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Overunity Machines Forum



Akula0083 30 Watt Self Running Generator.

Started by Grumage, March 06, 2014, 12:29:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

TinselKoala

Quote from: eugene900 on April 02, 2015, 04:45:54 AM
interesting here is tunning resonance-as showed in video. Question is how?- there is not any trimmer pot or capacitor. -as per drawing. So how he change frequency?

Turn count and/or capacitor value C3.


lost_bro

Quote from: TinselKoala on April 02, 2015, 02:09:55 PM
Well, I must say, I'm impressed!

"Objekt 013b"...  I've started making the PC board for it, and I have all the other parts on hand. Except for the C-cores...

Do you think a toroid would work instead?   ;)

Are the "330" capacitors 330 pF? I am assuming they are, from the small size. What is the Diode D1? Looks like  maybe a small Schottky like 1n5711?

Good Day TK

This looks very similar to the device that Delemort made last year sometime using the same MC34063 chip.
He used a pot type core, so maybe that could be substituted?  I guess the $100.00 question is what type of core material is it? ( assuming it's not an April fools joke)
Super simple topology looks like super critical tuning to me...............

The color of the diode almost looks like a *diac*, but that would be too high a voltage range for this design.

take care, peace
lost_bro




Ed morbus

which wire thickness in mm and R1 info please?

TinselKoala

R1 is one ohm, according to the schematic.

A ceramic capacitor marked "330" is usually 33 pF, so that's what I used in my build. I could also try 330 pF if I can find any in my box of goodies.

I used a flyback transformer core and wound the same number of turns as indicated on the schematic, and I used blue LEDs because I'm all out of white ones. I used 1n5817 Schottky for D1.

It works just the same as what is shown in the video... except that it does not keep running when battery is disconnected. Awww.... what a surprise.

I am also getting two cycles of "ring" for each output pulse from the 34063 chip and I _think_ that the video is only showing one, so this probably  means I still need to "tune" something. But the lights dim slightly when I select the "on" position of the switch, just as shown in the video. I'll show waveforms later on. I'm surprised at the peak voltages I'm seeing, over 55 volt peaks on the primary side when 9V input is used.

magpwr

Quote from: TinselKoala on April 02, 2015, 06:06:31 PM
R1 is one ohm, according to the schematic.

A ceramic capacitor marked "330" is usually 33 pF, so that's what I used in my build. I could also try 330 pF if I can find any in my box of goodies.

I used a flyback transformer core and wound the same number of turns as indicated on the schematic, and I used blue LEDs because I'm all out of white ones. I used 1n5817 Schottky for D1.

It works just the same as what is shown in the video... except that it does not keep running when battery is disconnected. Awww.... what a surprise.

I am also getting two cycles of "ring" for each output pulse from the 34063 chip and I _think_ that the video is only showing one, so this probably  means I still need to "tune" something. But the lights dim slightly when I select the "on" position of the switch, just as shown in the video. I'll show waveforms later on. I'm surprised at the peak voltages I'm seeing, over 55 volt peaks on the primary side when 9V input is used.

hi Tinselkoala,

There is a small problem with 1n5817 rated 20volts if the peaks is hovering somewhere below 100volts.

Maybe a UF series diodes of around 100volts ...200volts rating would solve the problem of ou if your lucky on a Good Friday.

Let's hope it was not a Russian version of "DR Lirpa Sloof"