded it for safe keeping too    

All the details you need are in my second post.

The induction motor circuit is very difficult to tune if you have no prior experience with reactive power tuning. I would recommend to start with the below test as you use the grid and a plug-in watts meter to first learn and you see results fast since I worked out most of this.

Start with a 25 watt 1k Ohm load on the secondary but no caps for now. Then start with about a 10uf Series cap on the primary and connect it to grid. Reduce or raise (if needed) the cap uf value until your power meter is at about 1 watt.  Then check your voltage on the 1K Ohm load and do the math. You should have more power out than in.

After that test, reduce your load resistor by 100 or 200 Ohms at a time and you will see you can add uf value to your primary and still stay at zero watts in. And If you raise the Ohms resistor your cap will need to be less to maintain zero watts.

You will find the ideal resistor and cap value which give you most watts out for zero watts in and you will find that each MOT is different.

After you get the hang of it, you can try working with the motor schematic (on next page) but it takes lots of time to tune to ideal levels.

All the best in your experiments

Luc

[gotoluc]

Can somebody Post a Schematic.


In some spots he has 2 Xfmrs & numerous caps & It's hard to see which wire goes where.


Thanks.

All the details you need are in my second post. Also, read all my replies above.

Luc